[Jonathan Mac]

Hi everyone,

I wanted to ask if anyone here has any experience using the Nikon ES-2 to "scan" negatives with a DSLR. Particularly if using an APS-C camera, which is what I would have available. I understand it needs a lens with a 62mm filter thread, which would limit me to the Vivitar 55mm f/2.8, but it's a great lens, just not AF. Until now I've used the DA 35mm limited and the AF works well, but I can manage manual focus, especially as (in theory) I wouldn't need to adjust focus from frame to frame.

My big worry is that APS-C will not allow me to get the whole film frame into the shot. For what it is, the ES-2 is extremely expensive (€175 here) but it's a niche item and would simplify things greatly if it works well.

Many thanks for any input anyone can offer.

[stevebrot]

The ES-2 (LINK) is made to work with any of three models of Nikon macro lenses with the lens at minimum focus distance. One of those, the AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8 G is preferred for use with APS-C cameras (the other two being FX and presenting a cropped image). To make the ES-2 work, the lens requirements would be:

• Magnification (1:1.5) to fit the image of the negative to the APS-C frame when fitted natively to the 52mm thread on the ES-2
• Attaining 1:1.5 magnification when used with either of the two 62mm supplied adapters

I think this may be difficult, though the device does have a bit of play to allow for adjusting framing.

Note: I had to edit significantly as I learned more about the ES-2.


Steve

[tuco]

The ES-2 (LINK) is made to work with any of three models of Nikon macro lenses with the lens at minimum focus distance.

Steve

I wonder how effective a 20-25mm extension tube would be using a 50mm lens with this slide copier.

[stevebrot]

I wonder how effective a 20-25mm extension tube would be using a 50mm lens with this slide copier.

That would be hard to say. Matching a 35mm negative to APS-C requires 1:1.5 reproduction ratio and the ES-2 device has a choice of three fixed working distances depending on which lens is used:

AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8 G (native mount to the ES-2)
AF-S Micro NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8G ED (in conjunction with included 62mm Adapter A)
AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D (in conjunction with included 62mm Adapter B)

Based on the instruction manual, it is evident that Nikon intends the DX 40/1.8 for APS-C, though without knowing the working distances for the three supported setups, it would be hard to know in advance what might work for non-Nikon kit.

Link at B&H to ES-2 instruction guide (PDF)


Steve

[photoptimist]

I wonder how effective a 20-25mm extension tube would be using a 50mm lens with this slide copier.

That tube length is a little on the short side for most 50s.

In theory, getting to 1:1.5 magnification requires 33mm of extension. The typical 50 (with a MFD of 0.45 meters) has about 7 mm of throw. Thus, the better option might be about 30mm of tube and focusing the lens somewhere in the middle of its range.

The nastier issue is that the average 50 isn't going to be very sharp at 1:1.5 and field curvature could make corner-to-center-to-corner focusing impossible.

[tuco]

That tube length is a little on the short side for most 50s.

In theory, getting to 1:1.5 magnification requires 33mm of extension. The typical 50 (with a MFD of 0.45 meters) has about 7 mm of throw. Thus, the better option might be about 30mm of tube and focusing the lens somewhere in the middle of its range.

The nastier issue is that the average 50 isn't going to be very sharp at 1:1.5 and field curvature could make corner-to-center-to-corner focusing impossible.

Yeah, for sure not enough.

I just was checking with some extension tubes I have. I'm able to focus on a 35mm slide and fill my camera's frame good enough using a 56mm ext tube stack up with a 58mm lens. That's close to 1:1 plus whatever magnification from the lens.

[Eyewanders]

For all of these reasons above I abandoned 135 slide-copier setups (after chasing them briefly) for a copy-stand and DIY frame mattes with a diffusion layer atop an LED video light source. A lot more versatile (for me) in the end; switching to medium-format (and various sizes therein) is a breeze.

There's also this awesome 3-d carrier plans. I've been using the 35mm version to great success.
120 & 35mm Film DSLR Film Scanning Holder by bradbrok - Thingiverse

[stevebrot]

It might be helpful if we all knew what the ES-2 looks like so that we might understand that getting to 1:1.5 is only half the issue.


https://nikonrumors.com/2018/08/18/first-look-nikon-es-2-film-digitizing-adapter.aspx/

The standoff (working distance) from the filter threads is essentially fixed to three different distances, though with small margin for adjustment. The video below shows the device in use on a FF D850 60mm macro lens with one of two 62mm thread adapters:

You Tube

You Tube

Assembly to the camera starts at about 2min 45sec. It should be pretty clear that there is an additional issue of matching magnification to working distance with whatever lens is used.


Steve

[pres589]

For 175e I would think you could get an LED light box with an appropriately diffuse light output (I like the one I got for about $40 USD) and something like the negative holder that Eyewanders suggested. I've been using a Pacific Imaging negative holder meant for one of their scanners and a home-made tray that gives a single frame mask. Honestly the thing Eyewanders suggested is probably better. The only things you have left to collect is maybe a tripod that allows for the camera to be pointed straight at the floor if you want to work that way, and a remote shutter, assuming you don't have either of these already. A 55mm macro lens is probably going to be fine and you have a lot more adjustment available going this route vs. the Nikon negative attachment.


I found this activity was made much easier and faster using the Lightroom plugin from Negative Lab, found here; Negative Lab Pro

[Eyewanders]

If any are interested... I've been using (and really happy with) this Raleno LED panel as a source (with a couple layers of duralar for added diffusion sometimes).

I also started using Negative Lab Pro a few months ago. Entirely different workflow that took a lot of getting used to but I've since parted ways with both my 135 scanner and flatbed, so it's worked out well.

[stevebrot]

For all of these reasons above I abandoned 135 slide-copier setups (after chasing them briefly) for a copy-stand and DIY frame mattes with a diffusion layer atop an LED video light source. A lot more versatile (for me) in the end; switching to medium-format (and various sizes therein) is a breeze.

There's also this awesome 3-d carrier plans. I've been using the 35mm version to great success.
120 & 35mm Film DSLR Film Scanning Holder by bradbrok - Thingiverse

If any are interested... I've been using (and really happy with) this Raleno LED panel as a source (with a couple layers of duralar for added diffusion sometimes).

I also started using Negative Lab Pro a few months ago. Entirely different workflow that took a lot of getting used to but I've since parted ways with both my 135 scanner and flatbed, so it's worked out well.

Is there any chance you might start a new thread with photos of your setup in full and how the pieces fit together? For example, I suspect that not too many people know what a copy stand is.


Steve

[tuco]

I wonder if a DSLR scanner will be made that comes with its own light source, embedded code, PC software and its own macro lens that will adapt to multiple lens mounts. You use your camera body. Negative to positive conversion features are builtin.

[Not a Number]

See this related thread on the same attachment on a K-1 in crop mode.

You Don't Need A Scanner When You Have A Pentax K-1 - PentaxForums.com

[bjolester]

There is a lot of interesting information about camera scanning, and also the Nikon ES-2 over at rangefinderforum:

Scanning with a digital camera - Rangefinderforum.com

[stevebrot]

I wonder if a DSLR scanner will be made that comes with its own light source, embedded code, PC software and its own macro lens that will adapt to multiple lens mounts. You use your camera body. Negative to positive conversion features are builtin.

The closest I have seen to that would have been from a company that retrofitted converted slide projectors to mate certain dSLR cameras.


Steve