[stevebrot]

1) what is the best way to clean the old goo off before installing the new seals ?

It is done with a small bottle of Ronsonol (cigarette lighter fluid) that you supply and the special bamboo tool that Jon includes with the kit. The lighter fluid softens the old material and the tool is used to scrape the groove free of goo.

2) how can you test what appear to be good seals that may not need replacement?

To test the foam bits, a broken matchstick or similar wood splint is useful. With this you test the springiness of the foam. Any tendency to be sticky or hard or crumbly is an indication of the need to replace. Generally, if one foam is bad, all the foams should be replaced. Felt at the hinge and latch ends tend to be more robust, but if they look rough, it is best to replace them as well.


Steve

[Sam_I_am]

It is done with a small bottle of Ronsonol (cigarette lighter fluid) that you supply and the special bamboo tool that Jon includes with the kit. The lighter fluid softens the old material and the tool is used to scrape the groove free of goo.



To test the foam bits, a broken matchstick or similar wood splint is useful. With this you test the springiness of the foam. Any tendency to be sticky or hard or crumbly is an indication of the need to replace. Generally, if one foam is bad, all the foams should be replaced. Felt at the hinge and latch ends tend to be more robust, but if they look rough, it is best to replace them as well.


Steve

Thanks Steve !

[Vendee]

I have been emailing him at the
jon_goodman at yahoo.com and have had very quick response. I plan on ordering a few kits from him as soon as our finances settle down. (My wife was layed off due to her job not being essential). I have a couple of questions though....

1) what is the best way to clean the old goo off before installing the new seals ?

I use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) but you can use other solvents like lighter fluid. I use a thin wooden scraper or cocktail stick.

2) how can you test what appear to be good seals that may not need replacement?

TIA

The only sure fire way is to put some film through it but to be honest, when I get a new, old film body, I replace the light seals anyway, just for peace of mind.

[Sam_I_am]

I use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) but you can use other solvents like lighter fluid. I use a thin wooden scraper or cocktail stick.



The only sure fire way is to put some film through it but to be honest, when I get a new, old film body, I replace the light seals anyway, just for peace of mind.

Thanks Vendee

On a side note, Jon no longer includes the bamboo stick with his kits.

[Astro-Baby]

Test test for old seals is the go gooey, touch one with a cocktail stick and see if it has a tendency to stick, one of the giveaways is a kind of sticky crud on film door where it mates with the light seal grooves.

Getting the old ones out ..... I usually use a very small jewellers screwdriver thats the same size as the groove in the seal and see if the seal can be scraped out in one go. Sometimes they are so shot once you get some scrape going under the seal the whole thing will tend to scrape out easy. If not I start with a cocktail stick and scrape out as much as I can then apply some IPA and leave it for 10-q
15 minutes. Then come back have another scrape and then use some cotton wool dipped in IPA and press that into the grooves and then force it along with a cocktail stick as a rammer. Keep cleaning until no more black stuff is coming.

Same treatment for hinge end seals.

I also normally use some card cut out to the shape and size of the film rails and tape that down over the shutter to make sure the shutter stays free of IPA amd any crud. I use Tamiya low tack tape for this and tape it around the film area.

When done clean out the film chamber.

Dont use IPA anywhere near the focus screen, the focus screen will be wrecked and even the fumes can do harm. if you can take the focus screen out do it, the prism is tougher than the screen.
Occasionally ai have had to use a small hit of IPA applied to a cotton bud to remove mirror bumpers but its ALWAYS worrying to do.

[Sam_I_am]

Test test for old seals is the go gooey, touch one with a cocktail stick and see if it has a tendency to stick, one of the giveaways is a kind of sticky crud on film door where it mates with the light seal grooves.

Getting the old ones out ..... I usually use a very small jewellers screwdriver thats the same size as the groove in the seal and see if the seal can be scraped out in one go. Sometimes they are so shot once you get some scrape going under the seal the whole thing will tend to scrape out easy. If not I start with a cocktail stick and scrape out as much as I can then apply some IPA and leave it for 10-q
15 minutes. Then come back have another scrape and then use some cotton wool dipped in IPA and press that into the grooves and then force it along with a cocktail stick as a rammer. Keep cleaning until no more black stuff is coming.

Same treatment for hinge end seals.

I also normally use some card cut out to the shape and size of the film rails and tape that down over the shutter to make sure the shutter stays free of IPA amd any crud. I use Tamiya low tack tape for this and tape it around the film area.

When done clean out the film chamber.

Dont use IPA anywhere near the focus screen, the focus screen will be wrecked and even the fumes can do harm. if you can take the focus screen out do it, the prism is tougher than the screen.
Occasionally ai have had to use a small hit of IPA applied to a cotton bud to remove mirror bumpers but its ALWAYS worrying to do.

Thanks to all for the info, it will be very helpful.

[stevebrot]

On a side note, Jon no longer includes the bamboo stick with his kits.
_

Well, that's a shame! It is really quite a simple tool, but probably a bit of a pain to make. It is a square bamboo skewer about 3 1/2" long with one end cut into a blunt wedge and the other into a thin scraper. The blunt wedge works well on felt material and the thin scraper on the light trap groove.

As for IPA vs. Ronsonol and control of the solvent. I have not been impressed with isopropanol for foam removal/cleanout and yes, it will attack some plastics, though not as badly as acetone, MEK, or super glue. Ronsonal, OTOH, comes with a cap having a dripper spout to allow for controlled application, has good solvent action against the foam gunk, and does not evaporate too quickly and will not attack paints or plastic. That said, whatever works for you. As far as controlling the solvent, I generally dribble it down the side of the scraper into the groove with a bit of paper towel pressed into the groove an inch or so further down to wick up the excess. The intent is to only have solvent where you need it and nowhere else.

There are a few other things that may not have been mentioned above that you will need:

• A pair of small forceps or tweezers to place the foam parts and also to nibble off the mirror bumper foam. Curved forceps are well-suited to the latter task.
• A pair of cuticle scissors for trimming loose ends
• An X-Acto knife
• Cotton-tip applicators (not the same as Qtip) are useful for spot placement of solvent, particularly for clean-up of residual mirror foam

Have fun!


Steve

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Last edited by stevebrot; 03-28-2020 at 05:38 PM.

[Sam_I_am]

Well, that's a shame! It is really quite a simple tool, but probably a bit of a pain to make. It is a square bamboo skewer about 3 1/2" long with one end cut into a blunt wedge and the other into a thin scraper. The blunt wedge works well on felt material and the thin scraper on the light trap groove.

As for IPA vs. Ronsonol and control of the solvent. I have not been impressed with isopropanol for foam removal/cleanout and yes, it will attack some plastics, though not as badly as acetone, MEK, or super glue. Ronsonal, OTOH, comes with a cap having a dripper spout to allow for controlled application, has good solvent action against the foam gunk, and does not evaporate too quickly and will not attack paints or plastic. That said, whatever works for you. As far as controlling the solvent, I generally dribble it down the side of the scraper into the groove with a bit of paper towel pressed into the groove an inch or so further down to wick up the excess. The intent is to only have solvent where you need it and nowhere else.

There are a few other things that may not have been mentioned above that you will need:

• A pair of small forceps or tweezers to place the foam parts and also to nibble off the mirror bumper foam. Curved forceps are well-suited to the latter task.
• A pair of cuticle scissors for trimming loose ends
• An X-Acto knife
• Cotton-tip applicators (not the same as Qtip) are useful for spot placement of solvent, particularly for clean-up of residual mirror foam

Have fun!


Steve

Thanks Steve!

As Jon explained it to me, the USPS did not like the bamboo sticks anymore.