[brewmaster15]

So as I am working on a neglected k1000 I picked up for a few bucks on CL...I am remembering why I really dont like replacing light seals on film cameras! I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck with or knows of a more modern hack for light seals than the old fashioned foam based ones. It would seem that since all those old manual film cameras came out that new materials would be availible.. I could see something like a semi liquid that cures into a seal.?

Probably not , still thought I would ask. I have alot of cameras here I would like to put back into service .. would love to send them to someone like Eric for a complete redo but thats not financially feasible... so diy where I can.

Al

[Astro-Baby]

Contact Jon Goodman......his light seals are a doddle to fit. The door channels go in easy as pie with Jons kits and those are usually the hellish ones.....apart from Olympus OM1 and Minolta C series where the mirror bumpers are a nightmare to get in.

I have a couple of old German cameras as they never used foam, they all seem to use felt and something that resembles paracord for the door channels. Whatever it is its very long lasting as after 60 years its still fine.

[brewmaster15]

Contact Jon Goodman......his light seals are a doddle to fit. The door channels go in easy as pie with Jons kits and those are usually the hellish ones.....apart from Olympus OM1 and Minolta C series where the mirror bumpers are a nightmare to get in.

I have a couple of old German cameras as they never used foam, they all seem to use felt and something that resembles paracord for the door channels. Whatever it is its very long lasting as after 60 years its still fine.

thanks for the tip... if you have Jon's Contact info and could pm it to me, I'd appreciate it!
al

[Kobayashi.K]

It's an illusion to think you can cure existing old seals because they are just a sticky goo or dust. Moreover most seals have only a cross section of 2x2mm (on the door) and they are compressed to 50% or more when the door is closed. So, small chance you can find a material other than foam that can replicate that.

Notice there are not only seals on the door, but also in the mirror box to dampen the mirror when it goes up, and inside the body on various places depending on the model.

When you replace them by neoprene cell-rubber seals they will last another 30 years. The seals are mounted with thin double sided tape or sometimes with cyanoacrylate (super glue) when they are very small.

If you want to do this thoroughly, replacing all these seals, a CLA must be done by an expert.

[brewmaster15]

It's an illusion to think you can cure existing old seals because they are just a sticky goo or dust. Moreover most seals have only a cross section of 2x2mm (on the door) and they are compressed to 50% or more when the door is closed. So, small chance you can find a material other than foam that can replicate that.

Notice there are not only seals on the door, but also in the mirror box to dampen the mirror when it goes up, and inside the body on various places depending on the model.

When you replace them by neoprene cell-rubber seals they will last another 30 years. The seals are mounted with thin double sided tape or sometimes with cyanoacrylate (super glue) when they are very small.

If you want to do this thoroughly, replacing all these seals, a CLA must be done by an expert.

Thank you for your opinion but I disagree on a CLA needing to be done by an expert just to replace light seals. Sure it wouldnt hurt to have it done by expert but its not needed to replace light seals in most/all? cases.Replacement seals and foam is availible... and anyone with a bit of patience and basic diy skills can do it.

I'm not under any illusion and never said you could cure old seals , not sure where you got that from... just to clarify things for you. I asked if there was improved technology and materials since these old camera's were made.. its not an unrealistic question.

Thank you.

[Kobayashi.K]

Thank you for your opinion but I disagree on a CLA needing to be done by an expert just to replace light seals. Sure it wouldnt hurt to have it done by expert but its not needed to replace light seals in most/all? cases.Replacement seals and foam is availible... and anyone with a bit of patience and basic diy skills can do it.

I'm not under any illusion and never said you could cure old seals , not sure where you got that from... just to clarify things for you. I asked if there was improved technology and materials since these old camera's were made.. its not an unrealistic question.

Thank you.

You are saying "I could see something like a semi liquid that cures into a seal", but obviously I am misinterpreting that.

I have replaced the seals on most of my film cameras myself, including those for the mirror. But if you want to replace the seals or foam inside the camera, for which the camera must be disassembled, I would recommend sending it to a specialist. That's what I wanted to say.

[brewmaster15]

You are saying "I could see something like a semi liquid that cures into a seal", but obviously I am misinterpreting that.

I have replaced the seals on most of my film cameras myself, including those for the mirror. But if you want to replace the seals or foam inside the camera, for which the camera must be disassembled, I would recommend sending it to a specialist. That's what I wanted to say.

Thanks for clarifying that. I Appreciate it.
AL

[pentageek]

I can recommend aki-asahi.com - I have used their seals in LX and in Mamiya RB.

[Astro-Baby]

Jons seals are different, at least for the door seals. The door channels are normally the headache to get in. Jons ones use a different type of rubber. Theres no glue, you just press the rubber in to place and after a few minutes it expands out and wedges itself in. Its quite forgiving and if you find its become twisted or needs repositioning you can fish it back out while you are working it in. You have to be quick at getting it out before it settles so maximum attention while you are doing it but its miles better than messing with glued strips especially on Pentax K series where the top plate partially obscures the top door channel seal. Its also a load easier on cameras that have angles in the door seals to go round stuff like finders and film cartidge chambers like some do.

Be wary of ebay sellers, when I didnt know better I bought a KX kit of seals from ebay, the seals went bad and turned into goo in a vew months and almost destroyed the focus screen in the process, lucky for me I spotted the problem very quickly. Saving maybe £4 wouldnt have seemed a great deal if it ended up costing £50 - £100 for repairs.

[Sam_I_am]

thanks for the tip... if you have Jon's Contact info and could pm it to me, I'd appreciate it!
al

I would also like that info.

TIA,
Sam

[Astro-Baby]

Hi, soz am mobile and dont have details to hand but if you do a search on the forum you will find jons email addy

---------- Post added 03-24-20 at 12:03 PM ----------

#7

Hey there, I've just dug up the email address I used. Here it is: JGood21967 at aol.com

Replace the at with a @ and take out sspaces and that should work

This is Jon Goodman's email address.

[c.a.m]

Hey there, I've just dug up the email address I used. Here it is: JGood21967 at aol.comReplace the at with a @ and take out sspaces and that should workThis is Jon Goodman's email address.

In my communication with Jon in November 2018, he used the following address:

jon_goodman at yahoo.com

[Sam_I_am]

Thanks, I will reach out to him.

[stevebrot]

It's an illusion to think you can cure existing old seals because they are just a sticky goo or dust. Moreover most seals have only a cross section of 2x2mm (on the door) and they are compressed to 50% or more when the door is closed. So, small chance you can find a material other than foam that can replicate that.

Notice there are not only seals on the door, but also in the mirror box to dampen the mirror when it goes up, and inside the body on various places depending on the model.

When you replace them by neoprene cell-rubber seals they will last another 30 years. The seals are mounted with thin double sided tape or sometimes with cyanoacrylate (super glue) when they are very small.

If you want to do this thoroughly, replacing all these seals, a CLA must be done by an expert.

Two points:

1. On the matter of the material having to be foam. I have two Pentax bodies and a Mamiya, all three of which had the film door seals replaced with doped twine as part of a CLA performed by factory-trained techs (both Asahi Pentax and Mamiya/Sekor). I agree, however, that a liquid solution is a poor idea.
2. In regards to replacement requiring a CLA or the hands of an expert. That misconception might be due to lack of experience with Jon Goodman's kits. They are specific to model and include all film chamber seals as well as mirror bumper, along with detailed instructions and illustrations. With the exception of the main light traps for the film door, the materials are the same as or better than the original. The light trap groove materials are a unique closed-cell foam, are custom cut for the groove width and depth, and are applied without adhesive by pressing them flat into the groove. What usually is the most vexing part of the seal replacement take 15-20 minutes the first time one does it and less than ten minutes if one has worked with them before. The last body I did (Minolta SRT-101) was a little more difficult than some due to a recessed mirror bumper, but I accomplished full seal/bumper replacement in less than 40 minutes including removal of the old materials.

The next body you do, it might be a treat to try one of Jon's kits. He has an associate in the U.K. to handle sales in Europe and generally sells his kits for a little more than $10 USD. I have used his kits on eight bodies and cut my own on one more. I won't cut my own again...not cost or time effective.


Steve

[Sam_I_am]

I have been emailing him at the
jon_goodman at yahoo.com and have had very quick response. I plan on ordering a few kits from him as soon as our finances settle down. (My wife was layed off due to her job not being essential). I have a couple of questions though....

1) what is the best way to clean the old goo off before installing the new seals ?

2) how can you test what appear to be good seals that may not need replacement?

TIA