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05-04-2020, 08:01 AM   #16
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yeah I agree. Ill put an ilford xp2 with 24 shots and take a walk. hopefully it was something funky...
Btw, is there any diagram on how to get the meter going? one of the cables needs to be reattached, believe the black one. needle moves

Thx for the help!

05-04-2020, 10:30 AM - 1 Like   #17
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Are you using a radioactive lens> Just kidding....

A hole in the shutter would be the most likely explanation but it is odd that the night shot should show the same aberration. It would seem to me that the mirror would block much of the light even if light entered into the lens before and after the frame was in the film aperture.

I would try checking the shutter again in a dark room using a bright torch / flashlight to backlight the shutter.

BTW: where in the roll were the spots? Begging, middle, end or all over?

Last edited by Not a Number; 05-04-2020 at 10:36 AM.
05-04-2020, 11:49 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by LeGoGubbe Quote
Yes I checked both against the window to easily see. But nothing.
QuoteOriginally posted by ChristianRock Quote
Might be worth putting another roll in it, maybe a cheap one, just to make sure it wasn't the developer doing something funky...
Between shots are you putting the lens cap on? Between shots, is it possible that sunlight is entering the viewfinder in the back of the camera?

I am fairly certain it is a light leak. Even with the lens off and the mirror up and pointing the camera at the sun, you may not see the leak.

When you do the second roll test, you will want to test the roll for the front or first curtain, and for the rear or second curtain. For all the shots, try to shoot low key subjects that are relatively mid tone to dark.

a) For the first/front curtain test, after each shot, immediately advance the film and then let the camera sit with the lens without a cap towards sunlight for at least 20 minutes.

b) After perhaps doing this twice, you could shoot in rapid sequence; each shot only a few seconds or a minute apart.

c) For the second/rear curtain test, repeat as above, but do not advance the film between shots. Repeat at least one time.

d) Now try both techniques with the lens cap on between shots.

e) Now try both techniques with sunlight intentionally hitting the rear viewfinder window for at least 20 minutes.

Take good notes so that when you get the negs back, you can identify the cause.

I could also imagine on an older camera areas under the mirror or in the dark box that could no longer be matte black creating unwanted reflection of light during the exposure, but that doesn't make much sense for your night shots.

IF it is a leak in the first/front curtain, then just get into the habit of never advancing the film until you're just about to shoot.
IF it is a leak in the rear/second curtain, then just get into the habit of always advancing the film after shooting.
IF the problem goes away with a lens cap, then problem solved.
IF the problem only happens when the viewfinder is exposed to a good dose of sunlight, then always store your camera in a camera bag or use black camera tape or anything as a viewfinder cap while not shooting.

In general, fixing a shutter curtain is more expensive than buying a replacement camera.
05-04-2020, 12:34 PM - 1 Like   #19
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that sounds like a good plan, I might even sacrifice a 24-roll, Im PRETTY sure theres something funky with the front curtain after looking carefully. but no light leaks, or at least that I could see. its time to take notes and just see what happens.
This might even be fun

05-04-2020, 02:02 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by LeGoGubbe Quote
No, handheld with at least 1/125.
Interesting. I've only ever seen something like that with a viewfinder light leak, but only with long exposures.
05-04-2020, 06:53 PM - 1 Like   #21
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Just a thought, if it is always at the same height, but not the same position across the negative, could it be a light leak through the film door by the hinge, there is supposed to be a full length of felt strip by the hinge. This might explain why it is there only some of the time: how quickly you go to the next shot, your hand covering the leak area, and as the film gets wound on the spool, the diameter changes and hence not always the same spot on the negative gets hit.
05-04-2020, 10:20 PM   #22
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Maybe a messed up rivet that holds the pressure plate in?

05-07-2020, 07:39 AM   #23
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After looking, a more likely suspect would be a missing or loose door hinge screw. If the leather is loose you could get light in there that would be in the right place.
05-07-2020, 07:52 AM   #24
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That looks like static electricity to me.
Were the affected frames spaced one or two apart and each showing less effect than the previous?
05-09-2020, 12:51 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxus Quote
After looking, a more likely suspect would be a missing or loose door hinge screw. If the leather is loose you could get light in there that would be in the right place.
HMM! im missind the black covers on the front. could it be that?
05-09-2020, 01:41 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by LeGoGubbe Quote
HMM! im missind the black covers on the front. could it be that?
Can you take a photo of what is missing? The black covers on the front....as in the black leatherette between the bottom base plate and the top of the camera?
05-09-2020, 02:08 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by LeGoGubbe Quote
HMM! im missind the black covers on the front. could it be that?
There are 5 screws under the leatherette, several of which have adjustable bushings to regulate the flange focal distance. Its conceivable that even if those screws are tight, light might get past those adjustable bushings and onto the film. If you can't refit the leatherette then cover those screws up with black tape and try again.
05-09-2020, 06:00 AM   #28
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If its the leatherette that will explain a lot. Underneath most cameras there are all kinds of joins and adjusters and stuff like the self timer gubbins ....I know the K1000 lacks a self timer but there will still be other screws and stuff which probably hold the mirror box on and so forth. Could well be the problem as the leatherette is usually a light seal for all the cracks and joins in the case.
05-18-2020, 12:44 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Astro-Baby Quote
If its the leatherette that will explain a lot. Underneath most cameras there are all kinds of joins and adjusters and stuff like the self timer gubbins ....I know the K1000 lacks a self timer but there will still be other screws and stuff which probably hold the mirror box on and so forth. Could well be the problem as the leatherette is usually a light seal for all the cracks and joins in the case.
Pentax reverse wind on to take up spool a leak via eg door hinge could produce that signature!
05-27-2020, 08:36 AM   #30
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This is a pic I just took. Havent been with time to shoot but im pretty sure the cover is the issue as it would explain the round marks on the pics. Good old duct tape should tale care of that.
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