[Cideway]

I like the look and feel of the Ilford FP4 125 ISO and HP5 400 ISO films



Shot with my Z1 FA 50 f1.4, on Ilford HP5

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Last edited by Cideway; 03-18-2007 at 11:19 AM.

[GaryML]

Other have mentioned Kodak T-Max. It is available in ISO 100 (TMX), 400 (TMY) and 3200 (TMZ). TMX has very fine grain and I like it for outdoor, landscape shots. TMY is good for indoor shots and can easily be exposed at 800 ISO if necessary without push processing. I like it better than Tri-X due to the superior grain.

TMZ is THE low-light champ, which can be exposed at 1600 or 3200 with normal processing, or push-processed 2 or 3 stops with usable results. In my LX camera (which has superior low-light metering) and with a fast lens, you can shoot in almost total darkness with available light and still get usable shots. This combo will outperform just about anything else on the market (new or used, film or digital) for low-light, non-flash photography.

The B&W films that use C-41 process are very convenient if you don't have conventional B&W processing available. They do seem to have a different look which you may like or dislike. Keep in mind that the final product (processed negatives) will have dye instead of silver, so they may not be as stable in long term storage. Properly processed silver B&W negatives and prints (on paper w/o plastic coating) tend to be more stable over time as compared to typical color films and prints.

[scribble]

Im going on a limb here, and saying Neopan 1600. I love this film... It has great shadow detail, albiet the midtones can fall off a bit.

But as for a slower film, Tri-X is pretty good, but again, I stick toward Fuji with Acros 100. Midtones to die for, esp. if processed in Microdol X, or even a 1/450 Rodinal soup.

[Kaimarx]

I see your using 100 asa...quite a few 400's have been recommended but if you like 100 i would suggest ilford delta 100. Has a smooth, even tonal look if dont like too much grain in your prints, great for studio as well.

If you can get your hands on small peice of software called "Exposure" by Alienware it simulates the look of different types of film including ones that aren't in production anymore! (Ektachrome EES anyone?)

[PeterAM]

I mostly stopped shooting film when I dismantled my darkroom a few years ago. After having a few rolls processed at various "quick" processing places and then scanning the negatives, I've decided never to do that again. Unless you can find one that constantly cleans the equipment and is very careful, the results are awful. When I worked in the city, I sometimes had film processed by the Time-Life lab (my office was across the street at that time) and sometimes at Duggal. I've been away from film long enough that I am not familiar with what is currently available.
This thread is interesting for me because I'm probably going to be shooting some medium format film in the near future. Am also in need of a recommendation for film processing in Westchester County, if anyone can give one.

[Bophoto]

A sharp film is Ilford Delta 100.

[kometman]

I've used Kodak BW400CN the local Walgreens sells a four pack. It gives the mid-tones a antique greenish color and the highlights a very faint van dyke brown color. Very striking.

[Jüri]

Just avoid that cheap awful Lucky film and you'll be fine. According to my experience it's nice to have an ISO 100 film for usual daylight outdoor photos and an ISO 400 film that can be pushed for low light conditions. And two separate cameras for the same purpose, since these days film cameras are cheap anyway.

[Kaufeetime]

You have several film suggestions and I can’t add much to that conversation. I will suggest purchase a #8 yellow filter the 'standard correction filter'. I tend to use #9 or 11 and special occasion a #16 Yellow-Orange. An excellent place to purchase your filters is at established privately owned camera stores. There is a good chance they have a bunch of used or new-old stock they would sell cheap. While you are there buy some film give them your business help keep the doors open. Using filters makes a big difference, do a little research on the net. This site list more filters than most of us will ever use Kodak Technical Data .

[kometman]

That was a good resource link, thanks for sharing. Though

An excellent place to purchase your filters is at established privately owned camera stores.

sadly is not an option for some of us as such stores have pulled up stakes.