[Jason 407]

I just took my first 35mm picture in many years, and my first on an SLR this afternoon. I received my new-to-me SV in the mail from MightyMike, and I’m in love with this thing. I have a couple of cheap rolls of Kodak ultramax to run through it. What advice would you give me, a new film shooter? I have a 28, 50, and 200mm lens for the camera, plus a gorgeous 17mm fisheye that I just bought. Film? Should I think about developing myself? What lenses are must haves in m42?

I’m excited about this.

Attached Images

 

[Moe49]

Film ?
If you like color: Kodak Ektar 100

I took this photo with my SV (thanks Colton, again!), SMC Takumar 28mm, and Ektar 100

[Jason 407]

Film ?
If you like color: Kodak Ektar 100

I took this photo with my SV (thanks Colton, again!), SMC Takumar 28mm, and Ektar 100

Nice shot! I like the blues in that. I was planning to try some Portra next, but maybe I’ll give Ektar a shot. I don’t know where I come down on the color/b&w divide yet.

[FozzFoster]

Which 50mm did you get? I might suggest a Helios 44-2 58mm f/2!
I loved my SV - very slick camera!
Also, a S-M-C 100mm f/4 marco might be a good addition to this kit!

---

Last edited by FozzFoster; 07-10-2020 at 05:20 PM.

[TwoUptons]

I have a 35mm f2.0 that is great fun with my H1a.

I also really like my 120mm f2.8. A weird length, but it does good work...

I have a 300mm f6.3 that’s just weird, as I’m used to more modern lenses, but it’s compact for a 300 and sharp.

And that B25 photo is exactly what Ektar was made for.

-Eric

[nickthetasmaniac]

The SV is a wonderful camera, one of the classiest all mechanical SLRs around in my view.

A general tip for C41 films - meter and expose for the shadows. Most colour negative films have heaps of highlight latitude, but the shadows go muddy and ugly pretty quick. So, look after the shadows and the highlights will look after themselves.

Of course, this isn’t the case for slide film, and some colour neg stocks like Ektar are more demanding on correct exposure.

**Also, there’s some lens compatibility issues with S-series bodies, including the SV. What colour is the ‘R’ on the rewind lever, and can you take a photo of the aperture pressure plate (just inside the mount, below the mirror)?

[Jason 407]

The SV is a wonderful camera, one of the classiest all mechanical SLRs around in my view.

A general tip for C41 films - meter and expose for the shadows. Most colour negative films have heaps of highlight latitude, but the shadows go muddy and ugly pretty quick. So, look after the shadows and the highlights will look after themselves.

Of course, this isn’t the case for slide film, and some colour neg stocks like Ektar are more demanding on correct exposure.

**Also, there’s some lens compatibility issues with S-series bodies, including the SV. What colour is the ‘R’ on the rewind lever, and can you take a photo of the aperture pressure plate (just inside the mount, below the mirror)?

I have read some about the compatibility issues. This one has the green R. I am planning to keep the questionable lenses away. What can you tell from a pic of the inside? I could take one later.

---------- Post added 07-10-20 at 09:23 PM ----------

Which 50mm did you get? I might suggest a Helios 44-2 58mm f/2!
I loved my SV - very slick camera!
Also, a S-M-C 100mm f/4 marco might be a good addition to this kit!

Maybe I will look for the macro. I haven’t used one very much, but why not start? I also think I want to look for the Helios. I’ve seen a lot of good shots from them.

The 50 is a Super-Tak 1.4. Haven’t used it yet. Looking forward to trying it out some.

---------- Post added 07-10-20 at 09:26 PM ----------

I have a 35mm f2.0 that is great fun with my H1a.

I also really like my 120mm f2.8. A weird length, but it does good work...

I have a 300mm f6.3 that’s just weird, as I’m used to more modern lenses, but it’s compact for a 300 and sharp.

And that B25 photo is exactly what Ektar was made for.

-Eric

Somehow I have managed not to buy a single 35mm lens, in K mount nor m42. I’ve heard the takumar 35 3.5 is nice, but I think I really want a faster one. The f2 might be the ticket.

[ismaelg]

Hi,

The SV is my favorite vintage Pentax camera of that era. It is jewelry that takes pictures. The coolest timer ever on a camera.
If yours has the green R, then it is an earlier model. The orange R is the later. Of course, the knob could have been replaced at some point in its almost 60 year history. The issue is that some lenses like the Super Tak 50-1.4 will protrude enough into the camera that the mirror can hit it when the lens is set at infinity.

Thanks,

[nickthetasmaniac]

I have read some about the compatibility issues. This one has the green R. I am planning to keep the questionable lenses away. What can you tell from a pic of the inside? I could take one later.[COLOR="Silver"]

The plate inside the mount at the bottom is the mechanism to depress the lens pin and close the aperture. On later bodies this was changed to a more curved design to clear the rear element on the Super Tak 50/f1.4.

I have two SVs, both red ‘R’, but with two different plate designs. I’ve had issues with the earlier design jamming on some lenses.

I’ll try and get a photo of the difference when I get home.

If yours is a green R it most likely is NOT compatible with the S-T 50/f1.4.

[ismaelg]

So the issue is not with the mirror, but the plate that pushes the pin. Now it makes sense.
Thanks for the clarification.

[stevebrot]

So the issue is not with the mirror, but the plate that pushes the pin. Now it makes sense.
Thanks for the clarification.

Yep...this is apparent when comparing photos down the throat of both versions.


Steve

[stevebrot]

Which 50mm did you get? I might suggest a Helios 44-2 58mm f/2!

I am planning to keep the questionable lenses away.

You might want to avoid the Helios 44 58/2.0 variants. The guard for the rear element is pretty prominent and is a potential source of fouling on a green-R SV since it is wide across and extends deep into the mirror box.

For the green-R lens there are two significant points of possible fouling to check before using a new-to-you lens.

1. The aperture actuator "flipper"
2. The light baffle at the top across the opening of the mirror box

A red-R SV will clear most lenses at the actuator, but may still have a problem with the light baffle.

To test mirror box clearance on an SV:

1. Turn the focus ring until the lens is at minimum focus distance and set the Auto/Manual switch in the Auto position
2. Turn the lens slowly onto the camera, being aware of any resistance or binding. Back off immediately if such is felt.
3. Put the shutter dial on the "T" position and cock the shutter
4. Open the back of the camera and press the shutter release. This should open the shutter and hold it open until you move the shutter dial off the "T" position.
5. You should be able to see the mirror box, the mirror fully nested against the focus screen at the top and the rear of the lens with the rear element some distance away from mount area. The aperture actuator flipper will be in the actuation position (flipped forward).
6. While watching from the rear, slowly turn the focus ring away from minimum focus distance and towards infinity. The rear element should move back toward the opening of the mirror box.

   If any part of the lens rear element or its guard contacts the aperture actuator flipper, the surface of the baffle to the top or anything else inside the the mirror box, immediately stop and reverse direction with the focus ring back to minimum focus distance.
   
   If everything is clear when you achieve the infinity stop on the lens, you are are good to go; the lens passes.

7. Move the shutter dial from the "T" position to the 1000 mark to close the shutter
8. Close the camera back. If the lens passed, you can leave in on the camera if you wish. If it failed the test, remove it from the camera and tape a note to the rear cap that it is not safe on your SV.

The process is easier than it sounds and sort of cool to do.


Steve

[nickthetasmaniac]

So the issue is not with the mirror, but the plate that pushes the pin. Now it makes sense.
Thanks for the clarification.

Yep...this is apparent when comparing photos down the throat of both versions.


Steve

Yep, as Steve says, it's clear when compared side by side.


Early


Late

[Ray-uk]

The above pictures also seem to apply to the S1a because I have both early and late models which show the same differences to the actuating lever.

[nickthetasmaniac]

The above pictures also seem to apply to the S1a because I have both early and late models which show the same differences to the actuating lever.

Makes sense, given the S1a is basically a SV with the self timer removed.