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11-23-2020, 12:24 AM   #16
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You mentioned before that you use a wire wheel in your dremel to clean the metal. Do you use brass or steel?

11-24-2020, 06:48 AM - 1 Like   #17
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Hello,


QuoteOriginally posted by Sam_I_am Quote
You mentioned before that you use a wire wheel in your dremel to clean the metal. Do you use brass or steel?
Hi Sam, it is a steel wire brush.



The top cover received much needed love. It cleaned out nicely. Some minor pitting (little black dots), some scratches and a few nicks, but looking good overall. Not bad for about 55 years old!









Here is an optical illusion:
This is the inside of the top cover. It looks like protruding towards you but it is actually going in away from you



Thanks,
11-25-2020, 04:16 PM - 1 Like   #18
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Nice work, Ismael! And thanks for sharing your great work.

The S2 series is one of my favorit series to collect and learn about. The H2 designation was found on cameras marked as Asahi Pentax, Asahiflex H2 and Penta Asahiflex H2 as well as Honeywell Heiland Pentax. I.e. you will find both Asahi Pentax S2 as well as Asahi Pentax H2.

The H3 was also marked Honeywell Heiland, while H1, H3v and H1a were marked Honeywell Pentax.
11-25-2020, 06:47 PM - 3 Likes   #19
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Sneak peek before the reveal...



Thanks,

11-25-2020, 10:36 PM   #20
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^^^ nice preview shot.

Question about the top covers....I acquired a Sportmatic SP from an auction and although the meter doesn't work right, it actually is in pretty good shape except for a little area of what looks like corrosion near the Pentax name. I tried rubbing some metal polish but thought I was making it worse.
Is the metal plated or coated such that you could break through?
If you are working on a bad spot could you risk polishing that part of the metal such that it stands out from the rest which is less polished and more matte or satin type finish?
11-26-2020, 05:26 AM - 1 Like   #21
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Hello,

The covers are plated brass. If you are too aggressive with a metal polish you will remove the plating exposing the brass. Similar to what you see in high wear areas. That's what's called brassing.
My suggestion for corrosion is to use white vinegar on a cotton swab, followed by IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol). If there is pitting, there is little than can be done short of replating the brass. But it can be cleaned to be less noticeable.

Thanks!

---------- Post added 11-26-20 at 08:55 AM ----------

Happy Thanksgiving!

Ladies and gentlemen, SHE IS DONE!

The Good: Everything seems to be working properly and she looks gorgeous! The wear marks and scratches add a nice character.
The leatherette came out very nicely. A dream compared to the SRT100 nightmare
It was properly cleaned before been reattached.
Everything was cleaned and or polished inside and out!

The not so good: I'm nitpicking here, but there is some minor dust between the prism and the focusing screen. Not a big deal. But I could never take the prism out. The hold down screws are seized. I tried everything from PB Blaster to brute force, but 2 of the 3 screws never moved. Since they are slotted, not cross type, it is harder to get a good grip. I even had a driver slipped and hit the prism. Scary moment as I thought I had damaged it. At the end the screws started stripping and deforming so I conceded before making it worst. Not a big deal in the grand scheme of things but I would have loved to have a perfectly cleaned focusing screen, which is still nice and clear.

Without further ado, here she is!















It looks nice, but does it work?

Yeah, I need to work on my video capabilities. Mediocre audio and so-so video quality. Sorry for that.

I'll start another thread comparing it to another H1a. Early vs Late model.
I'm happy! What do you think?

Thanks,
11-26-2020, 09:36 AM   #22
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Big improvement over what you started with.

So what are you going to show us next?
11-26-2020, 05:06 PM   #23
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Thank you Sam!
I'll take a look at the meter that came with it. I've never worked on those so it will be a learning experience.


Thanks,

*EDIT* Poll: Should I open a separate thread for the meter or keep it here? What do you think?


Last edited by ismaelg; 11-26-2020 at 05:39 PM.
11-26-2020, 07:53 PM   #24
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Thanks for the advice about the top cover.

Beautiful work again. Looks wonderful. You mentioned the meter....is it not working? Seems like so many of the Spotmatics I see have non functioning meters. I always assumed that you canít get part except to steal them from working cameras which are becoming less common.
11-26-2020, 08:30 PM - 3 Likes   #25
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Hello,

Now that the camera is done, I can concentrate on the meter.

These cameras had no internal meters. The meter was an external clip-on accessory.

So this camera came with the external Type 2 (Type 1 was round) clip on external meter. There is faint circumstantial evidence suggesting this meter has always been with this camera.
As a reminder, this is how I got it.


The meter was dirty and dusty, but most importantly, it is not at zero.


I put a battery and it reacted slightly, so it is alive. Proceeded to clean the battery contacts and it started to react better. But still stuck about halfway on the scale.

I've never worked on these before so I'm learning along the way.
Carefully started taking it apart:




It is amazing how much dust this camera and this meter had inside and out!
Some of the solder joints were corroded and were cleaned.
The galvanometer needle was moving freely. Then I noticed the delicate top needle coil spring was mangled up. Just touched it and it sprung back to shape! Now the needle points to zero!!!
My theory is that this meter may have fallen or got a hard hit causing the delicate spring to mangle up.





Now I'll proceed to clean and put everything back together. I'm studying the inner workings to see if I can come up with a calibration procedure. I already have an idea but will need a bit more thought.

Thanks,
11-27-2020, 01:49 AM   #26
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I cannot comprehend how they put so much stuff inside such a tiny space.
11-27-2020, 01:41 PM - 2 Likes   #27
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X-posted:

Hello,

I found a way to calibrate it by lightly loosing the ASA dial indicator. However, before doing anything, I finished up cleaning (it was really dusty inside and out) and put it back together to baseline it. See how off it was if anything at all.
I suppose these meters were designed mostly to be used with normal lenses like 50mm-55mm. My line of thought is that my K-01 with a 35mm lens and set to center weight metering would be close to the intended use. So I used that as my "calibrated meter".
Pointing both the meter and the K-01 to the same scene looked promising but a bit cumbersome. So I changed the strategy. I went full manual mode on the K-01 and took several shots following only the meter's readings. Thinking about it, I should have shot in jpg, not raw. Anyways, here are the results:













I think it is fairly accurate! If anything, just a hint under, maybe a third of a stop. Remember it is reading full stops so it needs some practice to nail it.
I'm very happy with it! Not only it works, but it also looks much better now.

A final polishing job and...






Welcome back home Mr. Meter! Welcome home!


Thanks,
11-27-2020, 05:02 PM - 1 Like   #28
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Man Pentax was on fire with the m42 bodies. They look so good, especially when they were in black.
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