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12-07-2008, 11:41 PM   #1
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MX & Ilford shots (1280x817), discuss: T-grain/delta films.

As I've sent my LX to Eric to replace a viewfinder eyepiece, I loaded up the MX with some Delta 400 and wandered about. While I do miss the more 'extensive' metering display of the LX (more than +1/-1 EV), I'm finding I'm using the sunny 16 rule (and its derivatives) quite a bit these days, with the metered reading an afterthought. Shots are becoming very consistently well exposed.

Developed in DD-X, scanned at 2400 DPI. No EV adjustment, just a slight boost in black levels or 'medium contrast' in LR.







I'm a little on the fence with the Delta/T-grain style of films. Switching to DDX instead of ilfosol has helped things a bit, but I get the nagging feeling it's ending up a bit muddy at times, especially indoors. I have a (professionally) developed roll of Tri-X 400, and it seems to have a cleaner look to it, but it seems much more 'greyish' and lower constrast. Maybe more definition in the tones or just the layout of the grain structure, I don't know. For those of you who've been shooting film for a while, what's your opinion on how these turned out? Any developer/film combos you like?

12-08-2008, 01:28 AM   #2
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ONLY T/Epitaxial/Sigma grain correct?

Delta 100 and Fuji Acros are just brilliant!
Either developed in DDX or Rodinal

Form the 400s, I have only tried the Delta400 which I liked quite a lot in DDX.
It prints great, not sure about scanning though
Curves may need adjustment in digital.
12-08-2008, 06:58 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by CSoars Quote
I'm finding I'm using the sunny 16 rule (and its derivatives) quite a bit these days, with the metered reading an afterthought. Shots are becoming very consistently well exposed.
They certainly are! I know from living in London for many years how difficult it is to photograph in grey, snowy conditions. Light meters don't cope all that well, so maybe you're onto something here, using sunny 16. You've inspired me. As we in Oz move into our harsh-light summer it'll be interesting to try and develop that skill in virtually the polar opposite kind of conditions, especially as my ME-F's meter has just died.
Love the pics. I don't know anything about t-grain, but I'm glad to see Titrisol's stamp of approval on Delta 100, which I'm about to try for the first time. Might be worth while calling up Lithos, too, he's big on film.
12-08-2008, 09:31 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by titrisol Quote
ONLY T/Epitaxial/Sigma grain correct?

Delta 100 and Fuji Acros are just brilliant!
Either developed in DDX or Rodinal

Oh, *good.* I've been looking for an endorsement of Acros in Rodinal. I went and got some of the stuff, and was immediately plunged into two years of We're-about-to-move... Especially given that I have a real tendency to *crawl* through slower films, it just hasn't made sense to mix the stuff up. I've been wondering about Neopan 400 in Rodinal, too. I've seen some results on the Web I liked with that combination, also a lot of people who don't seem to approve. I'm looking for an extra-fast combination as well, top candidates there so far are Tri-X in Diafine and Tmax P3200 in its own stuff. (And I don't like what I get out of Neopan with the T-max developers: development time is too short for comfort or good control and I get too much contrast. Results from good old D-76 are very promising for Neopan 400 though.)

I'll figure something out eventually, I'm sure.

12-09-2008, 04:22 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wombat Quote
They certainly are! I know from living in London for many years how difficult it is to photograph in grey, snowy conditions. Light meters don't cope all that well, so maybe you're onto something here, using sunny 16. You've inspired me. As we in Oz move into our harsh-light summer it'll be interesting to try and develop that skill in virtually the polar opposite kind of conditions, especially as my ME-F's meter has just died.
Heh, my MX's light meter died in the middle of the Northern Territory when I was there and green to photography. I only had some 400 colour film and a top shutter speed of 1/1000th, I was bumping into that a bit, luckily the polarizer helped out a bit.

Would love to go back with some ssslooooowww film and the knowledge I've acquired so far.

Isn't Rodinal an Afga product?
12-10-2008, 12:55 AM   #6
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Neopan 400 is not a T/epi/sigma grain film, but a traditional silver one.
I loved it in DDX and Clayton F76

Acros does great in Rodinal, I have to look in my notes, but I think I used 1+50

QuoteOriginally posted by Ratmagiclady Quote
Oh, *good.* I've been looking for an endorsement of Acros in Rodinal. I went and got some of the stuff, and was immediately plunged into two years of We're-about-to-move... Especially given that I have a real tendency to *crawl* through slower films, it just hasn't made sense to mix the stuff up. I've been wondering about Neopan 400 in Rodinal, too. I've seen some results on the Web I liked with that combination, also a lot of people who don't seem to approve. I'm looking for an extra-fast combination as well, top candidates there so far are Tri-X in Diafine and Tmax P3200 in its own stuff. (And I don't like what I get out of Neopan with the T-max developers: development time is too short for comfort or good control and I get too much contrast. Results from good old D-76 are very promising for Neopan 400 though.)

I'll figure something out eventually, I'm sure.
12-10-2008, 01:26 AM   #7
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Found it!
1+50 12 minutes agitatin every other minute (my method)
1+100 18 minutes normal agitation
Acros and Rodinal in APUG
Fuji Acros and Rodinal? - APUG
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