ME Super focusiing screen for Super A / Program?

yanix03 · 01-05-2022, 08:19 PM

Hi guys,

So I made the rookie mistake of trying to clean the focusing screen of my Super A. It ended up being dirtier instead.

Question is, will the focusing screen of the ME Super work with the Super A/Program?

Also, how difficult is it to change the focusing screen on the Super A/Program?

Not a Number · 01-05-2022, 11:40 PM

Depends on if the screen is interchangeable to begin with. If it is you can change it from the mirror box. If not you would have to remove the top plate and all the circuitry to remove the prism. It may not be difficult for somebody that has much experience in doing this.

Did you damage the screen or just got gunk between the screen and the prism?

andrewd · 01-06-2022, 12:29 AM

It does not look like the Super-A has a user replaceable focusing screen. See manual below.

https://cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_super_a.pdf

**Kevin B123** · 01-06-2022, 05:54 AM - **1 Like**

The screen is replaceable by a specialist and requires strip down.

The ME Super screen is not compatible, the donor has to be another Super A unfortunately.

**gofour3** · 01-06-2022, 08:41 AM

Originally posted by Kevin B123

The screen is replaceable by a specialist and requires strip down.

The ME Super screen is not compatible, the donor has to be another Super A unfortunately.

Yep and the North American Super Program will also work.

Phil.

**tonyzoc** · 01-06-2022, 11:33 AM - **1 Like**

This would probably not be worth paying a repair technician to do, as you can probably get a replacement body cheaper. If it's something you can do yourself, then you can probably pick up a part Super Program for under $20. I'm pretty sure you're going to need to remove the top, resolder some wires to move the flexi circuit out of the way, and remove the prism to get at the screen.

One good thing, if you get a parts body for $20, you will have to remove the screen from it with a similar procedure needed to put it in your camera ..so you can guage how difficult it will be and you're only out $20 if you decide it too difficult.

yanix03 · 01-07-2022, 02:13 AM

Originally posted by Not a Number

Depends on if the screen is interchangeable to begin with. If it is you can change it from the mirror box. If not you would have to remove the top plate and all the circuitry to remove the prism. It may not be difficult for somebody that has much experience in doing this.

Did you damage the screen or just got gunk between the screen and the prism?

I'm not sure if I damaged the screen or its stuff between the prism. I did use a new cleaning cloth to gently wipe it down when the blower and brush failed to do anything. I didnt realize how bad the bumper foam had degraded until I grazed it and it started breaking apart and getting everywhere. So now I have to replace the light seals and everything on it, which should be fun to learn how.

I'm currently trying to take apart an ME Super SE, mainly trying to see if I could learn how to fix it. But now I'm thinking that maybe I could somehow use its focusing screen and fit it on the Super A. I read somewhere that someone was able to shave it down to make it fit on their Super A/Program? I like the diagonal split it has on its focusing screen.

---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 02:15 AM ----------

Originally posted by tonyzoc

This would probably not be worth paying a repair technician to do, as you can probably get a replacement body cheaper. If it's something you can do yourself, then you can probably pick up a part Super Program for under $20. I'm pretty sure you're going to need to remove the top, resolder some wires to move the flexi circuit out of the way, and remove the prism to get at the screen.

One good thing, if you get a parts body for $20, you will have to remove the screen from it with a similar procedure needed to put it in your camera ..so you can guage how difficult it will be and you're only out $20 if you decide it too difficult.

Yeah that's a good idea for sure. I did manage to find just the focusing screen for a Super A for sale, however I'd like to try and take it apart myself. Currently trying to take apart a ME Super to learn on it.

**tonyzoc** · 01-07-2022, 06:11 AM

Originally posted by yanix03

I'm not sure if I damaged the screen or its stuff between the prism. I did use a new cleaning cloth to gently wipe it down when the blower and brush failed to do anything. I didnt realize how bad the bumper foam had degraded until I grazed it and it started breaking apart and getting everywhere. So now I have to replace the light seals and everything on it, which should be fun to learn how.

I'm currently trying to take apart an ME Super SE, mainly trying to see if I could learn how to fix it. But now I'm thinking that maybe I could somehow use its focusing screen and fit it on the Super A. I read somewhere that someone was able to shave it down to make it fit on their Super A/Program? I like the diagonal split it has on its focusing screen.

---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 02:15 AM ----------

Yeah that's a good idea for sure. I did manage to find just the focusing screen for a Super A for sale, however I'd like to try and take it apart myself. Currently trying to take apart a ME Super to learn on it.

I've taken the top off a Super Program before, mainly to reglue the backlight window on the front of the prism area. Taking the top off isn't too hard but you'll need a narrow span wrench. The available lens span wrenches are too wide so you can make one from a drafters compass or a needle nose pliers by grinding the tips to the appropriate size. I've also seen them made from socket heads of the correct diameter to fit the holes...again using a file to grind them down and make 2 notches. If I remember correctly you need one for under the winder lever cap and one for under the rewind knob. Another thing to do is take before pictures of any wires you may desolder.

yanix03 · 01-07-2022, 06:15 AM

Originally posted by tonyzoc

I've taken the top off a Super Program before, mainly to reglue the backlight window on the front of the prism area. Taking the top off isn't too hard but you'll need a narrow span wrench. The available lens span wrenches are too wide so you can make one from a drafters compass or a needle nose pliers by grinding the tips to the appropriate size. I've also seen them made from socket heads of the correct diameter to fit the holes...again using a file to grind them down and make 2 notches. If I remember correctly you need one for under the winder lever cap and one for under the rewind knob. Another thing to do is take before pictures of any wires you may desolder.

Thanks! Not a lot of noob friendly instructions out there for the A bodies. Any tips for the rubber covering on top of the film advance? I've seen vids where people cut the rubber tops open.

**tonyzoc** · 01-07-2022, 06:29 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by yanix03

Thanks! Not a lot of noob friendly instructions out there for the A bodies. Any tips for the rubber covering on top of the film advance? I've seen vids where people cut the rubber tops open.

No, don't cut it. It's glued on so you could put a tiny bit of isopropyl alcohol around the edge of the cap, then work a thin blade under it to loosen it. Maybe an exakto-knife or a needle or a thin blade screw driver. Here are some of the tools I use pictured. Then include a JIS screwdriver set, a set of Starrett screwdrivers, a fiberglass brush for cleaning electrical contacts, tweezers, exakto-knife, oil pen, and Pliobond glue.

---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 06:46 AM ----------

I forgot one other area that's tricky...
Around the shutter release/mode dial. Again, you need a properly sized span wrench to remove the inner locking collar. It unscrews counterclockwise and is very easy to mark-up so a proper sized tool is needed or else it can get scratched up easily. Once that collar is unscrewed be very carefully lifting it off because under it is a small spring load ballbearing. I usually set the camera to Auto before removing. If I remember correctly, when in Auto the ball is free to pop up. Take note/picture of the position of the dial top so you can put it back correctly. The mode dial is very similar on the ME Super.

---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 06:57 AM ----------

BTW...I forgot about this Super Program I have pictured. It's got a shutter problem, 1/1000th and faster are capping...first curtain is sticking a bit and second curtain is catching up and closing. It needs a good CLA to fix it and I have 2 other Super Programs so I'm not going to fix it. The focus screen is pretty clean and you can have this body for the price of shipping if you'd like.

yanix03 · 01-08-2022, 03:08 AM

Originally posted by tonyzoc

No, don't cut it. It's glued on so you could put a tiny bit of isopropyl alcohol around the edge of the cap, then work a thin blade under it to loosen it. Maybe an exakto-knife or a needle or a thin blade screw driver. Here are some of the tools I use pictured. Then include a JIS screwdriver set, a set of Starrett screwdrivers, a fiberglass brush for cleaning electrical contacts, tweezers, exakto-knife, oil pen, and Pliobond glue.

---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 06:46 AM ----------

I forgot one other area that's tricky...
Around the shutter release/mode dial. Again, you need a properly sized span wrench to remove the inner locking collar. It unscrews counterclockwise and is very easy to mark-up so a proper sized tool is needed or else it can get scratched up easily. Once that collar is unscrewed be very carefully lifting it off because under it is a small spring load ballbearing. I usually set the camera to Auto before removing. If I remember correctly, when in Auto the ball is free to pop up. Take note/picture of the position of the dial top so you can put it back correctly. The mode dial is very similar on the ME Super.

---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 06:57 AM ----------

BTW...I forgot about this Super Program I have pictured. It's got a shutter problem, 1/1000th and faster are capping...first curtain is sticking a bit and second curtain is catching up and closing. It needs a good CLA to fix it and I have 2 other Super Programs so I'm not going to fix it. The focus screen is pretty clean and you can have this body for the price of shipping if you'd like.

Oh wow, thats very generous of you, but I couldn't possibly. They still sell for a good amount even for parts. Thank you however, I appreciate it

.

What you posted is the most detailed guide regarding that piece, thank you very much! Right now, I dont trust myself to open up my Super A without damaging it. Currently tinkering on a ME Super SE, trying to see if I can fix it with donor parts from another camera I have.

samop · 01-24-2022, 03:03 PM - **1 Like**

I am sure you don't need to disassemble the top of the super program/super a. I did the same mistake as you and found a donor super program for parts. To exchange the focusing screen, you need to unmount the lens and remove the two screws inside (see https://ibb.co/vcVFYCV marked in red). The focusing screen in metallic frame will open down and you can take it out with tweezers. The plastic part of the screen is glued to the metal frame and it is easiest to exchange both.

The only thing I am worried about after exchanging the focusing screen is the calibration (three screws marked in green). The three screws are placed at an angle, so they could be reached with a screwdriver through the lens mount. By adjusting the screws, the screen to lens distance is altered until it is the same as lens to film distance. Different bodies have different adjustments made and thus by making an exchange my fixed camera probably has ff or bf.. Next step is to replace the light seals

.

https://ibb.co/vcVFYCV

yanix03 · 01-24-2022, 06:55 PM

Wow thanks! I'll try that out on my spare Super Program. Thanks for sharing that info. May I ask what ff or bf stands for? Would it be possible to make these adjustments yourself?

Thanks!

Originally posted by samop

I am sure you don't need to disassemble the top of the super program/super a. I did the same mistake as you and found a donor super program for parts. To exchange the focusing screen, you need to unmount the lens and remove the two screws inside (see https://ibb.co/vcVFYCV marked in red). The focusing screen in metallic frame will open down and you can take it out with tweezers. The plastic part of the screen is glued to the metal frame and it is easiest to exchange both.

The only thing I am worried about after exchanging the focusing screen is the calibration (three screws marked in green). The three screws are placed at an angle, so they could be reached with a screwdriver through the lens mount. By adjusting the screws, the screen to lens distance is altered until it is the same as lens to film distance. Different bodies have different adjustments made and thus by making an exchange my fixed camera probably has ff or bf.. Next step is to replace the light seals

.

https://ibb.co/vcVFYCV

womble · 01-25-2022, 01:37 AM

Front focus and back focus.

samop · 01-25-2022, 12:12 PM

Originally posted by womble

Front focus and back focus.

I think it is possible to make adjustments by yourself, however...

I am thinking of the following procedure: Put the camera on the tripod with lens with some wide aperture (1.8 or less), remove back door of the camera, put the camera in bulb mode and open the shutter. Attach old focusing screen where the film should be with matte side towards the lens. Try to focus on some subject using split prism or whatever other means (probably using some magnifying glass or lens to really see that the object is in focus. When perfect focus is achieved, close the shutter and check whether the image in viewfinder is in focus. If not, turning the screws for adjustments as long as the image will be focused perfectly.

There are some problems I don't know how to solve with this procedure: there are 3 screws, and it is difficult to keep the screen level across the whole frame. So I would suggest to turn all three screws for the same amount. I have no other solution to the problem

. If anyone knows better way to do the adjustments, I would really like to hear it

.

Ps.: I haven't done this yet, so this is just theoretical now for the time being.

01-05-2022, 08:19 PM	#1
yanix03 New Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Posts: 12	ME Super focusiing screen for Super A / Program? Hi guys, So I made the rookie mistake of trying to clean the focusing screen of my Super A. It ended up being dirtier instead. Question is, will the focusing screen of the ME Super work with the Super A/Program? Also, how difficult is it to change the focusing screen on the Super A/Program?

01-06-2022, 12:29 AM	#3
andrewd Senior Member Join Date: May 2021 Posts: 238	It does not look like the Super-A has a user replaceable focusing screen. See manual below. https://cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_super_a.pdf Last edited by andrewd; 01-06-2022 at 02:47 AM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
ME, ME Super, Super Program	RMS52	Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras	10	04-09-2021 05:42 AM
Pentax Program A/Program Plus/Program A Plus	Finntax	Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras	12	06-11-2020 03:36 PM
Super Program and Winder ME II - not working, is it the camera or the winder (or me)?	OldChE	Film SLRs and Compact Film Cameras	22	10-17-2018 07:50 PM
Wanted - Acquired: Super Program/Super A or ME super	kaiserz	Sold Items	3	06-29-2012 03:14 AM

01-05-2022, 11:40 PM	#2
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	Depends on if the screen is interchangeable to begin with. If it is you can change it from the mirror box. If not you would have to remove the top plate and all the circuitry to remove the prism. It may not be difficult for somebody that has much experience in doing this. Did you damage the screen or just got gunk between the screen and the prism?

01-06-2022, 05:54 AM - 1 Like	#4
Kevin B123 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Hampshire Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,176	The screen is replaceable by a specialist and requires strip down. The ME Super screen is not compatible, the donor has to be another Super A unfortunately.

01-06-2022, 08:41 AM	#5
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by Kevin B123 The screen is replaceable by a specialist and requires strip down. The ME Super screen is not compatible, the donor has to be another Super A unfortunately. Yep and the North American Super Program will also work. Phil.

01-06-2022, 11:33 AM - 1 Like	#6
tonyzoc Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 992	This would probably not be worth paying a repair technician to do, as you can probably get a replacement body cheaper. If it's something you can do yourself, then you can probably pick up a part Super Program for under $20. I'm pretty sure you're going to need to remove the top, resolder some wires to move the flexi circuit out of the way, and remove the prism to get at the screen. One good thing, if you get a parts body for $20, you will have to remove the screen from it with a similar procedure needed to put it in your camera ..so you can guage how difficult it will be and you're only out $20 if you decide it too difficult.

01-07-2022, 02:13 AM	#7
yanix03 New Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Posts: 12 Original Poster	Originally posted by Not a Number Depends on if the screen is interchangeable to begin with. If it is you can change it from the mirror box. If not you would have to remove the top plate and all the circuitry to remove the prism. It may not be difficult for somebody that has much experience in doing this. Did you damage the screen or just got gunk between the screen and the prism? I'm not sure if I damaged the screen or its stuff between the prism. I did use a new cleaning cloth to gently wipe it down when the blower and brush failed to do anything. I didnt realize how bad the bumper foam had degraded until I grazed it and it started breaking apart and getting everywhere. So now I have to replace the light seals and everything on it, which should be fun to learn how. I'm currently trying to take apart an ME Super SE, mainly trying to see if I could learn how to fix it. But now I'm thinking that maybe I could somehow use its focusing screen and fit it on the Super A. I read somewhere that someone was able to shave it down to make it fit on their Super A/Program? I like the diagonal split it has on its focusing screen. ---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 02:15 AM ---------- Originally posted by tonyzoc This would probably not be worth paying a repair technician to do, as you can probably get a replacement body cheaper. If it's something you can do yourself, then you can probably pick up a part Super Program for under $20. I'm pretty sure you're going to need to remove the top, resolder some wires to move the flexi circuit out of the way, and remove the prism to get at the screen. One good thing, if you get a parts body for $20, you will have to remove the screen from it with a similar procedure needed to put it in your camera ..so you can guage how difficult it will be and you're only out $20 if you decide it too difficult. Yeah that's a good idea for sure. I did manage to find just the focusing screen for a Super A for sale, however I'd like to try and take it apart myself. Currently trying to take apart a ME Super to learn on it.

01-07-2022, 06:11 AM	#8
tonyzoc Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 992	Originally posted by yanix03 I'm not sure if I damaged the screen or its stuff between the prism. I did use a new cleaning cloth to gently wipe it down when the blower and brush failed to do anything. I didnt realize how bad the bumper foam had degraded until I grazed it and it started breaking apart and getting everywhere. So now I have to replace the light seals and everything on it, which should be fun to learn how. I'm currently trying to take apart an ME Super SE, mainly trying to see if I could learn how to fix it. But now I'm thinking that maybe I could somehow use its focusing screen and fit it on the Super A. I read somewhere that someone was able to shave it down to make it fit on their Super A/Program? I like the diagonal split it has on its focusing screen. ---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 02:15 AM ---------- Yeah that's a good idea for sure. I did manage to find just the focusing screen for a Super A for sale, however I'd like to try and take it apart myself. Currently trying to take apart a ME Super to learn on it. I've taken the top off a Super Program before, mainly to reglue the backlight window on the front of the prism area. Taking the top off isn't too hard but you'll need a narrow span wrench. The available lens span wrenches are too wide so you can make one from a drafters compass or a needle nose pliers by grinding the tips to the appropriate size. I've also seen them made from socket heads of the correct diameter to fit the holes...again using a file to grind them down and make 2 notches. If I remember correctly you need one for under the winder lever cap and one for under the rewind knob. Another thing to do is take before pictures of any wires you may desolder.

01-07-2022, 06:15 AM	#9
yanix03 New Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Posts: 12 Original Poster	Originally posted by tonyzoc I've taken the top off a Super Program before, mainly to reglue the backlight window on the front of the prism area. Taking the top off isn't too hard but you'll need a narrow span wrench. The available lens span wrenches are too wide so you can make one from a drafters compass or a needle nose pliers by grinding the tips to the appropriate size. I've also seen them made from socket heads of the correct diameter to fit the holes...again using a file to grind them down and make 2 notches. If I remember correctly you need one for under the winder lever cap and one for under the rewind knob. Another thing to do is take before pictures of any wires you may desolder. Thanks! Not a lot of noob friendly instructions out there for the A bodies. Any tips for the rubber covering on top of the film advance? I've seen vids where people cut the rubber tops open.

01-07-2022, 06:29 AM - 1 Like	#10
tonyzoc Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 992	Originally posted by yanix03 Thanks! Not a lot of noob friendly instructions out there for the A bodies. Any tips for the rubber covering on top of the film advance? I've seen vids where people cut the rubber tops open. No, don't cut it. It's glued on so you could put a tiny bit of isopropyl alcohol around the edge of the cap, then work a thin blade under it to loosen it. Maybe an exakto-knife or a needle or a thin blade screw driver. Here are some of the tools I use pictured. Then include a JIS screwdriver set, a set of Starrett screwdrivers, a fiberglass brush for cleaning electrical contacts, tweezers, exakto-knife, oil pen, and Pliobond glue. ---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 06:46 AM ---------- I forgot one other area that's tricky... Around the shutter release/mode dial. Again, you need a properly sized span wrench to remove the inner locking collar. It unscrews counterclockwise and is very easy to mark-up so a proper sized tool is needed or else it can get scratched up easily. Once that collar is unscrewed be very carefully lifting it off because under it is a small spring load ballbearing. I usually set the camera to Auto before removing. If I remember correctly, when in Auto the ball is free to pop up. Take note/picture of the position of the dial top so you can put it back correctly. The mode dial is very similar on the ME Super. ---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 06:57 AM ---------- BTW...I forgot about this Super Program I have pictured. It's got a shutter problem, 1/1000th and faster are capping...first curtain is sticking a bit and second curtain is catching up and closing. It needs a good CLA to fix it and I have 2 other Super Programs so I'm not going to fix it. The focus screen is pretty clean and you can have this body for the price of shipping if you'd like.

01-08-2022, 03:08 AM	#11
yanix03 New Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Posts: 12 Original Poster	Originally posted by tonyzoc No, don't cut it. It's glued on so you could put a tiny bit of isopropyl alcohol around the edge of the cap, then work a thin blade under it to loosen it. Maybe an exakto-knife or a needle or a thin blade screw driver. Here are some of the tools I use pictured. Then include a JIS screwdriver set, a set of Starrett screwdrivers, a fiberglass brush for cleaning electrical contacts, tweezers, exakto-knife, oil pen, and Pliobond glue. ---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 06:46 AM ---------- I forgot one other area that's tricky... Around the shutter release/mode dial. Again, you need a properly sized span wrench to remove the inner locking collar. It unscrews counterclockwise and is very easy to mark-up so a proper sized tool is needed or else it can get scratched up easily. Once that collar is unscrewed be very carefully lifting it off because under it is a small spring load ballbearing. I usually set the camera to Auto before removing. If I remember correctly, when in Auto the ball is free to pop up. Take note/picture of the position of the dial top so you can put it back correctly. The mode dial is very similar on the ME Super. ---------- Post added 01-07-22 at 06:57 AM ---------- BTW...I forgot about this Super Program I have pictured. It's got a shutter problem, 1/1000th and faster are capping...first curtain is sticking a bit and second curtain is catching up and closing. It needs a good CLA to fix it and I have 2 other Super Programs so I'm not going to fix it. The focus screen is pretty clean and you can have this body for the price of shipping if you'd like. Oh wow, thats very generous of you, but I couldn't possibly. They still sell for a good amount even for parts. Thank you however, I appreciate it . What you posted is the most detailed guide regarding that piece, thank you very much! Right now, I dont trust myself to open up my Super A without damaging it. Currently tinkering on a ME Super SE, trying to see if I can fix it with donor parts from another camera I have.

01-24-2022, 03:03 PM - 1 Like	#12
samop New Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Posts: 19	I am sure you don't need to disassemble the top of the super program/super a. I did the same mistake as you and found a donor super program for parts. To exchange the focusing screen, you need to unmount the lens and remove the two screws inside (see https://ibb.co/vcVFYCV marked in red). The focusing screen in metallic frame will open down and you can take it out with tweezers. The plastic part of the screen is glued to the metal frame and it is easiest to exchange both. The only thing I am worried about after exchanging the focusing screen is the calibration (three screws marked in green). The three screws are placed at an angle, so they could be reached with a screwdriver through the lens mount. By adjusting the screws, the screen to lens distance is altered until it is the same as lens to film distance. Different bodies have different adjustments made and thus by making an exchange my fixed camera probably has ff or bf.. Next step is to replace the light seals . https://ibb.co/vcVFYCV

01-24-2022, 06:55 PM	#13
yanix03 New Member Join Date: Nov 2021 Posts: 12 Original Poster	Wow thanks! I'll try that out on my spare Super Program. Thanks for sharing that info. May I ask what ff or bf stands for? Would it be possible to make these adjustments yourself? Thanks! Originally posted by samop I am sure you don't need to disassemble the top of the super program/super a. I did the same mistake as you and found a donor super program for parts. To exchange the focusing screen, you need to unmount the lens and remove the two screws inside (see https://ibb.co/vcVFYCV marked in red). The focusing screen in metallic frame will open down and you can take it out with tweezers. The plastic part of the screen is glued to the metal frame and it is easiest to exchange both. The only thing I am worried about after exchanging the focusing screen is the calibration (three screws marked in green). The three screws are placed at an angle, so they could be reached with a screwdriver through the lens mount. By adjusting the screws, the screen to lens distance is altered until it is the same as lens to film distance. Different bodies have different adjustments made and thus by making an exchange my fixed camera probably has ff or bf.. Next step is to replace the light seals . https://ibb.co/vcVFYCV

01-25-2022, 01:37 AM	#14
womble Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hertfordshire Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,324	Front focus and back focus.

01-25-2022, 12:12 PM	#15
samop New Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Posts: 19	Originally posted by womble Front focus and back focus. I think it is possible to make adjustments by yourself, however... I am thinking of the following procedure: Put the camera on the tripod with lens with some wide aperture (1.8 or less), remove back door of the camera, put the camera in bulb mode and open the shutter. Attach old focusing screen where the film should be with matte side towards the lens. Try to focus on some subject using split prism or whatever other means (probably using some magnifying glass or lens to really see that the object is in focus. When perfect focus is achieved, close the shutter and check whether the image in viewfinder is in focus. If not, turning the screws for adjustments as long as the image will be focused perfectly. There are some problems I don't know how to solve with this procedure: there are 3 screws, and it is difficult to keep the screen level across the whole frame. So I would suggest to turn all three screws for the same amount. I have no other solution to the problem . If anyone knows better way to do the adjustments, I would really like to hear it . Ps.: I haven't done this yet, so this is just theoretical now for the time being.