[McLovin]

Hey guys,

I'm looking into getting a manual film camera just to learn with/fool around with (I grew up with digital so I want to experience a film slr). I was looking at a getting a cheap K1000 on criagslist or something and I came across an ad for "Pentax K1000 Red". Supposedly it's a special edition of the K1000 and the only difference is a red K1000 engraving instead of black and it has black skin around the flash mount.

I wasjust wondering if this is a legit special edition model, or is someone just painting the logo red, and calling it special edition so they can sell for more?

[Buffy]

There was anbother thread on this just recently. I think the consensus was that this is baloney.

[McLovin]

Do you have a link to the other thread about it? I can't find it but I would give it a read through if someone has a link.

I'm probably not going to spend twice the price just for a red logo anyways, I just want to make sure I'm not missing out on something big.

[k100d]

i think the other thread was someone using red marker on the lens to make the Pentax-M red or something like that, not the body.

[Wheatfield]

Hey guys,

I'm looking into getting a manual film camera just to learn with/fool around with (I grew up with digital so I want to experience a film slr). I was looking at a getting a cheap K1000 on criagslist or something and I came across an ad for "Pentax K1000 Red". Supposedly it's a special edition of the K1000 and the only difference is a red K1000 engraving instead of black and it has black skin around the flash mount.

I wasjust wondering if this is a legit special edition model, or is someone just painting the logo red, and calling it special edition so they can sell for more?

The consensus on the PDML is that it is a custom camera that was produced in someone's basement.
Whether real or not, the stink of phoniness is now stuck to it.

[Ratmagiclady]

If you don't have a sentimental or collector's whimsy for such a variation in the first place, and know exactly what it is, I wouldn't pay any extra for it.

Nothing wrong with a K1000, but if you want a different color leather or lettering on it, I could set you up from here.

[ChrisPlatt]

Several years ago a few khaki green K1000 bodies popped up on eBay.
They were well done but obviously didn't come from the factory that way.

Chris

[Ratmagiclady]

Yeah, people shouldn't be passing that sort of thing off as some kind of rare edition, ...but anyone in the market for rare editions ought to know better, anyway, before they shell out.

[McLovin]

Good points, regular K1000 it is then. Thanks!

[McLovin]

I'll check out the KM as well, the price isn't too much of an issue because I would get either one used for really cheap. But if it has some extra features it might be worth it.

This is a little off topic but what should I look for when buying a used Pentax film camera (K1000, KM, or anything else)? Are they usually pretty solid or is there a good chance buying used will get me a camera that has some broken functions? Might be a stupid question but I've never bought anything used that is this old before.

[lithos]

KM might be good, but it's not easy getting a KM compared to getting a K1000. I know its easier getting an ME Super over an MX.

While the leather(ette) might have been replaced - CameraLeather.com has leather kits for a wide variety of Pentax cams - it might actually be a K1000SE with the brown leatherette that has confused the seller or has faded. Not sure. Haven't actually seen a K1000SE.

[vinzer]

KM might be good, but it's not easy getting a KM compared to getting a K1000. I know its easier getting an ME Super over an MX.

While the leather(ette) might have been replaced - CameraLeather.com has leather kits for a wide variety of Pentax cams - it might actually be a K1000SE with the brown leatherette that has confused the seller or has faded. Not sure. Haven't actually seen a K1000SE.

Agreed. There are more K1000s floating around than the KM, especially where I'm from. I've never seen a KM locally, as well as the LX and the MZ-S (my two current goals).

The most prominent Pentax SLRs here are the ME and the Super Program, along with SF-series SLRs.

[Stevopedia]

I've got a K1000 SE in brown leather, and I can't see how it could be confused with red. It's a very pretty medium brown, and there's actually some good photos of a brown K1000 SE in this thread.

[Wombat]

This is a little off topic but what should I look for when buying a used Pentax film camera (K1000, KM, or anything else)? Are they usually pretty solid or is there a good chance buying used will get me a camera that has some broken functions? Might be a stupid question but I've never bought anything used that is this old before.

The K1000 is virtually bomb proof, so you're unlikely to have problems with bits falling off. An important thing to watch for is the state of the foam light seals and especially the mirror pad. Take the lens off and you'll see a thin strip of foam just under the focus screen. Very gently prod it and see if it springs back more or less instantly. If it takes a dent and doesn't fill out again you'll need to get the seals replaced pronto. That's not a big deal and you'd be wise to get a clean, lube and adjust at the same time. In Australia they charge around $90; may be a lot cheaper where you live. It's really worth the extra - you'll have a camera that will probably outlast you.
Try out every shutter setting and aperture stop and make sure everything has a nice solid click to it. Make sure the light meter works. Check the advance lever works smoothly and returns properly. With the lens off, look inside while you operate the shutter and make sure the mirror returns fully. Open the lens to its widest setting and peer through it. Look for dirt, scratches, broken parts, signs of heavy-handed attempts at repair. Check the whole camera for the same. Open up the back and make sure everything is nice and clean and the spool spindle is straight.
This may sound a lot but it only takes a few moments and you'll know you've done everything you can to get a good camera for your money. You can practice the routine with your digital before you hit the shops. (And I suggest you get your first film camera from a shop so you've got some comeback if it turns out to be a dog). Just be careful not to let dust onto the sensor, though.
I'm sure others will have more to add. Best of luck. You're in for a real treat.

[vinzer]

The K1000 is virtually bomb proof, so you're unlikely to have problems with bits falling off. An important thing to watch for is the state of the foam light seals and especially the mirror pad. Take the lens off and you'll see a thin strip of foam just under the focus screen. Very gently prod it and see if it springs back more or less instantly. If it takes a dent and doesn't fill out again you'll need to get the seals replaced pronto. That's not a big deal and you'd be wise to get a clean, lube and adjust at the same time. In Australia they charge around $90; may be a lot cheaper where you live. It's really worth the extra - you'll have a camera that will probably outlast you.
Try out every shutter setting and aperture stop and make sure everything has a nice solid click to it. Make sure the light meter works. Check the advance lever works smoothly and returns properly. With the lens off, look inside while you operate the shutter and make sure the mirror returns fully. Open the lens to its widest setting and peer through it. Look for dirt, scratches, broken parts, signs of heavy-handed attempts at repair. Check the whole camera for the same. Open up the back and make sure everything is nice and clean and the spool spindle is straight.
This may sound a lot but it only takes a few moments and you'll know you've done everything you can to get a good camera for your money. You can practice the routine with your digital before you hit the shops. (And I suggest you get your first film camera from a shop so you've got some comeback if it turns out to be a dog). Just be careful not to let dust onto the sensor, though.
I'm sure others will have more to add. Best of luck. You're in for a real treat.

You've pretty much covered the bases, Wombat.

I'll just add to test the slower shutter speeds, too. Set the dial to 1 second then make a rough count yourself if the shutter stayed open for around a second. The K1000 that I bought had the shutter speed timings off. It's fixable, though, at least mine was.

Mine also occassionally had the mirror stuck before, but it happens only with the slower shutter speeds, so it also wouldn't hurt to test those slow speeds. Again, it's fixable.