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01-04-2009, 07:09 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by séamuis Quote
... personally I like a little battle damage, it adds character ...
I'm all with you there!

01-04-2009, 10:35 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by vinzer Quote

I haven't been able to find nitrocellulose paint in our local stores, so I'll have a look-see at Microtools first and determine if the price is good enough, including shipping. Otherwise, I'll probably resort to car paint. I don't mind the extra gloss, really. It won't be hitting the used marketplace anytime soon, anyway.
Truth be told, I actually liked the gloss better than the boring flat finish on most of the black cameras that you see.
01-05-2009, 01:14 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Douglas_of_Sweden Quote
Oh please paint it white and have it posted here. I'd love to see if it can provoke as many silly reactions as the white K-m!
Well, it's not a current SLR, so I don't think it'll get as many complaints. Most of the complaints are usually restricted to the News and Rumors section.

QuoteOriginally posted by Douglas_of_Sweden Quote
I'm all with you there!
I appreciate a bit of brassing, too, but you haven't seen the battle scars on the KM I got. It's more like it has seen an epic battle against the forces of evil. Okay, I exaggerate, but looking at it, it seems to have been used for more than taking pictures.

QuoteOriginally posted by DAP Quote
Truth be told, I actually liked the gloss better than the boring flat finish on most of the black cameras that you see.
If you're referring to the matte black DSLRs of today, I agree with you. I kinda like the semi-glossy finish on the LX, which is what I'll be aiming for, unless I get the urge to go wild on the color scheme.

There's a black MX on KEH being sold right now, but as much as I'd like to get it, my card's all maxed out. I doubt that camera will stay in stock for long. Ms. Ratmagiclady, maybe you wanna give that a go?
01-05-2009, 08:54 AM   #19
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I've been wondering about options like the muriatic acid concept: (For me to set that sort of thing up just for a few camera plates would be a bit of a project to do safely, then there's disposal and possibly even getting hold of the stuff in the first place: sourcing the stuff probably isn't the hard part if it's legal to have, but it's obviously a bit dangerous.)

My plan had been to see what I could do mechanically removing the chrome and well, see what I can get to stick that way. But... I also keep thinking there *has* to be someone out there like a gunsmith or an auto parts restorer who could just dip some pieces for me. And maybe even powdercoat them... which might kind of defeat most of the purpose of something to do with my hands, admittedly, but the results could possibly be pretty darn cool.

If people are interested, though, maybe if I get caught up on some other stuff, I can take up a little collection for any truly-messed up plates to experiment on with Dremel tools and ordinary coatings. I also know a few useful tricks to do with painting in the lettering and the like: I used to do some model painting for people back when I was getting out less.

(Which is where I have these notions, 'Hey, I could do this if I could find the right stuff,' actually.)



01-05-2009, 09:20 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by vinzer Quote
If you're referring to the matte black DSLRs of today, I agree with you. I kinda like the semi-glossy finish on the LX, which is what I'll be aiming for, unless I get the urge to go wild on the color scheme.

There's a black MX on KEH being sold right now, but as much as I'd like to get it, my card's all maxed out. I doubt that camera will stay in stock for long. Ms. Ratmagiclady, maybe you wanna give that a go?

Well, as I said, no hurry, there, at least until I have more Pentax glass. Maybe something like it at some point. One thought I've had is to get a black one that's mechanically-hosed and put the black plates on a closet-sitter that runs well.

I'm not a stickler for things appearing to be perfect or unused, mind you. I find the Canon F-1N to have a lovely matte black finish, which I suppose wouldn't stand out much in these days, but my own's a little brassed, the drive's worn smooth in places, (And I therefore have a little section of bicycle inner tube on the grip to help keep hold) ...but that's really part of the delight of older things. Tools with history.

I think the LX has a nice finish, mind you. Stuff like those old Leicas and newer Voigtlanders... also very nice. And, hey, when you have cameras that you could tell from the countless other examples *blindfolded,* that's something you have.
01-06-2009, 01:16 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ratmagiclady Quote
I've been wondering about options like the muriatic acid concept: (For me to set that sort of thing up just for a few camera plates would be a bit of a project to do safely, then there's disposal and possibly even getting hold of the stuff in the first place: sourcing the stuff probably isn't the hard part if it's legal to have, but it's obviously a bit dangerous.)

My plan had been to see what I could do mechanically removing the chrome and well, see what I can get to stick that way. But... I also keep thinking there *has* to be someone out there like a gunsmith or an auto parts restorer who could just dip some pieces for me. And maybe even powdercoat them... which might kind of defeat most of the purpose of something to do with my hands, admittedly, but the results could possibly be pretty darn cool.

If people are interested, though, maybe if I get caught up on some other stuff, I can take up a little collection for any truly-messed up plates to experiment on with Dremel tools and ordinary coatings. I also know a few useful tricks to do with painting in the lettering and the like: I used to do some model painting for people back when I was getting out less.

(Which is where I have these notions, 'Hey, I could do this if I could find the right stuff,' actually.)

I'll have a go at DIY first. In any case, should I fail, I could then turn to the auto paint guy to fix it.

I'm not sure about where you are, but I can easily find muriatic acid on Ace Hardware store shelves, though I hesitate to try that since there are kids who drop by every now and then, and I don't want to run the risk of them getting their hands on that acid. They can scrape their knees pretty good by themselves as it is.

I should be getting the KM back soon, and I'll report my own progress of attempting to de-chrome using sandpaper as soon as I'm able.

QuoteOriginally posted by Ratmagiclady Quote
Well, as I said, no hurry, there, at least until I have more Pentax glass. Maybe something like it at some point. One thought I've had is to get a black one that's mechanically-hosed and put the black plates on a closet-sitter that runs well.

I'm not a stickler for things appearing to be perfect or unused, mind you. I find the Canon F-1N to have a lovely matte black finish, which I suppose wouldn't stand out much in these days, but my own's a little brassed, the drive's worn smooth in places, (And I therefore have a little section of bicycle inner tube on the grip to help keep hold) ...but that's really part of the delight of older things. Tools with history.

I think the LX has a nice finish, mind you. Stuff like those old Leicas and newer Voigtlanders... also very nice. And, hey, when you have cameras that you could tell from the countless other examples *blindfolded,* that's something you have.
I appreciate all-metal bodies, regardless of brand. I also think highly of the Canon F-1N, and think it's a nice camera. There's something about all-metal cameras of yesteryear that I find appealing, even with all the brassing. I doubt I'd feel the same about DSLRs today with a bit of scratches on their plastic exterior. But no matter, as long as they all take good photos, that's what matters most.
01-06-2009, 02:42 PM   #22
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Hrm, come to think of it, I guess I'd made the presumption that you needed some seriously strong stuff to make this work. Maybe I'll look into the chemical option after all, then. I'd need to gather a few things, and figure out about any disposal concerns. If I can set it up, I'd be willing to do some others' plates at the same time, I'm sure. No idea when, though.
01-06-2009, 03:07 PM   #23
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Disposal is easy. You dilute with water until safe. Then it can be poured on the ground. It is used to adjust water in swimming pools.
You can buy it at Home Depot.
You can use a jar large enough to be sure the parts are completely covered. It actually removes chrome pretty quick. Then light sand the nickel before etching primer and paint.

01-07-2009, 03:00 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by wildlifephotog Quote
Disposal is easy. You dilute with water until safe. Then it can be poured on the ground. It is used to adjust water in swimming pools.
You can buy it at Home Depot.
You can use a jar large enough to be sure the parts are completely covered. It actually removes chrome pretty quick. Then light sand the nickel before etching primer and paint.
Just a safety note - watch out when you dilute the acid down! Do not add water to acid (always add acid to water). When I disposed of the used solution I added baking soda to neutralize the acid and then took the remainder to the local chemical disposal (for what it is worth I think I used a working solution of somewhere in the range of 1 part acid to 1-2 parts water - measured using the old eyeball method).
01-07-2009, 03:32 PM   #25
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My bad. Yes by all means pour acid into water! Thank you for catching my error in posting.
Baking soda would be excellent, and fun to watch foam. LOL
01-08-2009, 06:26 AM   #26
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Update: I just got my KM back, and started to sand it. It's probably not as quick as the acid method, but sandpaper does get the chrome and nickel removed.
01-28-2009, 02:12 PM   #27
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check the HUMBROL range of model car/plane paints
- used primarily as a touch up paint- a complete colour range- very finely ground so that brush marks dont show- also matting agents available
- some have used airbrushes as well as top quality- read expensive- SABLE water colour brushes- ( this is very important) and if possible use LACQUER thinner to clean the brushes -then warm soap , working it well thru the filaments rinse really well
and finally
- suck it to a point and dry

- all this is important as the brush WILL cost more than the paint
03-08-2009, 07:10 PM   #28
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I just got a Pentax ZX-5 body and one of my fast 50 prime lenses back from Eric Hendrickson and wow is this guy a find. Thank you all for the recommendation. Now I know where I will be sending my gear for repairs...
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