Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
01-29-2009, 08:26 PM   #1
Site Supporter




Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Colorado
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 977
Developing my first roll of B&W.

So I have been practicing rolling film all week and I feel really comfortable, I'm not even touching the film with my hands (in complete darkness). So this Saturday is going to be the big day. I will be developing a roll of T-Max B&W. So this is what I have:

1 bag Kodak Professional D-76 Developer (makes 1 gallon)
1 bag Kodak Professional Fixer (makes 1 gallon)
1 bottle Kodak Photo-Flo 200 (16 oz)
2-1 gallon brown plastic bottles
Developing tank and reels
scissors
bottle opener
2 clips 1 to hang film with and 1 to hold film flat


What I need to get:
2 gallons distilled water (I have hard water)
1 tall Thermometer

What I'm not sure about:
What kind of measuring cups do I need
Do I need to get something dark to store the used (but still good) chemicals in while I'm still able to use them?

Thanks
Jim

01-29-2009, 09:01 PM   #2
Veteran Member
Mike Cash's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Japan
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 6,952
Does D-76 work for TMAX? I thought TMAX had its own developer.
01-29-2009, 09:12 PM   #3
Site Supporter




Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Colorado
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 977
Original Poster
Thanks for the reply Mike. On my developer bag is says "Film Code" and it lists 15 different types. Among them are 400TMY and 100 TMX and those are the two main films that I play with. There is a number on the developer bag that sat CAT146 4817.
Also here is a link to the developer that I have http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/kodak_tech/j78.pdf

thanks
Jim
01-29-2009, 10:13 PM   #4
Inactive Account




Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Minneapolis
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 220
hypo clear, lets you use less water during final wash.
negative storage sleeves.
accordion bottles to store chemicals with as little air as possible.

I use a 500ml graduated flask to measure water, dedicated 500ml containers and graduated vials for dev, fix, hypo, and photoflo, labeled so I always use the same ones for the same chemicals. All of my solutions are liquid so all I have to do is dilute.
Ryan

01-29-2009, 10:16 PM   #5
Site Supporter
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 27,105
QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
Does D-76 work for TMAX? I thought TMAX had its own developer.
Yes, it is reputed to work. In fact I found one article that says that D-76 works VERY well. Adequate agitation seems to be the key.
T-Max Films -- What Rochester Forgot to Tell Us
Steve
01-29-2009, 10:26 PM   #6
Site Supporter
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 27,105
Jim,

For measuring, you will need a graduated cylinder of at least 500ml capacity. In regards to storage:
  • You should discard all chemicals for developing film after use. Reuse of developer with replenishment is not real feasible for the home user. Reuse of both stop and fixer is ill-advised since both are very cheap and do their job best when at full strength.
  • Unused developer is funny stuff. It goes bad (turns icky brown) with age and with exposure to light and/or oxygen. I used to mix up a gallon and then split it into 4-1 quart dark-brown plastic bottles. I would fill them to the top and cap tightly. The partially used bottles, I would squeeze as much of the excess air out and then breath into the top (using a straw) to displace as much of the residual air as possible.
  • Unused fixer is fairly stable and requires no special treatment
  • Ditto for unused stop bath. Regarding stop bath...you can use water or acetic acid for the stop bath. It was always my practice to use an acid bath mixed fresh for film and to dilute the acetic acid to 50% of the recommended dilution for film. The rational was that the acid-base reaction could be pretty vigorous and damage the emulsion.

Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 01-30-2009 at 10:58 PM.
01-29-2009, 10:43 PM   #7
Site Supporter
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 27,105
I forgot to add two more short comments:

Mix your chemicals using the distilled water, but don't be concerned about washing the film in hard water. Washing requires a slow, but constant flow of fresh water over and around the film. A good practice is to simply pop the lid from the developing tank and run a flow of water down the center of the reel. The fixer is dense so it is important to have flow from the bottom up. When the wash is done, you can do a final rinse with distilled water, though my experience has been that the distilled water rinse is not needed and that finishing with photoflo alone will do an admirable job of preventing spots.

I did not see a squeegee or viscous sponge on your list. This is pretty much essential if you have hard water. I prefer the viscous sponge to the squeegee. Get the sponges made for darkroom use. Keep them clean and well out of the way of the photographic chemicals and any source of dirt. The key to avoiding scratches is to not apply pressure to the film surface. You just gently run the edge of the damp sponge along the surface of the film.

Steve
01-30-2009, 01:14 AM   #8
Veteran Member
titrisol's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: In the most populated state... state of denial
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 1,094
QuoteOriginally posted by jbrowning Quote
So I have been practicing rolling film all week and I feel really comfortable, I'm not even touching the film with my hands (in complete darkness). So this Saturday is going to be the big day. I will be developing a roll of T-Max B&W. So this is what I have:

1 bag Kodak Professional D-76 Developer (makes 1 gallon)
1 bag Kodak Professional Fixer (makes 1 gallon)
1 bottle Kodak Photo-Flo 200 (16 oz)
2-1 gallon brown plastic bottles
Developing tank and reels
scissors
bottle opener
2 clips 1 to hang film with and 1 to hold film flat


What I need to get:
2 gallons distilled water (I have hard water)
1 tall Thermometer

What I'm not sure about:
What kind of measuring cups do I need
Do I need to get something dark to store the used (but still good) chemicals in while I'm still able to use them?

Thanks
Jim
Good deal, those chemicals are what you need to start.
Measuring cups, get them at Walmart or at the Dollar store, just make sure you do not use them to cook.
Thermometer, get one for pool or aquarium, those are very accurate in the 20C/68F range. Also in the aquarium stores they used to sell smaller measuring cups (250 ml or so) that were much more accurate than the kitchen cups, get one.


To store the chemicals it is better to have smaller bottles than 1 gallon. The exposure to air generally oxidizes your chemicals and degrades them. Also if you contaminate your developer or fixer it is easier (and less painful) to discard 1 liter than 1 gallon.
For the D76, you need to "break it"to make it last longer.
Go to the pharmacy and ask if you can get some small dark bottles, if you can not get them, try buying a few nalgene bottles of 500ml, in the worst case drink a few MouintainDews (small ones).
Then prepare your full gallon of D76 and store in the smaller bottles filling it to the brim to avoid exposure to air. In that way your developer should last at least 6 months, and most probably 1 year.
I would recommend you use youir D76 as "one-shot". Dilute it 1+1 and use the times for it (Tmax 100 - 10 minutes) agitate once every minute or once every other minute (add 1 more minute in this case)

For fixer you need a bottle, any good plastic container will do. I personally prefer liquid concentrate fixer, and mix 1l at a time in a Nalgene bottle. It is better if you break the fixer and use 1l at a time, after ~10 rolls drop a piece of leader in the fixer and check how long does it take for the film to become clear. If that is longer than 1 minute discard the fixer.


Tmax film works perfectly in D76, it actually can be developed in any other developer you want. There is no such thing as a specia developer for film X or Y, just methods need to be different.

01-30-2009, 02:46 PM   #9
Site Supporter




Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Colorado
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 977
Original Poster
Thanks for all the replies. I always drink Diet Mountain Dew and Diet Code Red Mountain Dew. I will just get them in the 20 oz bottles next time. How would I go about cleaning them out? Just warm soapy water and put the lid on and slosh it around for a little bit?

Thanks
Jim
01-30-2009, 03:18 PM   #10
Pentaxian
Lowell Goudge's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Toronto
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 15,395
QuoteOriginally posted by jbrowning Quote
So I have been practicing rolling film all week and I feel really comfortable, I'm not even touching the film with my hands (in complete darkness). So this Saturday is going to be the big day. I will be developing a roll of T-Max B&W. So this is what I have:

1 bag Kodak Professional D-76 Developer (makes 1 gallon)
1 bag Kodak Professional Fixer (makes 1 gallon)
1 bottle Kodak Photo-Flo 200 (16 oz)
2-1 gallon brown plastic bottles
Developing tank and reels
scissors
bottle opener
2 clips 1 to hang film with and 1 to hold film flat


What I need to get:
2 gallons distilled water (I have hard water)
1 tall Thermometer

What I'm not sure about:
What kind of measuring cups do I need
Do I need to get something dark to store the used (but still good) chemicals in while I'm still able to use them?

Thanks
Jim
what about a stop bath?

usually acetic acid?
01-30-2009, 10:04 PM   #11
Site Supporter




Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Colorado
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 977
Original Poster
Hi Lowell, it has been a while since we have talked. From what I'm understanding, I can rinse with water and the will stop the developer from working.

Thanks
Jim
01-30-2009, 10:30 PM   #12
Site Supporter
zplus's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 168
Everyone has forgotten something pretty important: a stop watch
I am really new to developing too but I'd just like to say not to make it too complicated. All you really need, chemicals wise, is developer, fixer and water. You dont have to have a stop bath solution or hypo clearing agent (you need a stop bath but you can use water).
Good luck!
01-30-2009, 11:36 PM   #13
Site Supporter
stevebrot's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Vancouver (USA)
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 27,105
QuoteOriginally posted by zplus Quote
Everyone has forgotten something pretty important: a stop watch
I am really new to developing too but I'd just like to say not to make it too complicated. All you really need, chemicals wise, is developer, fixer and water. You dont have to have a stop bath solution or hypo clearing agent (you need a stop bath but you can use water).
Good luck!
Good points! Hypo clearing agent is expensive and sort of a waste when developing negatives in small tanks and usually water is fine as a stop bath. An acid stop bath is only really required if development time is critical such as when using high-energy developers or when fine control over development is desired.

Having said that...Even though an acid stop bath is optional, it is a step that was always part of my practice. I always figured that if I was exact about my timing and agitation, I should be exact in regards to stopping development. A mildly acid stop bath has been recommended with the following rational:
  • It neutralizes residual developer within the emulsion and immediately arrests development
  • It helps maintain a low (acidic) pH in the fixer (less alkaline contamination from the developer)
  • It helps prevent staining and formation of chemical scum on the negative
Here is a recipe for acid stop bath:
28% acetic acid 45ml
Water to make 1 liter
If you can't source 28% acetic acid or Kodak stop bath concentrate (the same thing), don't sweat it. Water will work and the little extra development that may result may actually be beneficial with TMax (my personal experience).

Steve

Reference: Adams, Ansel. 1981. The Negative. New York Graphic Society. 272 pages.

Last edited by stevebrot; 01-30-2009 at 11:44 PM.
01-31-2009, 02:00 PM   #14
Pentaxian
Lowell Goudge's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Toronto
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 15,395
QuoteOriginally posted by jbrowning Quote
Hi Lowell, it has been a while since we have talked. From what I'm understanding, I can rinse with water and the will stop the developer from working.

Thanks
Jim
must be nice, things seem to have changed since I last did this 20 years ago.

I keep thinking I'll do some more, at least B&W film, and then develop myself. I have a 1940's ish daylight film loading and processing tank that I never used and which was forgotten when I traded my darkroom for my first digital camera, all 2MP of it.,
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
bag, bottle, film, gallon, kodak, roll, water
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Jumping into the b&w film developing world barbosas Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 11 12-27-2010 01:30 AM
developing two different films at once tvfd911 Film Processing, Scanning, and Darkroom 9 08-30-2010 11:51 AM
Starting B&W film developing. PollitowuzHere Pentax Film SLR Discussion 14 03-24-2010 01:40 AM
First roll back from developing Mechan1k Pentax Film SLR Discussion 31 03-13-2009 08:18 AM
Rock & Roll @ Sunset atupdate Monthly Photo Contests 0 02-19-2009 06:27 PM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:59 PM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top