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02-05-2009, 10:22 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by pw-pix Quote
Dektol is a print developer, not a film developer.
lol, thanks I had the dektol package on my desk and just happened to type it when I was trying to think of the developer, I don't know what developer we used oh well

02-06-2009, 05:31 AM   #17
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Some BW films. Any of them is ok (see that there are placed separately the C41 ones)
http://www.popphoto.com/assets/download/5212003132741.pdf

Here you have some BW processing, resources http://digitaltruth.com/devchart.html ( http://digitaltruth.com/ ) , http://www.apug.org/forums/forum13/ etc.
02-13-2009, 06:35 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by shutterpuppy Quote
I worked at a Fuji lab for eight years and we hated processing C-41 B/W film like the plague, most of it was sent by APS format and not 35mm but the results always seemed to give us bluish or pinkish tint photos and color correcting to a solid B/W photo was a nightmare. Maybe the Fuji chemicals and Kodak film weren't compatible with each other. My other nightmare was doing 110 but that's another story for another day

Barry
Ah, but the unpredictable tints are my favorite part! Clearly the machine at wal-mart is not nearly as diligent as you were, it just ignores the tints, and it's usually a nice cool green or blue or purple in my experience (I think they use kodak chemicals, all their digital print machines are kodak as well).

zplus, you can do it, but chances are you'll get lower contrast and more grain... basically, it's a much better idea to just use traditional bw film if you want to use bw chemicals.
02-13-2009, 06:55 PM   #19
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Developing C-41 at home is not any more difficult than traditional black and white. You can even do monochrome C41 and color C41 films together, in the same tank. I started doing this a few months ago and was stunned at how simple it is. The only real difference is that the temperature has to be higher.

YouTube - Developing C41 Color Film At Home

02-13-2009, 10:01 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by zplus Quote
lol, thanks I had the dektol package on my desk and just happened to type it when I was trying to think of the developer, I don't know what developer we used oh well
Back in my younger days I use to run a lot of Tri-X through Microdol X and D-76. The Microdol made the grain a little less pronounced.

I use to buy 100 ft rolls of the stuff.
02-14-2009, 01:33 AM   #21
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I've heard of people developing Tri-x in Dektol. If I remember right, they said they got insane grain.
02-14-2009, 02:43 AM   #22
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Technically, I could go down and develop black-and-white film in our lake; Lake Erie has a higher level of (acidity or alkalinity, I forget which) than normal fresh water (due to pollution, mostly), to a degree that it could actually very slowly develop film. Dunno what you'd do for fix, though.

People have developed film with coffee just for fun. The possibilities really are endless.
02-14-2009, 10:05 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by mabelsound Quote
Developing C-41 at home is not any more difficult than traditional black and white. You can even do monochrome C41 and color C41 films together, in the same tank. I started doing this a few months ago and was stunned at how simple it is. The only real difference is that the temperature has to be higher.

If you like doing colour at home, get yourself a Jobo processor (if you haven't yet). They are a wonderful little tool for the home darkroom enthusiast.

02-14-2009, 12:18 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by er1kksen Quote
Technically, I could go down and develop black-and-white film in our lake; Lake Erie has a higher level of (acidity or alkalinity, I forget which) than normal fresh water (due to pollution, mostly), to a degree that it could actually very slowly develop film. Dunno what you'd do for fix, though.

People have developed film with coffee just for fun. The possibilities really are endless.

I've been using a caffenol C as my regular developer for a while now. It is a coffee and vitamine C based developer. Overall it works well. It costs next to nothing, and chemically it's about as nasty as a load of laundry.

I have found that Delta 100 underexposes about a 1 to 1.5 stops. Delta 400 also underexposes. Not sure by how much yet. Tri-x 400 needs to be overexposed by a 1/2 stop in low contrast light, and seems to work well at box speed in high contrast light.

The grain it produces is very pronounced. I have not yet determined if the grain I get is a result of my process, or a result of the caffenol C.

The negatives have a noticable fog to them. This does result in a reduced tone graduation in the light areas, like the sky. I think the fog might be a result of the Vitimine C, but I am not yet sure.

Eventually I will try different temps, times, and recipies, but right now I am just working on standardising my method.

As for c-41 film, I have been trying to find out what would happen if I process it using B/W chemicals. There are a variety of results posted on the internet. Some people claim it works well, some claim it produces no image what so ever. I think there might be a difference if it is colour C-41 vs B/W C-41. I expect I will need to try it before I really will know what happens. I hesitate though, because I do not want to contamiate my fixer.

Anyhow, good luck with your course, and developing your own.

Here is a shot using Tri-X 400, shot at box speed, developed in Caffenol C for 12 minutes at 21C.

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