First roll back from developing

Mechan1k · 02-28-2009, 03:02 AM

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Sorry ... no pics in this thread ... I need to scan the images in.

Well from a n00b film user ... I had some good with the bad.

I was using Fuji Superia 100 ASA film in my Spotmatic. And the colours from this film are simply amazing.

The majority of my images were mediocre ... and my indoor shots absolutely sucked (very underexposed ... even though I did set it up to overexpose) ... I was using available light only (mainly because I ahve no idea when it comes to flash with one of these).

I'd say the 100 speed film may not have helped me in this situation with indoor shots though.

Outdoor images were good ... where it's just my skills that need fine tuning. But all in all I kinda know where I am going wrong and will try and sort that out.

My learning curve is just beginning.

Nesster · 02-28-2009, 04:49 AM

Hey, great going! The best way to learn is to just play and observe, and you're doing it!

J.Scott · 02-28-2009, 04:50 AM

I'm glad you're not totally discouraged with your first results. With practice you'll get better.

If you are open to suggestions it sounds like you are in need of a light meter. I'd recommend a small, inexpensive one that measures reflected light. I have an old Sekonic I bought 30+ years ago that doesn't require a battery and it is invaluable. Guessing exposures by 'sunny 16' is good in a pinch but it's better to have a reliable light meter.

(Edit: I just took a gander at Ebay and found this light meter up for auction. This is exactly the one I have. I have no connection with this seller; it's just to show you that a good light meter for your purposes doesn't need to cost an arm and a leg. It is extremely simple to use and will never need a battery. It is powered by the light you are measuring.

Mechan1k · 02-28-2009, 04:55 AM

I am just a little discouraged with my indoor shots ... although I think next time I might get my K10D with a similar lens .. and see what it tells me the exposures should be for indoors ... and see if it matches up to the Spottie.

There was a nice little Sekonic on the Marketplace a while back ... but i think it is gone ... I don't want to spend too much on one (as I have seen some for decent $$$$).

I am using the light meter in the Spottie ... and it does work well outside ... but it's just the indoors that is getting me.

I guess practic makes perfect though ... this time I have 200 speed film in ... and will try a few things this time and see how it turns out.

calicojack · 02-28-2009, 08:09 AM

Buy a simple, cheap "Auto" flash for indoor shots. The hardest part will be getting a PC socket to hot shoe adapter. I doubt you'll be able to find any cheap Auto flash with a cord anymore. OBTW, you'll need the flash shoe adapter for the spotmatic (if you don't have one) or you might find an old bracket or handle mount flash. The "Auto" flash is easy to use. You just set the flash to auto, (pick the f stop if the flash gives you a choice), set the lens to the f stop that matches the flash, and set the camera on the X sync setting. Oh yeah, you'll have to keep your subject in the distance range that the flash tells you to. You can adjust the exposure +/- by adjusting the f stop on the lens(within reason).
Have fun learning the old ways.

Mechan1k · 02-28-2009, 08:32 AM

On my freebie Spotmatic it came with a flash bracket with hotshoe ... and a cable synced flash (old SunPak DC3 ... not sure if it is auto). I haven't tried it out yet ... and I daresay it'll need batteries as well.

I do remember on the side of the flash that it has a small table of figures.

Here's a quick pic of the flash on the other Spottie (sorry for the poor photo)

Mechan1k · 02-28-2009, 08:57 AM

Found an actualy online PDF for the above flash ... and it seems pretty straight forward.
I think i need more time to play indoors with this ... just need to find the the right batteries for it now.

Gotta love freebie hand-me-downs that were destined for the bin.

Steinback · 02-28-2009, 01:53 PM

I would also suggest checking your Spotmatic's light meter against your K10d's meter.

Looking at your signature, your DA18-55 at 18mm on a K10d should be pretty close to your 28mm Super Tak on a Spotmatic. For scenes with difficult lighting I've actually used my digital body as a light meter for my K1000 with good results.

Mechan1k · 03-01-2009, 01:22 AM

When I get a chance ... I'll test it against my K10D.

I tested the Sunpak today with new batteries ... and tapped the connection on the test pin ... the flash works ... and recycles within the normal specified time ... so it is good to know it works ... and with that flash bracket I have ... I can swivel bounce as well

No tilt though (unless I hand held the flash within reach of the sync cord.)

Mechan1k · 03-01-2009, 04:56 AM

Will try and get some of the images uploaded soon ... still in the middle of scanning them ... hopefully will be up in a day or 2.

ftpaddict · 03-01-2009, 05:43 AM

Your scanner is really slow, Simon.

Mechan1k · 03-01-2009, 05:45 AM

Ummm ... yeah ... even at 2400dpi. :P
Im at work on nightshift at the moment ... so only got a couple scanned and lightly edited to get the colour matching right after the scan.

Will upload them tomorrow after I get home from work then the gym in the morning.

Am tempted to use another roll up playing with the flash ... hahahaha

Mechan1k · 03-01-2009, 10:07 PM

Just finished off most of the scans ... and then resized for upload.
Scans of photos just aren't the same as the photo itself though unfortunately.
I got them as close as possible ... but there's only so much you can do I guess.

Here are the first lot.

Now to scan a few more.

Mike Cash · 03-02-2009, 03:09 AM

Originally posted by Mechan1k

Just finished off most of the scans ... and then resized for upload.
Scans of photos just aren't the same as the photo itself though unfortunately.
I got them as close as possible ... but there's only so much you can do I guess.

Here are the first lot.

Just remember that after you get a scan you now have a digital image and will often find it beneficial to adjust white balance and levels (especially the black side).

ftpaddict · 03-02-2009, 03:22 AM

You just can't beat that film look...

02-28-2009, 03:02 AM	#1
Mechan1k Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 2,891	First roll back from developing Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. Sorry ... no pics in this thread ... I need to scan the images in. Well from a n00b film user ... I had some good with the bad. I was using Fuji Superia 100 ASA film in my Spotmatic. And the colours from this film are simply amazing. The majority of my images were mediocre ... and my indoor shots absolutely sucked (very underexposed ... even though I did set it up to overexpose) ... I was using available light only (mainly because I ahve no idea when it comes to flash with one of these). I'd say the 100 speed film may not have helped me in this situation with indoor shots though. Outdoor images were good ... where it's just my skills that need fine tuning. But all in all I kinda know where I am going wrong and will try and sort that out. My learning curve is just beginning.

02-28-2009, 04:50 AM	#3
J.Scott Inactive Account Join Date: Mar 2007 Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,675	I'm glad you're not totally discouraged with your first results. With practice you'll get better. If you are open to suggestions it sounds like you are in need of a light meter. I'd recommend a small, inexpensive one that measures reflected light. I have an old Sekonic I bought 30+ years ago that doesn't require a battery and it is invaluable. Guessing exposures by 'sunny 16' is good in a pinch but it's better to have a reliable light meter. (Edit: I just took a gander at Ebay and found this light meter up for auction. This is exactly the one I have. I have no connection with this seller; it's just to show you that a good light meter for your purposes doesn't need to cost an arm and a leg. It is extremely simple to use and will never need a battery. It is powered by the light you are measuring. Last edited by J.Scott; 02-28-2009 at 04:56 AM.

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02-28-2009, 04:49 AM	#2
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072	Hey, great going! The best way to learn is to just play and observe, and you're doing it!

02-28-2009, 04:55 AM	#4
Mechan1k Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 2,891 Original Poster	I am just a little discouraged with my indoor shots ... although I think next time I might get my K10D with a similar lens .. and see what it tells me the exposures should be for indoors ... and see if it matches up to the Spottie. There was a nice little Sekonic on the Marketplace a while back ... but i think it is gone ... I don't want to spend too much on one (as I have seen some for decent $$$$). I am using the light meter in the Spottie ... and it does work well outside ... but it's just the indoors that is getting me. I guess practic makes perfect though ... this time I have 200 speed film in ... and will try a few things this time and see how it turns out.

02-28-2009, 08:09 AM	#5
calicojack Inactive Account Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Long Island, N.Y. Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,124	Buy a simple, cheap "Auto" flash for indoor shots. The hardest part will be getting a PC socket to hot shoe adapter. I doubt you'll be able to find any cheap Auto flash with a cord anymore. OBTW, you'll need the flash shoe adapter for the spotmatic (if you don't have one) or you might find an old bracket or handle mount flash. The "Auto" flash is easy to use. You just set the flash to auto, (pick the f stop if the flash gives you a choice), set the lens to the f stop that matches the flash, and set the camera on the X sync setting. Oh yeah, you'll have to keep your subject in the distance range that the flash tells you to. You can adjust the exposure +/- by adjusting the f stop on the lens(within reason). Have fun learning the old ways.

02-28-2009, 08:32 AM	#6
Mechan1k Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 2,891 Original Poster	On my freebie Spotmatic it came with a flash bracket with hotshoe ... and a cable synced flash (old SunPak DC3 ... not sure if it is auto). I haven't tried it out yet ... and I daresay it'll need batteries as well. I do remember on the side of the flash that it has a small table of figures. Here's a quick pic of the flash on the other Spottie (sorry for the poor photo)

02-28-2009, 08:57 AM	#7
Mechan1k Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 2,891 Original Poster	Found an actualy online PDF for the above flash ... and it seems pretty straight forward. I think i need more time to play indoors with this ... just need to find the the right batteries for it now. Gotta love freebie hand-me-downs that were destined for the bin.

02-28-2009, 01:53 PM	#8
Steinback Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: GTA, ON, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,673	I would also suggest checking your Spotmatic's light meter against your K10d's meter. Looking at your signature, your DA18-55 at 18mm on a K10d should be pretty close to your 28mm Super Tak on a Spotmatic. For scenes with difficult lighting I've actually used my digital body as a light meter for my K1000 with good results.

03-01-2009, 01:22 AM	#9
Mechan1k Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 2,891 Original Poster	When I get a chance ... I'll test it against my K10D. I tested the Sunpak today with new batteries ... and tapped the connection on the test pin ... the flash works ... and recycles within the normal specified time ... so it is good to know it works ... and with that flash bracket I have ... I can swivel bounce as well No tilt though (unless I hand held the flash within reach of the sync cord.)

03-01-2009, 04:56 AM	#10
Mechan1k Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 2,891 Original Poster	Will try and get some of the images uploaded soon ... still in the middle of scanning them ... hopefully will be up in a day or 2.

03-01-2009, 05:43 AM	#11
ftpaddict Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Yurp Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,666	Your scanner is really slow, Simon.

03-01-2009, 05:45 AM	#12
Mechan1k Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 2,891 Original Poster	Ummm ... yeah ... even at 2400dpi. :P Im at work on nightshift at the moment ... so only got a couple scanned and lightly edited to get the colour matching right after the scan. Will upload them tomorrow after I get home from work then the gym in the morning. Am tempted to use another roll up playing with the flash ... hahahaha

03-01-2009, 10:07 PM	#13
Mechan1k Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 2,891 Original Poster	Just finished off most of the scans ... and then resized for upload. Scans of photos just aren't the same as the photo itself though unfortunately. I got them as close as possible ... but there's only so much you can do I guess. Here are the first lot. Now to scan a few more.

03-02-2009, 03:09 AM	#14
Mike Cash Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Japan Photos: Gallery Posts: 6,950	Originally posted by Mechan1k Just finished off most of the scans ... and then resized for upload. Scans of photos just aren't the same as the photo itself though unfortunately. I got them as close as possible ... but there's only so much you can do I guess. Here are the first lot. Just remember that after you get a scan you now have a digital image and will often find it beneficial to adjust white balance and levels (especially the black side).

03-02-2009, 03:22 AM	#15
ftpaddict Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Yurp Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,666	You just can't beat that film look...