[Swift1]

Canon 7 rangefinder
KMZ Jupiter-12 35/2.8
Expired Kodak TRI-X 400
Epson V750

[Helios 1984]

Kodak Gold 200 of unknown age (Probably 10-15 years old) shot with my Praktica L w/ Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 50mm f/2.8

[dsmithhfx]

[tuco]

I try to keep adjustments to a minimum on these earth tone cemetery pictures but the auto white balance on the scanning software doesn't seem to work well on them. I end up deciding how warm or cool it should really be. As a result it just doesn't feel or look like it should. Maybe it's the film's influence with these kinds of colors. I dunno. I like the pastel colors 400H give in my fair atmosphere pictures though.

Fuji 400H

[nickthetasmaniac]

Tasmanian Waratah | Cradle Valley

Leica M2, Voigtlander 35/f2 Ultron and Portra400

[dsmithhfx]

Tmax 400

[Jonathan Mac]

I try to keep adjustments to a minimum on these earth tone cemetery pictures but the auto white balance on the scanning software doesn't seem to work well on them. I end up deciding how warm or cool it should really be. As a result it just doesn't feel or look like it should. Maybe it's the film's influence with these kinds of colors. I dunno. I like the pastel colors 400H give in my fair atmosphere pictures though.

Fuji 400H

I find it very difficult to get the white balance correct on scans and I experience a phenomenon whereby my eyes get accustomed to what they see and after a bit of time looking at the image it looks fine. Then later on I look at it and I think it's awful. I need to sometimes look away and try to mentally reset my picture of what I want it to look like, then try again to reproduce that in the software.

This one looks a little too blue to me.

[dsmithhfx]

I find it very difficult to get the white balance correct on scans and I experience a phenomenon whereby my eyes get accustomed to what they see and after a bit of time looking at the image it looks fine. Then later on I look at it and I think it's awful. I need to sometimes look away and try to mentally reset my picture of what I want it to look like, then try again to reproduce that in the software.

This one looks a little too blue to me.

Since I look at photos on 3-4 very different displays (at least one of which 'drifts' through the day), I have given up on trying to make it 'perfect', and ballpark it.

[tuco]

Since I look at photos on 3-4 very different displays (at least one of which 'drifts' through the day), I have given up on trying to make it 'perfect', and ballpark it.

I hear yeah. I experience that same issues looking at the image too long. Computer monitors are not very good mediums for everyone seeing the same color especially if you want to flirt with the edge of black in a picture.

I have put a back/grey/white cards in a picture, balanced off of them then scan the picture without the cards before. It actually helps. In a scene where I didn't use the cards, I look for a neutral color and adjust individual color channels until R=G=B as close as possible. My CG276 monitor has a built in calibrator I use periodically. But often 10-biit monitors introduce more problems in a workflow once some software in it gets updated and it all breaks.

[dsmithhfx]

I hear yeah. I experience that same issues looking at the image too long. Computer monitors are not very good mediums for everyone seeing the same color especially if you want to flirt with the edge of black in a picture.

I have put a back/grey/white cards in a picture, balanced off of them then scan the picture without the cards before. It actually helps. In a scene where I didn't use the cards, I look for a neutral color and adjust individual color channels until R=G=B as close as possible. My CG276 monitor has a built in calibrator I use periodically. But often 10-biit monitors introduce more problems in a workflow once some software in it gets updated and it all breaks.

My consistent bad habit at time of pp editing is trying to hang onto deep shadow detail to a fault, when I come back to the image days/weeks later, I consider it overall too bright and lacking 'punch'. Sometimes I go back to square one and redo it, sometimes I cheat and boost the image gamma with gThumb's adjustment tools and resave.

[tuco]

My consistent bad habit at time of pp editing is trying to hang onto deep shadow detail to a fault, when I come back to the image days/weeks later, I consider it overall too bright and lacking 'punch'.

Whoa, that sounds way too familiar.

[fs999]

Canon A-1 • Canon New FD 20mm F2.8
Ferrania P30 80 ISO in Caffenol CL stand 60min. @20°C


Pentax *ist • Tamron SP AF Di 90mm F2.8 Macro
Rollei Retro 100 developed in Caffenol CLCS 70min stand @ 15°-20°C

[g026r]

Canon A-1 • Canon New FD 20mm F2.8
Ferrania P30 80 ISO in Caffenol CL stand 60min. @20°C

Interesting look to the P30 in Caffenol. Contrast seems a little less harsh compared to some other developers.

[gofour3]

Wife with penguins. (KX shooting E100GX)



Phil.

[fs999]

Interesting look to the P30 in Caffenol. Contrast seems a little less harsh compared to some other developers.

Yes. Anecdotally Kbr is needed for this low speed film to avoid strikes...