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06-27-2010, 05:39 AM   #3391
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This maybe demonstrates how a pre-WWII (1937) uncoated consumer-grade triplet, a Ludwig-Dresden Victar 7.5cm f/4.5, can sometimes achieve decent detail. This lens flares a lot, even on a gray rainy day like the one I shot this. I had to do quite a bit of burning on the left top, where the wee bit of sky overwhelmed the house. I had to do quite a bit of curves work also to get contrast. Ilford XP2 in a Certo Super Sport 120 folder.



06-27-2010, 08:54 AM   #3392
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Very cool shot. It is fun to use old cameras sometimes.

I bought a few Kodak Instamatic 500 cameras this year and have been loading the
126 cartridges with 35m film. Still trying to get it 100% but have had some luck.




Same tractor with my Yashica Mat 124G

06-27-2010, 04:41 PM   #3393
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
This maybe demonstrates how a pre-WWII (1937) uncoated consumer-grade triplet, a Ludwig-Dresden Victar 7.5cm f/4.5, can sometimes achieve decent detail. This lens flares a lot, even on a gray rainy day like the one I shot this. I had to do quite a bit of burning on the left top, where the wee bit of sky overwhelmed the house. I had to do quite a bit of curves work also to get contrast. Ilford XP2 in a Certo Super Sport 120 folder.
It's pretty interesting how a picture taken just recently with a modern emulsion can end up having such a historic look.
06-27-2010, 05:28 PM   #3394
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I hear the next edition of Photoshop will have an "uncoated triplet" button...

Chris

06-27-2010, 05:43 PM   #3395
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
This maybe demonstrates how a pre-WWII (1937) uncoated consumer-grade triplet, a Ludwig-Dresden Victar 7.5cm f/4.5, can sometimes achieve decent detail. This lens flares a lot, even on a gray rainy day like the one I shot this. I had to do quite a bit of burning on the left top, where the wee bit of sky overwhelmed the house. I had to do quite a bit of curves work also to get contrast. Ilford XP2 in a Certo Super Sport 120 folder.
It has a real antique feel. It even looks like the really old film that wasn't sensitive to blue much.
06-28-2010, 09:06 AM   #3396
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Low light, wide open, high ISO and BW film:



Pentax ZX-L, FA 31mm F1.8 @ F2, Ilford 3200 rated 1600
06-28-2010, 12:58 PM   #3397
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Here is an interesting to me situation.
I was scanning some film a few minutes ago, when I noticed I scanned a picture backwards. I flipped the film and scanned it the right way, but am now getting to different looking pictures. I redid this three times with the same settings. Is this normal? Does the film look the different depended on what side is scanned? Just curious. I rather like the flipped side better.
The software I use is Vue Scan.



06-28-2010, 01:07 PM   #3398
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Javier, cool idea, but the result isn't all that surprising when you consider one side is the emulsion and one side is the film stock; they each probably have different reflective properties and the sensor in the scanner is reacting to how much light is bouncing back to the source. Just a guess on my part, but it sounds right...

Best,
Kevin

P. S. I like the "reversal" better, too, although the text is a little annoying <g>.

06-28-2010, 01:12 PM   #3399
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I like the flipped scan better as well. Just flip it in Photoshop and you are set.

I'll have to try some upside down film scanning as well to see what I get using the Coolscan and
Nikon software.
06-28-2010, 01:18 PM   #3400
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgredline Quote
Does the film look the different depended on what side is scanned? Just curious. I rather like the flipped side better.
The software I use is Vue Scan.
I couldn't say. I've never scanned a it upside down before but apparently it does. If you like the more contrasty look of the first image, no problem. Just adjust the low values in VueScan to make it darker or just adjust it in your image editor.

In VueScan, do you select color film and select T-Max film brand? You don't need T-Max film for this. What it will do is scan in RGB mode and give you a gray scale image that is RGB. You can select the output to be 24 or 48bit. And the option of T-Max film gives you different target densities (eg D-76 0.4, 0.55 etc and T-Max 0.4, 0.55 etc). So set the white balance to "manual" and you'll see extra settings appear to control the look you want from the scan.
06-28-2010, 01:34 PM   #3401
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgredline Quote
Here is an interesting to me situation.
I was scanning some film a few minutes ago, when I noticed I scanned a picture backwards. I flipped the film and scanned it the right way, but am now getting to different looking pictures...
If I had to guess, I'd say auto levels/exposure in the scan software is picking different white and black points because of the different crops. I haven't used Vuescan in a while, but I believe there is an option to do the initial crop tighter, but scan with a bigger margin to get the whole image. If it doesn't, manually crop tighter and see what you get. Any stray light coming in around the image will become the new white/black point and can also cause flare.

Edit: A lot of scanners request the emulsion side down and automatically flip the image in software. If you prefer it that way, there's nothing wrong with doing it that way. I also believe Vuescan has a "tickbox" to mirror the image for you.
06-28-2010, 03:01 PM   #3402
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Took my son to see/ride Thomas the Train this weekend. I haven't had a chance to take anything but family pics lately, but I was happy with this push and wanted to share.

MZ-S; 43mm Limited; Legacy Pro 400@800; semi-stand in HC-110 1:75 for 20 min. Just a 1 stop push, but surprisingly good shadow detail for a film that usually seems to have a pretty long toe.





... And here he is about 5 minutes into the train ride.
06-28-2010, 03:15 PM   #3403
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QuoteOriginally posted by Vertex Ninja Quote
Took my son to see/ride Thomas the Train this weekend. I haven't had a chance to take anything but family pics lately, but I was happy with this push and wanted to share.

MZ-S; 43mm Limited; Legacy Pro 400@800; semi-stand in HC-110 1:75 for 20 min. Just a 1 stop push, but surprisingly good shadow detail for a film that usually seems to have a pretty long toe.

Excellent results as usual. I really love these.

If only my two kids are as cooperative as yours ...
06-28-2010, 03:18 PM   #3404
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
This maybe demonstrates how a pre-WWII (1937) uncoated consumer-grade triplet, a Ludwig-Dresden Victar 7.5cm f/4.5, can sometimes achieve decent detail. This lens flares a lot, even on a gray rainy day like the one I shot this. I had to do quite a bit of burning on the left top, where the wee bit of sky overwhelmed the house. I had to do quite a bit of curves work also to get contrast. Ilford XP2 in a Certo Super Sport 120 folder.
This one has the old film feel, very nicely done.

Usually I don't do much post process on film, but I don't develop and scan my film either. Someday I should do all on my own as you guys.
06-28-2010, 03:28 PM   #3405
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A few more from Super Program + DFA100WR on Reala 100:













These were taken under shade, colors are a bit warm but that's how they look like anyway.
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