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03-03-2013, 01:03 AM   #8056
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QuoteOriginally posted by Swift1 Quote
Pentax 645n, SMC Pentax-FA 45-85mm f/4.5, Fujichrome Velvia RVP
Lovely film shot.

03-03-2013, 12:41 PM   #8057
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QuoteOriginally posted by Swift1 Quote
Here's a test shot from my newly acquired FED 3 w/Industar 61 L/D.
Fujicolor 200
Since this post, I've been searching online for Russian rangefinders, and fell in love with the Zorki 4. I'd like to purchase a good one, so I'd like to know about tips&tricks
03-03-2013, 02:09 PM   #8058
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QuoteOriginally posted by arnold Quote
Lovely film shot.
Thanks.

QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
Since this post, I've been searching online for Russian rangefinders, and fell in love with the Zorki 4. I'd like to purchase a good one, so I'd like to know about tips&tricks
I think I kinda got lucky on mine. Buying them here in the US can be a bit of a crap shoot as they all usually come from Ukraine and shipping is often more than the camera so returns are kinda uneconomical.
I would look for one that looks good and then do some research on the seller.
The FED 3 I received was a different camera and lens than was in the listing photos which kinda bugs me but the camera and lens look clean and good.
03-03-2013, 02:13 PM   #8059
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I already know that the Zorki 4s made before 1963 have engraved letterings, while the later ones are just silkscreened, and thus can get rubbed off, so that's one aspect to consider. Over here in Romania, there's plenty of them, but finding one that also has an unscratched lens seems to be a liitle more difficult.

03-03-2013, 04:44 PM - 2 Likes   #8060
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QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
I already know that the Zorki 4s made before 1963 have engraved letterings, while the later ones are just silkscreened, and thus can get rubbed off, so that's one aspect to consider. Over here in Romania, there's plenty of them, but finding one that also has an unscratched lens seems to be a liitle more difficult.
  • Make sure that the lettering on the shutter speed dial is engraved, regardless of the other lettering
  • Make sure both shutter curtains are free of holes. Rangefinder cameras with cloth shutters are prone to burnt shutter curtains due to accidental exposure of the lens to direct sun.
  • Wimpy as they might be, get strap lugs if you can.
  • Vulcanite is preferable to the leatherette, and leatherette is preferable to the fabric covering. The cloth is slick and hard to hold.
  • Jupiter-8 is the preferred normal lens over the Industar 50. You may find it easier to find a good black body J-8 (more recent make) as opposed to the earlier silver version.
As I may have mentioned in other postings, I have a Zorki 4K as well as a FED-2. Both do a decent job, but the Zorki has a much nicer 1:1 viewfinder. The FED-2, on the other hand is smaller in the hand and handles better than the Zorki. I mount black J-8s to both cameras, but can also highly recommend the Jupiter-12 35/2.8.

This is probably my favorite shot done with the J-8 on the Zorki 4K:




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03-04-2013, 02:24 PM   #8061
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Thanks! Now the choice looks much easier. Why should I get the engraved shutter speeds? I assume they can wear off as well, and I'd be shooting in the dark?
03-04-2013, 04:41 PM   #8062
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QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
Why should I get the engraved shutter speeds? I assume they can wear off as well, and I'd be shooting in the dark?
Exactly.

My Zorki 4K has a printed dial. I have downloaded a template to print a clear overlay at some point, but would prefer to not have to think in those terms.


Steve
03-04-2013, 10:54 PM - 1 Like   #8063
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A few from my first roll of Ektar. SF1 with 55/1.4 or 24/2.0. Negative processed at the local shop, then photographed with K-5 and S-M-C Takumar 50/4 and finished in Lightroom. Takes a while, but considering this was my second roll of film, the amount I've learned, and the results I'm getting, this is quite worthwhile.











03-05-2013, 06:16 AM   #8064
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QuoteOriginally posted by JonPB Quote
A few from my first roll of Ektar. SF1 with 55/1.4 or 24/2.0. Negative processed at the local shop, then photographed with K-5 and S-M-C Takumar 50/4 and finished in Lightroom. Takes a while, but considering this was my second roll of film, the amount I've learned, and the results I'm getting, this is quite worthwhile.
Those are all great but I really like the tricycle. Cool colors.
03-06-2013, 12:37 PM   #8065
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
...
Steve, I have to choose between a 1958 and a 1963 Zorki 4, however the 1958 is about double in price ($65). Both have silver Jupiter 8, everything engraved and strap lugs. Is there any reason I should get the 58?
03-06-2013, 01:58 PM - 1 Like   #8066
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QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
Steve, I have to choose between a 1958 and a 1963 Zorki 4, however the 1958 is about double in price ($65). Both have silver Jupiter 8, everything engraved and strap lugs. Is there any reason I should get the 58?
There is no advantage to the earlier version that I am aware of. Make sure the camera has a take-up spool. These are removeable and often missing. They are not too hard to find, but would be something to keep in mind. A couple of other things to keep in mind is that the tripod socket is likely 3/8" rather 1/4" (there are adapters...a shallow version works best). The filter thread may also be a non-standard pitch (my silver Jupiter-8 is that way), so take care when attempting to fit filters or hoods.

When you get your camera, you can take pride in owning a peice of photographic history. KMZ made 1,7 million Zorki 4s!


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03-06-2013, 02:57 PM   #8067
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Thanks for the great advice. Apparently you get the Leica-styled window frames with the older model, not sure if that matters.
03-06-2013, 03:54 PM   #8068
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QuoteOriginally posted by JonPB Quote
A few from my first roll of Ektar. SF1 with 55/1.4 or 24/2.0. Negative processed at the local shop, then photographed with K-5 and S-M-C Takumar 50/4 and finished in Lightroom. Takes a while, but considering this was my second roll of film, the amount I've learned, and the results I'm getting, this is quite worthwhile.
I like the trike, too. and the steps and the bridge. Those first two seem a little blue, but I assume that was accounted for by the grey skies.

Now I wanna try some Ektra, too.
03-06-2013, 04:33 PM   #8069
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QuoteOriginally posted by kc.virginia Quote
Those are all great but I really like the tricycle. Cool colors.
QuoteOriginally posted by nparsons13 Quote
I like the trike, too. and the steps and the bridge. Those first two seem a little blue, but I assume that was accounted for by the grey skies.
Thanks for the comments.

I'm still learning how to see the color balance. Since I'm using curves to make the adjustments, getting anywhere close to normal looks great after all the odd combinations that your eyes were getting used to. Part of my process will need to be getting it close, then looking at other things for a while before returning to Lightroom. The best trick I've found is to photograph the negative using at least one blue filter to counterbalance the orange mask. Anyone have experience with that?
03-08-2013, 03:22 AM - 1 Like   #8070
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I also sometimes photograph my negatives… You can do a lot colour correction by adjusting the white balance on the camera. But sometimes it is really hard to get nice colours. So mostly I let my negatives profesionally scanned. Costs a bit of money but I don't have to scan and colourcorrect them which costs me easily an hour or more per 36-images film.
Scanning or photographing slides is much easier by the way.





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Ektar 100
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