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12-25-2014, 08:59 PM   #10651
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote

Nice shot, which Kiev? There are many models.
Thanks. 4a

12-26-2014, 04:09 AM   #10652
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These were meant for the bokeh club:





12-26-2014, 02:41 PM - 3 Likes   #10653
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Testing out my new FA20-35/4 using a K2, shooting Portra 160.




Phil.
12-26-2014, 03:10 PM   #10654
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QuoteOriginally posted by ivrabec985 Quote
after developing i was little scared to look at the film but when i looked i was amazed thinking i did it!!!
Congrats! I'm in similar situation -- I just got my chemicals and still have a couple other supplies to pick up. I've done developing years ago, and as you say it is exciting. I'm eager to experience that same excitement again. I'm surprised that film photography doesn't have a 'drum machine' so that we can have a drum roll playing as we open the developing tank.

12-26-2014, 07:31 PM   #10655
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote
These were meant for the bokeh club:
What is that last picture of?

---------- Post added 12-26-14 at 09:32 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
Testing out my new FA20-35/4 using a K2, shooting Portra 160.

Phil.
That's clever!

---------- Post added 12-26-14 at 09:33 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by ivrabec985 Quote
couple of days ago i decided that i will start developing b&w films
i went shopping and i got all: developer, fixer, kaiser tank, clips....and b&w films
so today i went out with my first ever b&w film. i got home and prepared everything for "the process".
i made my bathroom lightproof and started... what a rush of adrenaline
after the film was in the tank i turned on the light. temperature of developer&fixer was ~20C and i turned on stopwatch...
me against time
after developing i was little scared to look at the film but when i looked i was amazed thinking i did it!!!
after the film was dry i started the scanning i was happy with results.
and i hope you will like it!
It sure looks like you did everything right!
12-27-2014, 01:34 AM   #10656
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QuoteOriginally posted by ivrabec985 Quote
couple of days ago i decided that i will start developing b&w films
i went shopping and i got all: developer, fixer, kaiser tank, clips....and b&w films
so today i went out with my first ever b&w film. i got home and prepared everything for "the process".
i made my bathroom lightproof and started... what a rush of adrenaline
after the film was in the tank i turned on the light. temperature of developer&fixer was ~20C and i turned on stopwatch...
me against time
after developing i was little scared to look at the film but when i looked i was amazed thinking i did it!!!
after the film was dry i started the scanning i was happy with results.
and i hope you will like it!
These look like great results, well done. I remember my own first developing session (it was only a couple of years ago). It's great to see the negatives hanging there with images on them.
12-27-2014, 05:48 AM   #10657
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
Testing out my new FA20-35/4 using a K2, shooting Portra 160.




Phil.
Great pictures, was it staged?

---------- Post added 12-27-14 at 05:51 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
What is that last picture of?[COLOR="Silver"]
It's a big piece of marble carved in a way to look like a monument or something like that, it's the same place where I took the pic of the other two "traditional" statues.
12-27-2014, 10:29 AM   #10658
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QuoteOriginally posted by LesDMess Quote
That's clever!
QuoteOriginally posted by Cuthbert Quote
Great pictures, was it staged?
Thanks, nope it was painted on a building just like in the photo. The building is an artists warehouse where they do their “creating”, lots of graffiti around the place.

Phil.

12-27-2014, 03:10 PM - 1 Like   #10659
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Zenza Bronica ETRSi
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12-29-2014, 06:05 PM - 2 Likes   #10660
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I have just finished "scanning" over 400 slides using my K5, 35mm/f2.8 macro, a slide holder and a flash. My flash is Sunpak Auto Zoom 3000 from the eighties. I used it on manual at 1/16 power about 30" behind the slide holder. An auto remote flash trigger was used. Focus was not a problem, but getting the slide nicely framed and exposed took more work. Every slide had to be PP adjusted. Here are four to indicate the results obtained.
Slides from the mid eighties on Kodachrome. Pentax MX and M50/1.7 and 100/f4
[IMG]
[IMG]
[IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
12-29-2014, 06:12 PM   #10661
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I think those are great results. Once set up, how long to shoot all 400 of the slides?
12-29-2014, 08:12 PM   #10662
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Our local vet's center is putting together a Vietnam War exhibit. Central to it is this display of nameless, faceless soldiers. I found it haunting.



Pentax ME Super SE, Fuji Acros film.

---------- Post added 12-29-14 at 09:15 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by ivrabec985 Quote
couple of days ago i decided that i will start developing b&w films
i went shopping and i got all: developer, fixer, kaiser tank, clips....and b&w films
so today i went out with my first ever b&w film. i got home and prepared everything for "the process".
i made my bathroom lightproof and started... what a rush of adrenaline
after the film was in the tank i turned on the light. temperature of developer&fixer was ~20C and i turned on stopwatch...
me against time
after developing i was little scared to look at the film but when i looked i was amazed thinking i did it!!!
after the film was dry i started the scanning i was happy with results.
and i hope you will like it!

Pentacon Six + Sonnar 180 + Fomapan 200


Pentacon Six + Sonnar 180 + Fomapan 200


Pentacon Six + Mir26b + Fomapan 200


Pentacon Six + Sonnar 180 + Fomapan 200
I especially like the mushroom shot. Well done. and keep shooting film!
12-29-2014, 10:07 PM   #10663
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QuoteOriginally posted by mattt Quote
I think those are great results. Once set up, how long to shoot all 400 of the slides?
Thank you, it took about four hours. It takes time to pick the slide, make sure it is the right way, fire the camera (on 2 sec delay), check exposure, replace slide and repeat. It is quicker than scanning four at a time, and this now completes the bulk of my scans of over 2000 slides. It is tough to get perfect framing by lining everything up. I had to correct rotation on everyone. Also, a dense slide took less flash than a thin one. I would change power settings from 1/32 to 1/8. The resolution is good, but it is very easy to blow the highs.
12-29-2014, 11:50 PM - 1 Like   #10664
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QuoteOriginally posted by arnold Quote
I have just finished "scanning" over 400 slides using my K5, 35mm/f2.8 macro, a slide holder and a flash. My flash is Sunpak Auto Zoom 3000 from the eighties. I used it on manual at 1/16 power about 30" behind the slide holder. An auto remote flash trigger was used. Focus was not a problem, but getting the slide nicely framed and exposed took more work. Every slide had to be PP adjusted. Here are four to indicate the results obtained.
Very good results for your first try at this. I began "scanning" my slides using a slide dupicator rig I'd cobbled together a few years ago, and duped a couple thousand of mine. I had become disenchanted with the alleged 4800 dpi resolution from my Epson 4990, determining that it was in fact more like 2000 ppi, and I just knew there was more detail than the scanner was giving me. So I started things off by buyiing an Opteka "digital" slide duplicating outfit, which was a tube with a correcting glass element to which a slide holder was attached. It was designed to thread directly onto a 52mm front filter thread, and came with an adapter for 55mm as well. It wasn't too long before I became dissatisfied with this rig. Every time my camera autofocused on a new slide the slide holder turned because the front element of the lens I was using turned. So I had to re-center it. Plus, I was using just a so-so zoom for duping the slides. So I stripped the tube down, got rid of the correcting element, removed the slide holder (which was fixed, with no adjustments) and then I bought a zoom slide duplicator off ebay or somewhere for a few bucks, removed its slide holder, which was held on by clips. I slid this holder onto my stripped down dupe tube's flange. I preferred this arrangement because I could move the holder up and down and side to side. I also found a roll film stage on ebay for a few bucks and bought it. It is held on the same way -- via clips. This gave me the ability to dupe B&W and color negs, as well as unmounted slide strips.

To make it all work, I mounted the tube to my oldie but outstandingly sharp pre-AI 55mm f/3.5 Micro-Nikkor, and then mounted about 25mm of extension behind the Micro-Nikkor, which gave me almost exactly 1:1 at the sensor -- an APS-C sensor. To illuminate the rig, I did much as Arnold. I hooked up an old Canon 420EZ onto a light stand, adjusted its output to 1/16 as I recall, and just held the dupe rig in front of it. I found that about 12" was just about right. I shot at ISO 100 with my Nikkor set to f/8 so I'd have plenty of depth of field to eliminate any out-of-focus issues caused by a slightly curved slide or negative.

This set-up worked great. All the pics of my slides I've posted here were "scanned" with my dupe rig. The biggest issue I had with it was I was limited by my camera's resolution -- 10.1 mp. Which translates into about 2700 ppi. I've wanted something closer to 4000 ppi, which is what the CoolScans provide. To do this required a sensor with over 20 mp resolution. Which I finally got when I recently bought a NEX 7 (24.3 mp, that provides images that are exactly 4000 x 6000 pixels). Actually, since it's an APS-C sensor, the images will have quite a bit better than 4000 ppi resolution. The NEX 7's sensor is 23.5mm x 15.6mm. And if it's giving 4000 pixels per 15.6mm, then that's equivalent to over 6500 pixels per inch! (I'll do the math, if you want) Hah! Let's see a CoolScan do that!

Things have been so hectic around here because of our recent move to our new house that I haven't had a chance to try my dupe rig with my NEX yet, but it's coming -- soon. Anyway, here is a photo of said dupe rig:



The only thing surviving from my Opteka "digital" slide duplicator is the tube and flange, which are screwed into the front of the 55mm Micro Nikkor. Then there's about 25mm of extension tubes attached to the rear of the lens. You'll also note the Nikon to EOS adapter at the very rear of that rig. And below are the slide stage to the left and the roll film stage to the right. One thing I was concerned about that didn't happen was contrast build-up, which is an unavoidable consequence from duping slides onto film. I saw none of it.

The USS Missouri, located at Battleship Row, Bremmerton Washington Naval Shipyard, June, 1995. Canon EOS Rebel, Tamron 24-70 Aspherical zoom, Fujichrome 100.




This big brass seal was laid directly into the deck, such that a person could stand on it, if they desired. (I didn't -- I chose to photograph it instead)



Since I cobbled together my dupe rig, I have come into possession of a couple different bellows -- a Nikon PB4 with slide stage and a Hama-built Spiratone Bellows Master (the one with full view camera style movements). I dunno how useful the Hama will be, but I'm hoping that the PB4 might actually simplify things for me somewhat. I have yet to try it, so I'll just have to wait and see.

At any rate, whichever method I choose, there's one reality that I cannot circumvent and I'm not much looking forward to -- I get to shoot dupes of all my slides, all over again. !!! Urg. And yes, as Arnold mentioned, at least some PP was required with each shot, so we're talking at least a couple months or so of work, doing it as I can find time in my off hours.
12-30-2014, 06:43 AM   #10665
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QuoteOriginally posted by cooltouch Quote
I get to shoot dupes of all my slides, all over again. !!! Urg.
I know what you mean about re-scans. One always thinks a better scan is possible. In the end I will only fuss over the better slides for the last ounce of resolution. Thanks for the detailed explanation; it seems no two setups are the same, although the principle is simple. I love that Missouri - the ultimate battle ship. Good scans too.
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