[Eyewanders]

My initial guess would be that most 135 format macro lenses would probably work better than the 6x7 135/4 for that purpose.

Trouble is I have ZERO close-focus lenses. I'm not sure how that happened... sold off my last one a couple years ago. (You can tell how often I do any macro-ish work). The 135 is not any closer, in fact bit further away but at it's focal length and taking the huge crop factor into consideration, I figured it'd be as close as I could get (without shelling out for a lens for this purpose which I'd rather not do).

... I suppose I could get some tubes and try a bellows approach, I'd just rather have a table setup for ease of chugging through negs. I'm just getting into this.

---------- Post added 07-21-15 at 03:01 PM ----------

Case in point - this min distance with the 31, which has the closest. My narrower lenses are bit further back but the resultant size of the slide in frame is roughly the same. Sigh.

"Now with Hat"

[Eyewanders]

(The moment I said out loud that I didn't want to spend money was followed, roughly 20 minutes later, by me snatching a FA 50mm F2.8 Macro for a good price on the 'Bay)
Sigh. I hope I'm never interrogated.

[Swift1]

(The moment I said out loud that I didn't want to spend money was followed, roughly 20 minutes later, by me snatching a FA 50mm F2.8 Macro for a good price on the 'Bay)
Sigh. I hope I'm never interrogated.

Awesome!

[Eyewanders]

I'm not sure if I posted this shot before here or not. I love it and this particular version which I GR "ghetto scanned" 10 minutes ago is apropos two-fold. Properly setup, the GR could most assuredly take over my medium-format scan workflow, for more even than proofing and web posting I'd wager.

[Clarkey]

Nice work! Kicking it 'ghetto' style for sure.

I've been experimenting with my fuji XE1, home made slide holder, extension tubes, a fast Minolta 50mm and a card board roll. The light source - a tablet. Working ok....

Once I am back from the road, will post some examples.

[cooltouch]

I've been using a dupe rig with my digital cameras for years. First I was using it with my EOS XS, a 10.1mp DSLR. Now I'm using my 24.3mp NEX 7, which gives me 6000x4000 pixel images, same as a Nikon Coolscan. At its core is a 55mm f/3.5 Micro Nikkor, an exceptionally sharp macro lens. Threaded into the 52mm threads on the front of the lens is an old Opteka "digital slide duplicator" tube. I stripped everything else off the tube, including the internal element that allowed for close focusing, so that it's just the tube with the flange on the end, which I use to slide the duplicator attachments onto. One of the nice things about this tube is it's two-piece and can be rotated, which is handy for making sure that the image sits straight. To duplicate my setup, you'll need to scrounge up one of the Opteka digital slide duplicators, which might not be such an easy thing to do. Current models are different from mine and I don't know how well they would work. Anyway, I paid about $55 for the Opteka, where I eventually stripped everything off of it. Kind of expensive for just that tube, but I don't know of an easy substitute to recommend. Here are some detailed pix of my rigs.

This is what I used with my APS-C EOS DSLR:


This is the rig I use with my NEX 7:


I also have a roll-film stage that I use for duping negatives. Both the slide stage and roll film stage have metal clips that fit on the flange of the Opteka tube, allowing the stages to slide on, and be positioned up and down. With the dupe arrangement for the EOS, I'm getting about 80% coverage of slides and negatives. In another words, there's a thin border all the way around the slide image -- it doesn't quite fill the frame. With the NEX7, coverage is slightly more than 100%, meaning the image is cropped, but by a very minor amount. Less than 2% of the image is cropped out, I estimate.

This is the stripped down Opteka tube:



And the slide stage, which I cannibalized from a Cambron zoom slide duplicator, which I bought off eBay for $8:




I kept my eyes peeled for a roll-film stage on eBay and it wasn't too long before one turned up. I think I had to pay about $10 for it. Here's a shot of the dupe rig, showing the roll film stage on the right of the photo.


Here are a couple of images I shot with the dupe outfit and my NEX 7. This first one is a Kodachrome 64 slide:


This one's a Fujichrome 100 slide, circa 1986:

[Eyewanders]

Some fantastic results there!!

[Cuthbert]

I've been using a dupe rig with my digital cameras for years. First I was using it with my EOS XS, a 10.1mp DSLR. Now I'm using my 24.3mp NEX 7, which gives me 6000x4000 pixel images, same as a Nikon Coolscan. At its core is a 55mm f/3.5 Micro Nikkor, an exceptionally sharp macro lens. Threaded into the 52mm threads on the front of the lens is an old Opteka "digital slide duplicator" tube. I stripped everything else off the tube, including the internal element that allowed for close focusing, so that it's just the tube with the flange on the end, which I use to slide the duplicator attachments onto. One of the nice things about this tube is it's two-piece and can be rotated, which is handy for making sure that the image sits straight. To duplicate my setup, you'll need to scrounge up one of the Opteka digital slide duplicators, which might not be such an easy thing to do. Current models are different from mine and I don't know how well they would work. Anyway, I paid about $55 for the Opteka, where I eventually stripped everything off of it. Kind of expensive for just that tube, but I don't know of an easy substitute to recommend. Here are some detailed pix of my rigs.

This is what I used with my APS-C EOS DSLR:


This is the rig I use with my NEX 7:


I also have a roll-film stage that I use for duping negatives. Both the slide stage and roll film stage have metal clips that fit on the flange of the Opteka tube, allowing the stages to slide on, and be positioned up and down. With the dupe arrangement for the EOS, I'm getting about 80% coverage of slides and negatives. In another words, there's a thin border all the way around the slide image -- it doesn't quite fill the frame. With the NEX7, coverage is slightly more than 100%, meaning the image is cropped, but by a very minor amount. Less than 2% of the image is cropped out, I estimate.

This is the stripped down Opteka tube:



And the slide stage, which I cannibalized from a Cambron zoom slide duplicator, which I bought off eBay for $8:




I kept my eyes peeled for a roll-film stage on eBay and it wasn't too long before one turned up. I think I had to pay about $10 for it. Here's a shot of the dupe rig, showing the roll film stage on the right of the photo.


Here are a couple of images I shot with the dupe outfit and my NEX 7. This first one is a Kodachrome 64 slide:


This one's a Fujichrome 100 slide, circa 1986:

Impressive self made copying device!

[45 Mike]

Pentax P30t, Pentax-A 50mm 1.7 and linear polarizing filter.

[Cuthbert]

Sorry guys, i have to make a confession: in the last weekend I visited Stonehenge and a Ford manifestation...so I shot six rolls of film with four different cameras: Leica M4-P, Fujica ST705W, Pentax LX and Canon F-1AE.

I am afraid I'll flood many thread on this board.













Leica M4-P, Ektar 100, Elmarit 90mm 2.8, this is the first time I mentally calculate the exposure with colour.

[gofour3]

A couple more Adox Color Implosion C-41, this time shot at 200 ISO but still processed at 100ISO. A bit more red cast to the shots and a change from the more blue you get at 100ISO. So yes you can change the ISO mid roll and back again with this film, just like a DSLR! (400ISO will give you the "toxic green" cast) Scanning is a bit of pain as you have to do a plain vanilla scan or the scanner will strip off the blue/red/green cast.

All shots are with my Super A and A50/1.7.







Phil.

[arnold]

A couple more Adox Color Implosion C-41, this time shot at 200 ISO but still processed at 100ISO. A bit more red cast to the shots and a change from the more blue you get at 100ISO. So yes you can change the ISO mid roll and back again with this film, just like a DSLR! (400ISO will give you the "toxic green" cast) Scanning is a bit of pain as you have to do a plain vanilla scan or the scanner will strip off the blue/red/green cast. All shots are with my Super A and A50/1.7.

I have seen better film, but also worse, as my scans on the previous page show. The deterioration of Kodak Gold over 22 years shows. Perhaps they were badly processed, but in any event my 50 year old slides still sparkle. Here are a couple more from 1993. The scan of Vancouver shows mottling and poor colour. Top picture shows departure from Vancouver, San Juan Islands and Point Roberts below wiper.

[Cuthbert]

A couple more Adox Color Implosion C-41, this time shot at 200 ISO but still processed at 100ISO. A bit more red cast to the shots and a change from the more blue you get at 100ISO. So yes you can change the ISO mid roll and back again with this film, just like a DSLR! (400ISO will give you the "toxic green" cast) Scanning is a bit of pain as you have to do a plain vanilla scan or the scanner will strip off the blue/red/green cast.

All shots are with my Super A and A50/1.7

Phil.

I especially like the last one with the hooker dummy.

[gofour3]

I have seen better film, but also worse, as my scans on the previous page show.

Yep the old Kodak Gold shots look like what the folks at Adox are trying at achieve with their "Color Implosion" film. It's pretty well a "Lomo" style film, so I shot my two rolls and that's probably the last time I'll use it.

I especially like the last one with the hooker dummy.

Thanks! Yep she and her friends looked like they wanted to escape, but the bars foiled my attempts at rescue!

Phil.

[Cuthbert]

Last Saturday I shot six rolls so I post the images for each roll...

1) Leica M4-P, Elmarit 90 mm f2.8, Ektar 100:



2) Pentax LX, A 35-210, macro function, Ektar 100:



3) Fujica ST705W, 50 mm f1.4, Fuji 200:



4) Fujica ST705W, 50 mm f1.4, XP2, YG filter:



5) Canon F-1AE, FD 50 mm f1.4, Gold 200:



6) Canon F-1 AEm FD 35-105 f3.5-4.5, Superia 200: