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06-07-2016, 06:39 PM   #13501
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QuoteOriginally posted by dsmithhfx Quote
Wow. Would you say it was more, or less effort than your standard scanner workflow?


QuoteOriginally posted by Jacquot Quote
Yes, it did. Sounds like a lot of work for one image, no? I have never done stitching, though. Are the greens normal for Superia? Great Falcon, BTW...
Getting everything set up was a bunch of work, but once set up it's pretty easy. There is a bunch more computer editing work involved. I wouldn't want to do an entire roll this way.
I don't think I got the colors quite right, and the greens a bit too rich.

---------- Post added 06-07-2016 at 06:41 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by arnold Quote
Results are excellent. A lot of work however. I have used both the K5 and K1 to scan slides. By using the 35mm LTD macro, I can just clip the slide holder on the end of the lens - no bellows. The slides on the previous page were done that way, and if you check the road picture full size on Flicker you will be able to judge how much detail can be captured. I use full frame on the K1.
I may try to borrow a Sony A7 to try this with full frame.

06-07-2016, 07:10 PM   #13502
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It also might be an option to set up the camera so the macro shot isn't at the full 1:1 but 1.5:1 (or however the ratio works correctly) so that you fill the aps-c frame with the full 35mm slide without running over, that way you don't have to stitch.
06-07-2016, 08:02 PM   #13503
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QuoteOriginally posted by skierd Quote
It also might be an option to set up the camera so the macro shot isn't at the full 1:1 but 1.5:1 (or however the ratio works correctly) so that you fill the aps-c frame with the full 35mm slide without running over, that way you don't have to stitch.
With the Pentax Bellows II and its slide copier attachment you can't really get the 135 format frame to fit in the APS-C frame... AFAIK...
06-07-2016, 08:25 PM   #13504
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QuoteOriginally posted by Swift1 Quote
With the Pentax Bellows II and its slide copier attachment you can't really get the 135 format frame to fit in the APS-C frame... AFAIK...
I have the K bellows and Pentax Bellows 11 with the slide holder. I tried all sorts of ways to make a practical fast setup using bellows, to no avail. Things don't fit. It is just luck that the slide holder can fit directly on front of the 35mm LTD. All one needs then is a source of light to point at. Auto focus and AV work, but manual is an option. If you use APC it doesn't really matter if you don't fill the frame as far as quality is concerned. Neither does the speed matter since the holder is locked to the camera, remember to turn off shake reduction though.

06-07-2016, 08:40 PM - 1 Like   #13505
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Here are some pictures of the setup. Note you need a ring that screws into the lens and fits the holder. I used one from an old rubber hood.
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06-08-2016, 05:12 AM - 1 Like   #13506
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06-08-2016, 04:54 PM - 4 Likes   #13507
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06-09-2016, 01:36 AM   #13508
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06-09-2016, 10:43 AM - 5 Likes   #13509
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Pentax 67
S-M-C Takumar 6X7 105/2.4
Kodak Ektar 100
Epson V500
06-09-2016, 01:00 PM   #13510
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QuoteOriginally posted by skierd Quote
It also might be an option to set up the camera so the macro shot isn't at the full 1:1 but 1.5:1 (or however the ratio works correctly) so that you fill the aps-c frame with the full 35mm slide without running over, that way you don't have to stitch.
This is what I've done in the past using the FA 50/2.8 Macro (which is what I bought that lens specifically for though I've only used it a handful of time thus far) ... Just filling the sensor results in less than 1:1 but capture far more detail than my flatbed. It's just a pain if you have to set it up, disassemble, and then re-setup each time. Certainly easier with slide as opposed to color neg as well. Overall I've mostly abandoned DSLR for 35mm simply because my Pakon does such a bang-up job in minutes. The DSLR method will be reserved for medium format once I have the space (we'll be moving within the year hopefully) to set it up semi-permanently on a copy table in a dedicated space. At least that's the plan.

---------- Post added 06-09-16 at 01:00 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Swift1 Quote


Pentax 67
S-M-C Takumar 6X7 105/2.4
Kodak Ektar 100
Epson V500
That's exquisite.
06-09-2016, 01:47 PM - 2 Likes   #13511
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QuoteOriginally posted by skierd Quote
It also might be an option to set up the camera so the macro shot isn't at the full 1:1 but 1.5:1 (or however the ratio works correctly) so that you fill the aps-c frame with the full 35mm slide without running over, that way you don't have to stitch.
QuoteOriginally posted by arnold Quote
I have the K bellows and Pentax Bellows 11 with the slide holder. I tried all sorts of ways to make a practical fast setup using bellows, to no avail. Things don't fit. It is just luck that the slide holder can fit directly on front of the 35mm LTD. All one needs then is a source of light to point at. Auto focus and AV work, but manual is an option. If you use APC it doesn't really matter if you don't fill the frame as far as quality is concerned. Neither does the speed matter since the holder is locked to the camera, remember to turn off shake reduction though.
QuoteOriginally posted by chickentender Quote
This is what I've done in the past using the FA 50/2.8 Macro (which is what I bought that lens specifically for though I've only used it a handful of time thus far) ... Just filling the sensor results in less than 1:1 but capture far more detail than my flatbed. It's just a pain if you have to set it up, disassemble, and then re-setup each time. Certainly easier with slide as opposed to color neg as well. Overall I've mostly abandoned DSLR for 35mm simply because my Pakon does such a bang-up job in minutes. The DSLR method will be reserved for medium format once I have the space (we'll be moving within the year hopefully) to set it up semi-permanently on a copy table in a dedicated space. At least that's the plan.

---------- Post added 06-09-16 at 01:00 PM ----------



That's exquisite.
Yesterday I spent a bit more time playing with the Bellows II and Slide Copier setup. Using the Takumar 55/1.8, and with the bellows fully compressed, you are just barely able to get basically the entire 24x36 frame with an APS-C camera. Once everything is set up, digitizing slides is very quick and easy.
I still don't think I'd want to scan color negatives this way on a regular basis. Dealing with inverting and color correction in PP is a PITA, and I can get much better colors from Epson Scan.

Here's my setup





Here's a full frame "scan" of a Kodachrome 64 slide




and here's a 100% crop from that photo

06-09-2016, 02:33 PM   #13512
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QuoteOriginally posted by Swift1 Quote
Yesterday I spent a bit more time playing with the Bellows II and Slide Copier setup. Using the Takumar 55/1.8, and with the bellows fully compressed, you are just barely able to get basically the entire 24x36 frame with an APS-C camera. Once everything is set up, digitizing slides is very quick and easy.
I still don't think I'd want to scan color negatives this way on a regular basis. Dealing with inverting and color correction in PP is a PITA, and I can get much better colors from Epson Scan.

Here's my setup

Here's a full frame "scan" of a Kodachrome 64 slide

and here's a 100% crop from that photo
That looks as I've found in my experience... to have a palpable added amount of detail. I'd be curious to see an Epson scan version of the same. I found a color correction trick involving white balance using the film base. I'll see if I can find it.

---------- Post added 06-09-16 at 03:31 PM ----------

I can't find the write up I found last year which was quite good. Wish I could remember particulars but it centered around setting the camera's (scanning DSLR) WB using the film emulsion itself, and generally just making sure it's set to incandescent or very very warm overall if not setting it manually. Much like this guy, who does it by actually inverting his monitor during a tethered scan with Canon software - pretty brilliant (though the video kinda sucks).

This fella's video however takes on both manual correction as well as ColorPerfect. I've been impressed with CP (despite it's clunky complexity) for quite some time and will probably grab it eventually. The profiles seem very accurate and save you the hassle of creating your own specific actions and separate adjustments for each film emulsion you work/shoot with. That's a big reason I've used Silverfast primarily on the flatbed: a huge number of film profiles that are accurate and quick to apply.

At any rate, I think it's quite possible to reach a DSLR workflow that's both efficient and accurate - I just haven't really tried whole lot yet.
Add stitching to that equation like you've done (but with even more shots) and you can likely get down to resolving grain structure and having a lab-quality, huge print caliber scanned file at home.

Last edited by chickentender; 06-09-2016 at 03:33 PM.
06-09-2016, 04:17 PM   #13513
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Another option for copying 35mm slides was the Pentax Slide Holder K. It is basically an extension tube that gives you 1:1 magnification. You inserted the slide at the end of the tube and pointed the camera towards a light source.

Phil.
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06-09-2016, 05:56 PM   #13514
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
Another option for copying 35mm slides was the Pentax Slide Holder K. It is basically an extension tube that gives you 1:1 magnification. You inserted the slide at the end of the tube and pointed the camera towards a light source.

Phil.
Interesting, where does the lens fit in?
QuoteOriginally posted by Swift1 Quote
Here's a full frame "scan" of a Kodachrome 64 slide
Excellent result!
06-09-2016, 06:44 PM   #13515
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I knew I'd seen a pentax DSLR. Here is another video (think also from PF member):


Looks like he got there pretty much the way you have: Two bellows required.
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