[Clarkey]

Those are good results.

Why, thank you!

Some more Kodachrome uncovered from late seventies. Looking down the side of the stretch DC8, Qantas below dead center, Gardner Island and Lord Howe Island
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Sometimes I think (especially after 11 hours flying) that del mar pacifico lasts forever..... I love peering out the window at night, where every star in creation seems to be lit.

Some more older shots:


Hot water beach by clarke_ag, on Flickr



The mouth of the Mohaka River by clarke_ag, on Flickr

[filoxophy]

Minolta Vectis APS (the original APS format!), wonderfully sharp lenses and compact body. 28-56mm kit

Had to google that...wow, that is the most 90s-looking camera ever!

[edmundrt]

Had to google that...wow, that is the most 90s-looking camera ever!

The Vectis is good fun - I picked up one NOS in box for £10 last year and had a good time with it. The controls are all on the back and the offset viewfinder takes some getting used to, but providing you account for most APS films being expired now it can produce some nice results.

These are with the 28-56 lens, on Kodak Advantix BW400 which I guess is the same emulsion as the old T400CN, BW400CN's predecessor:

[stevebrot]

The Vectis is good fun - I picked up one NOS in box for £10 last year and had a good time with it. The controls are all on the back and the offset viewfinder takes some getting used to, but providing you account for most APS films being expired now it can produce some nice results.

These are with the 28-56 lens, on Kodak Advantix BW400 which I guess is the same emulsion as the old T400CN, BW400CN's predecessor:

Who did you find to do the APS processing?


Steve

[edmundrt]

Who did you find to do the APS processing?

I use Film Developing by Mail Order, 35mm Film Processing, 120 Film Processing for all my film processing, including APS. Good, reliable service, quick turnaround and 10% student discount. They do 110, 126 and 127 processing too, and reprints from disc films!

As for outside the UK, I'm not sure, but there must surely be someone out there who still has a working APS minilab.

[RubyT]

These guys can do APS:
https://thedarkroom.com/

[Swift1]

Pentax 67
S-M-C Takumar 6X7 105/2.4
Kodak Ektar 100
Epson V500

[cooltouch]

Rummaging through more flim shots at my website. Back during the 80s and early to mid-90s I used to drive out to Venice Beach, CA and take pics of the all the people who hung out there.

A conga player. Kodachrome 64, I think. Camera was probable a Canon F-1, unknown lens.


Spring Creek, close to the house where I used to live. Canon IIIa rangefinder, Serenar 50mm f/1.8, Plus X Pan film.


Creekside trees


Steps leading down to the creek bed.


More steps leading to the creek -- played around with exposure and noise for textures.


A friend's 4x5. Canon F-1, Canon 85mm f/1.2 SSC Aspherical @ f/1.2, Kodak Elitechrome


A dead tree, Kern River bottom, Bakersfield, CA, Canon FTb, Canon FL 35mm f/2.5, Kodachrome 64

[Clarkey]

Had to google that...wow, that is the most 90s-looking camera ever!

Yeah, it is a bit.

The Vectis is good fun - I picked up one NOS in box for £10 last year and had a good time with it. The controls are all on the back and the offset viewfinder takes some getting used to, but providing you account for most APS films being expired now it can produce some nice results.

These are with the 28-56 lens, on Kodak Advantix BW400 which I guess is the same emulsion as the old T400CN, BW400CN's predecessor:

Nice. i only tried one roll of that film (Kodak Advantix 400), and found it to have quite a colour cast.
The S-1 LHS rangefinder view personally works well for me as my master eye is my left eye (same as the Fuji GA 645 which is even better as natively portrait). I had the compact Vectis 200 model prior to getting the S-1 and it was capable of suberb results. I did like the APS system for the reason that you could easily change films mid-roll, and the multi-aspect ratio available (I did like using the pano feature) was quite cool. I used mainly Fujifilm Nexia 100 and 200, and Kodak Advantix (ISO 100, I believe). The Konica Centuria 200 was also good.

Alas, all gone now - I didn't look into APS film too much after I got my MZ-5n. A collector grabbed my gear from me more recently in Canada.

If anybody knows of good quality scanning services, do let me know - I (obviously) got mine scanned, but the resolution is lousy (~1.5mb per file).

Some more Vectis S-1 from The Black Mountains in South Wales:

Laden by clarke_ag, on Flickr


Nosy! by clarke_ag, on Flickr


Harvest sunset by clarke_ag, on Flickr

One of my Sisters foals:

Monty by clarke_ag, on Flickr

And some Vectis 200 images from Montreal:

00000514 by clarke_ag, on Flickr


Canal by clarke_ag, on Flickr

[arnold]

If anybody knows of good quality scanning services, do let me know - I (obviously) got mine scanned, but the resolution is lousy (~1.5mb per file).

You can do your own if you have a macro lens and a slide duplicator attachment. I clip mine straight on the end of my 35mm LTD as it is only about 3" long. In daylight, just point it at a bright area and shoot. More details if you want. Here is one I just did that way with the K5

[cooltouch]

Hey Arnold, I for one would like very much to read about how you do your slide duplicating. I've been doing it for a few years now. Got started with a 10.1mp EOS DSLR, which did a good job, but I decided after a while to hold off until I got a camera with more resolution. Now I have one -- a Sony NEX 7 with 24.3mp, which gives 4000 pix on the vertical, same as a Nikon CoolScan scanner that costs thousands.

To get my slides to fill the frame as much as possible, I've been using an old Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 with about 25mm of extension. To the front of the lens, I have mounted the shell of a digital slide duplicator I bought, then dismantled. So I have a slide carrier that slides onto the front flange of this duplicator tube, plus I also have a roll film stage that I can also slide onto the tube, and I use this for unmounted slides as well as negatives. Here's a shot of v1.0 of my setup. V2.0 is now set to use a Nikon to NEX adapter. The adapter shown in the following photo is a Nikon to EOS adapter.



And here are a few slides I duped with this rig, using my NEX 7:






(Please ignore the dust and the spot on the sensor I managed to miss)

[arnold]

Hey Arnold, I for one would like very much to read about how you do your slide duplicating.

It seems you are doing alright, anyway here is my operation. Screw an adapter ring (from a rubber lens hood) onto the filter (49mm) threads of the LTD 35mm macro. Lock the slide copier onto the lens. The distance works out for filling the frame. I then turn off shake reduction, and select manual drive and manual focus. The latter is an option. select aperture and adjust speed to get proper exposure. Slow speeds don't matter as the slide is connected to the lens. A bright sky helps bring out dark slides.

---------- Post added 27-02-15 at 16:39 ----------

Pentax 67
S-M-C Takumar 6X7 105/2.4
Kodak Ektar 100
Epson V500

The guy in the doorway makes this.

[Jonathan Mac]

The plant shots were quite under-exposed and I had to boost them in the scan. I need to remember not to trust the camera's meter when using extension tubes.


Portra 400 023a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


Portra 400 034a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr


Portra 400 033a by Jonathan_in_Madrid, on Flickr

[arnold]

This is scanned with my K5 off Kodak 400 film. Taken with MX and M100/f4 late seventies.

[cooltouch]

Hey Arnold, thanks for the additional information. I had to google your lens, because I wasn't familiar with it. Apparently it is a highly respected macro lens -- with a lofty price to match, I might add. And I note you're using a bellows-fit slide copier. So, since you're apparently not mounting your lens to a bellows, I'm assuming you're leaving the copier's bellows clipped into its retracted position as well. Which is interesting, if so, because it is locating your subject very close to your lens.

I have a couple of bellows, one with a copier attachment, and I haven't bothered yet trying them out to see how well they'd work. But perhaps I should. If I can get a bit closer to filling the frame with the image, that would be nice.