[Eyewanders]

Really nice work, Kevin!

Muchas gracias mi amigo!

[bjolester]

Pentax MX + Voigtlander Ultron 40/2.0 + Kodak Ektar 100


Autumn Lake by bjolester, on Flickr

[Swift1]

Canon 7 Rangefinder
1930s collapsible FED 50/3.5 Soviet Elmar
Expired Ferrania Solaris 200
Epson V750

[bjolester]

Pentax MX + Voigtlander Ultron 40/2.0 + Kodak Ektar 100


Autumn Leaves II by bjolester, on Flickr

[Russell W. Barnes]

Thought I'd have me a go at this colour developing lark... Here's a shot from the first colour film I've developed: Fuji 400 Pro; Tetenal C-41 kit, 30C at 8 minutes in Paterson tank. I'll get a 35mm colour film through the MX or ME Super in due course, but this is a 6x6 from the Mess-Baldix.

[dsmithhfx]

b+w 400

[twilhelm]

Thought I'd have me a go at this colour developing lark... Here's a shot from the first colour film I've developed: Fuji 400 Pro; Tetenal C-41 kit, 30C at 8 minutes in Paterson tank. I'll get a 35mm colour film through the MX or ME Super in due course, but this is a 6x6 from the Mess-Baldix.

The colors look great. I’ve been developing my own color film since January and find it’s quite enjoyable and not nearly as difficult as I thought it would be.

[Russell W. Barnes]

I’ve been developing my own color film since January and find it’s quite enjoyable and not nearly as difficult as I thought it would be.

It's good fun. I did a 'dummy run' to see how long I could maintain a 30 degree bath for with three bottles of stuff in there (dev, blix and initial soak/rinse water - I keep the stab in another tub as it's not so temperature-critical, so there's room to dunk my tank in the sink which I agitate with the little 'twiddle-stick') and with that in mind, went ahead. Of course, all the chems are shiny and new and I'll need to concentrate on colour film for a bit, doing two lots of 35mm simultaneously when I do 35mm to get more bangs for my buck. I'll have to keep a tally of films I develop too or else wait for one to turn out not so good before extending my development times.

The journey from neg to Flickr goes as follows:- Copied on my lightbox with tripod-mounted Sony RX100 II in RAW, manual focus, 100 ISO and underexposed by half a stop (helps with the autofocus). Sony ARW RAW file into 8 bit TIFF in the Sony software, then into Lightroom 3 where I can use Photoshop 7 for inverting the image (Irfanview can do this too). I use 'Auto Levels' and 'Auto Colour' on Photoshop which removes the orange cast, and adjust levels and gamma as necessary.

I read about a good tip to photo a white or grey sheet somewhere on one photograph so that the correct white level can be picked up as a reference. But one shot on a 120 film equals three shots on a 35mm film and I don't want to squander a frame on such-like.

[Ediz7531]

Pacifica, CA.
Pentax H3V, S-M-C Takumar 35mm f/3.5, Ektar.

[abruzzi]

It's good fun. I did a 'dummy run' to see how long I could maintain a 30 degree bath for with three bottles of stuff in there (dev, blix and initial soak/rinse water - I keep the stab in another tub as it's not so temperature-critical, so there's room to dunk my tank in the sink which I agitate with the little 'twiddle-stick') and with that in mind, went ahead.

I fill the tub with 120 degree water and once the temps all stabilize a little too hot, I just wait for it to cool down. This works well for a single tank, but could be more of a hassle if you want to do a bunch of developing. A lot of people use sous vide machines to maintain the water temperature, but Cinestill just came out withe a modified machine:

°Cs "Temperature Control System", TCS-1000 Immersion Circulator Thermo ? CineStill Film

Its basically a sous vide machine but with some extra features. It has development timers, so you don't need to use your phone as a timer. It does lower temperatures than the cooking machines, which would be good to heat cold water to 20C for B&W developing in the winter. It not as cheap as a sous vide, but its not expensive either--$100.

[Russell W. Barnes]

I fill the tub with 120 degree water and once the temps all stabilize a little too hot, I just wait for it to cool down. This works well for a single tank, but could be more of a hassle if you want to do a bunch of developing.

I thought I had an old coolbox down the shed, but noooo... It's been thrown out. I thought that would've made a nice tank for maintaining the temp. I start high too, as the temperature can only fall! On the scale of stuff I'm doing, the kitchen sink is fine. But that Cinestill thing is a good idea. I stand my stabiliser bowl on a polystyrene sheet to minimise heat loss.

[g026r]

Testing out the F-1's metering in low light.





Canon F-1.
Canon FD 50mm f1.8 (Picture 1)/Vivitar Macro Lens (90/9.2 or Series 1 105/2.5. Picture 2.)
CineStill 800T

[dsmithhfx]

[twilhelm]

Great colors! What film were you using?

[dsmithhfx]

Great colors! What film were you using?

Superia 400

Also I use channel mixer to modify color luminance in PP (among other things)