Looking for service manual: MZ-5n and MZ-50

peteM · 10-15-2010, 04:22 PM

Do the repair instructions you posted apply as well the ZX-L? I have been experiancing the same mirror lock up issue. Local camera shop estimated $200 plus two way shipping to repair.

ysmin7 · 02-16-2011, 08:27 AM

Originally posted by Azrael

Hi CGJung,

I have the same problem with my MZ50. I ask a Pentax technician about. He told me that it's a weakness of olds MZ50. The cog set in the motor axis that brings down the mirror is made of plastic. Whereas the axis is made of metal. Then the cog and the motor axis become no more joined.

That was his explanation. Do you still need a service manual ?

I need the service manual to repair the mirror box of MZ-5. If you have it and you'll share it with me, I'll be happy to receive it.

Thanks.

GerryL · 02-16-2011, 04:24 PM

Here's one thread about it with some photos on repair: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-film-slr-discussion/39450-mz5n-mir...ce-manual.html
I've been lurking around the SLR part of this forum recently because I want to experiment on going back to film since I miss it.
I'm researching on what film (Pentax) camera would be good so I can use my lenses for my K100D super.
So far, the cameras I seem to want are the plastic kinds (AF types) that break like the MZ-5n.
Hmmm...makes me want to forget this endeavor altogether.

I'm kinda handy with the soldering iron but am now kinda lazy nowadays..

violini · 02-16-2011, 08:23 PM

MZ-5N is better for use with lenses with aperture ring. It has penta-prism, the viewfinder is brighter and cleaner. MZ-6 is good for aperture ringless lens, but the penta-mirror VF is small and dirt can get into VF compartment. So I have these two cameras. Pentax shouldn't use plastic gear on 15K rpm motor. Replacing the motor is fairly straight forward: 14 wire solder points and 6 posts, that's all there is to it. Bob Bimon's instruction is a lot more useful than the service manual. The drawings on the service manual are so small; it's more useful for dealer to order replacement parts rather than for learning how the camera works. Some components simply listed as a block, e.g., shutter block, and on the gear box, diaphragm controlling block, no detailed parts are listed.

Last edited by violini; 02-27-2011 at 09:50 AM.

GerryL · 02-26-2011, 07:29 PM

I finally bit the bullet and decided on a ZX-5n.
Bought a ZX-5n with shutter stuck open, so I will be repairing this myself.
I am thanking everybody who contributed to this thread in advance specially to Bob for recording his repairs.
Thanks to Sluggo too for the link to where to buy the part/motor.
I just hope now that I do everything right and will be able to revive this fine camera!
I will update on this and share my experience so that others may also find this informative.
Keeping my fingers crossed!

violini · 02-27-2011, 09:46 AM

I've done 7 5N's, one #7, and one #50 for free of labor and therefore, become quite proficient. I feel great for saving these cameras from being thrown into the landfill. I bought for myself a MZ-6, the latest Made in Japan version; it has brass gear on the mirror motor shaft installed in the factory.

GerryL · 02-27-2011, 09:07 PM

Originally posted by violini

I've done 7 5N's, one #7, and one #50 for free of labor and therefore, become quite proficient. I feel great for saving these cameras from being thrown into the landfill. I bought for myself a MZ-6, the latest Made in Japan version; it has brass gear on the mirror motor shaft installed in the factory.

That's great Violini!
You must be able to do it now with your eyes closed..

I used to repair 2 way VHF radios for buddies way back when..but my eyes where better then. I also used to do everything for free.
It is because of your posts and everybody who contributed that gave me the confidence to do this!
I will read all the walk-through's (yours and Bob's included) and all the tips before I open the camera to familiarize myself with everything.
I also bought a solder wick since they work far better than the solder sucker at times.
I passed on bidding on a ZX-L after I already bought the non-working ZX-5n a day early.
I'll try to fix the ZX-5n first and try it out if I revive it.
If I turn to like the 5n, then i may no longer look for an "L" or "6".
I'm also on the lookout now for an MX for the fully manual camera that won't easily break!
I hope I can PM you in case I will have any query about the ZX-5n fix?
Thanks for everybody!

violini · 02-28-2011, 09:23 AM

Copper braid works better than de-soldering pump, particularly at battery negative contact to flex. board and the pin to flex. board. I don't know what is this pin for; underneath it is a piece of metal with a hole at the center. It is connected to the battery pack when it is used, but is not connected to negative. Right beside the pin is a short black wire from flash board and it's negative. Clean up the solder well so the black plastic backing can be lifted up. Don't remove solder at other wire connections. I use tweezers to pull the wire while heating the solder.

I tape the screws on a sheet of paper with masking tape and write down where they come from. On the bottom cover, one screw is shorter on one side of the battery door. Mark the screw holes on the bottom metal plate. The two screws near the lens mount are different. When assembling, I go through the reverse order so no screws would be lost or left over. Yes, pm me should you encounter any problem.

GerryL · 02-28-2011, 08:46 PM

Yup, I have tweezers too just for electronic stuff. Some have rubber tips too to prevent shorting boards.
..and yes, I was the one who bought from the guy from Florida.
I PM'ed him first to make sure that he didn't try to fix it himself and put it back together when he couldn't. He said that he didn't and left it when it broke down.
I will keep you guys updated as I want to do this myself to see if I can still do things like these or my patience in doing so haven't waned..haha..
I learn a lot from opening stuff up!
Thanks again for the offer to help me if I ever need help!

Now, I just need the camera to arrive.

Rob D · 04-20-2011, 12:01 PM

Dear Bob Bimon I have changed the mirrormotor from the Pentax MZ50 as you discribed the mirror went down but when you put a film in the camera. The camera will not transport the film so the shutter will not work. So I think Ihave to resynchronise the shutter. I hope that I don't have to dismantle the camera again. I hope to hear from you
Greetings Rob D

10-15-2010, 04:22 PM	#16
peteM New Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 3	Mirror Issue with ZX-L Do the repair instructions you posted apply as well the ZX-L? I have been experiancing the same mirror lock up issue. Local camera shop estimated $200 plus two way shipping to repair.

02-27-2011, 09:46 AM	#21
violini Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Winnipeg MB Photos: Gallery Posts: 350	I've done 7 5N's, one #7, and one #50 for free of labor and therefore, become quite proficient. I feel great for saving these cameras from being thrown into the landfill. I bought for myself a MZ-6, the latest Made in Japan version; it has brass gear on the mirror motor shaft installed in the factory. Last edited by violini; 02-27-2011 at 05:35 PM.

02-28-2011, 09:23 AM	#23
violini Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Winnipeg MB Photos: Gallery Posts: 350	Copper braid works better than de-soldering pump, particularly at battery negative contact to flex. board and the pin to flex. board. I don't know what is this pin for; underneath it is a piece of metal with a hole at the center. It is connected to the battery pack when it is used, but is not connected to negative. Right beside the pin is a short black wire from flash board and it's negative. Clean up the solder well so the black plastic backing can be lifted up. Don't remove solder at other wire connections. I use tweezers to pull the wire while heating the solder. I tape the screws on a sheet of paper with masking tape and write down where they come from. On the bottom cover, one screw is shorter on one side of the battery door. Mark the screw holes on the bottom metal plate. The two screws near the lens mount are different. When assembling, I go through the reverse order so no screws would be lost or left over. Yes, pm me should you encounter any problem. Last edited by violini; 02-28-2011 at 06:41 PM.

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02-16-2011, 08:27 AM	#17
ysmin7 New Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 7	Originally posted by Azrael Hi CGJung, I have the same problem with my MZ50. I ask a Pentax technician about. He told me that it's a weakness of olds MZ50. The cog set in the motor axis that brings down the mirror is made of plastic. Whereas the axis is made of metal. Then the cog and the motor axis become no more joined. That was his explanation. Do you still need a service manual ? I need the service manual to repair the mirror box of MZ-5. If you have it and you'll share it with me, I'll be happy to receive it. Thanks.

02-16-2011, 04:24 PM	#18
GerryL Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: CA Posts: 2,731	Here's one thread about it with some photos on repair: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-film-slr-discussion/39450-mz5n-mir...ce-manual.html I've been lurking around the SLR part of this forum recently because I want to experiment on going back to film since I miss it. I'm researching on what film (Pentax) camera would be good so I can use my lenses for my K100D super. So far, the cameras I seem to want are the plastic kinds (AF types) that break like the MZ-5n. Hmmm...makes me want to forget this endeavor altogether. I'm kinda handy with the soldering iron but am now kinda lazy nowadays..

02-16-2011, 08:23 PM	#19
violini Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Winnipeg MB Photos: Gallery Posts: 350	MZ-5N is better for use with lenses with aperture ring. It has penta-prism, the viewfinder is brighter and cleaner. MZ-6 is good for aperture ringless lens, but the penta-mirror VF is small and dirt can get into VF compartment. So I have these two cameras. Pentax shouldn't use plastic gear on 15K rpm motor. Replacing the motor is fairly straight forward: 14 wire solder points and 6 posts, that's all there is to it. Bob Bimon's instruction is a lot more useful than the service manual. The drawings on the service manual are so small; it's more useful for dealer to order replacement parts rather than for learning how the camera works. Some components simply listed as a block, e.g., shutter block, and on the gear box, diaphragm controlling block, no detailed parts are listed. Last edited by violini; 02-27-2011 at 09:50 AM.

02-26-2011, 07:29 PM	#20
GerryL Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: CA Posts: 2,731	I finally bit the bullet and decided on a ZX-5n. Bought a ZX-5n with shutter stuck open, so I will be repairing this myself. I am thanking everybody who contributed to this thread in advance specially to Bob for recording his repairs. Thanks to Sluggo too for the link to where to buy the part/motor. I just hope now that I do everything right and will be able to revive this fine camera! I will update on this and share my experience so that others may also find this informative. Keeping my fingers crossed!

02-27-2011, 09:07 PM	#22
GerryL Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: CA Posts: 2,731	Originally posted by violini I've done 7 5N's, one #7, and one #50 for free of labor and therefore, become quite proficient. I feel great for saving these cameras from being thrown into the landfill. I bought for myself a MZ-6, the latest Made in Japan version; it has brass gear on the mirror motor shaft installed in the factory. That's great Violini! You must be able to do it now with your eyes closed.. I used to repair 2 way VHF radios for buddies way back when..but my eyes where better then. I also used to do everything for free. It is because of your posts and everybody who contributed that gave me the confidence to do this! I will read all the walk-through's (yours and Bob's included) and all the tips before I open the camera to familiarize myself with everything. I also bought a solder wick since they work far better than the solder sucker at times. I passed on bidding on a ZX-L after I already bought the non-working ZX-5n a day early. I'll try to fix the ZX-5n first and try it out if I revive it. If I turn to like the 5n, then i may no longer look for an "L" or "6". I'm also on the lookout now for an MX for the fully manual camera that won't easily break! I hope I can PM you in case I will have any query about the ZX-5n fix? Thanks for everybody!

02-28-2011, 08:46 PM	#24
GerryL Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: CA Posts: 2,731	Yup, I have tweezers too just for electronic stuff. Some have rubber tips too to prevent shorting boards. ..and yes, I was the one who bought from the guy from Florida. I PM'ed him first to make sure that he didn't try to fix it himself and put it back together when he couldn't. He said that he didn't and left it when it broke down. I will keep you guys updated as I want to do this myself to see if I can still do things like these or my patience in doing so haven't waned..haha.. I learn a lot from opening stuff up! Thanks again for the offer to help me if I ever need help! Now, I just need the camera to arrive.

04-20-2011, 12:01 PM	#25
Rob D New Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Anna Paulowna Posts: 2	Dear Bob Bimon I have changed the mirrormotor from the Pentax MZ50 as you discribed the mirror went down but when you put a film in the camera. The camera will not transport the film so the shutter will not work. So I think Ihave to resynchronise the shutter. I hope that I don't have to dismantle the camera again. I hope to hear from you Greetings Rob D