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03-30-2009, 02:46 PM   #31
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I've only just started with film and like you are trying to find a good brand and versatile ISO speed. Out of Fuji Superia 200 and 400 X-Tra, I like 400 X-Tra.
I've looked at Kodak examples on PBase searches briefly and the colors just don't do it for me. Everyone has their favorites though.

03-30-2009, 05:31 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by artobest Quote
Great shot! Funny and delightful.
Thanks!...
03-30-2009, 05:42 PM   #33
mer
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i would shoot slide film

I would choose velvia 50(or 100) for day and provia 400x for afternoon and a couple of rolls of provia 400x pushed to 1600 for nightshots... and show my slides using a projector , make my classmates drool
03-30-2009, 06:19 PM   #34
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400X is really expensive, although i saw last week that B&H has it now for a more palatable $9 a roll. i use it on MF where it's much cheaper and it's awesome.

03-30-2009, 10:18 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by alex.r Quote
Pardon me for my ignorance, but when you say "exposure latitude", which slide film does not have, is this being corrected by my photolab when processing/printing? Or is this latitude somehow a characteristic of the film? How does this work?
The nature of negative film allows a lab to make ajustments while printing much more easily than with slide film. An overly thin negative (underexposed) tends to lose detail rather quickly in the thin spots, hence 1 stop under, while a dense negative (overexposed) can be overexposed onto the print, salvaging a lot of the highlight details. With a slide, what you see is what you get. Some slides can be salvaged through duplication, but it is still a much narrower range of exposure that can be recorded.

I am told that part of the reason a negative is easier to print is the orange mask that underlays the image. I have no idea how that works.
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