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03-31-2009, 11:05 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Not exactly...

The light meter will provide settings that will result in 18% gray.

-- point it at snow...18% gray

-- point it at coal...18% gray
Whille this may seem scary...how often are you gonna be shooting a smooth, perfectly illuminated (ie, no shadows or highlights) piece of coal or pile o' snow?

04-01-2009, 04:59 AM   #17
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When in doubt point your camera to the back of your hand
Meter the light and use that metering.

QuoteOriginally posted by lithos Quote
Whille this may seem scary...how often are you gonna be shooting a smooth, perfectly illuminated (ie, no shadows or highlights) piece of coal or pile o' snow?
04-01-2009, 10:22 PM   #18
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Titrisol, that is an awesome tip. Probably need to dial in a little EV comp if you're black, though.

Those kinda tips I can use. Rulebooks that are longer than the Falcon 4.0 manual...no. No thanks.
04-02-2009, 09:33 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithos Quote
Titrisol, that is an awesome tip. Probably need to dial in a little EV comp if you're black, though.

Those kinda tips I can use. Rulebooks that are longer than the Falcon 4.0 manual...no. No thanks.
Strangely, skin color doesn't seem to matter. Nearly everyone's skin is close to 18% grey when metered. Try it with your friends sometime...

04-02-2009, 09:41 AM   #20
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I don't know about other people. But I have a 18% grey card that I carry with me and I know that my skin is the not the shade as the grey card. In fact the back of my hand is exactly 1 stop lighter than the grey card.



QuoteOriginally posted by OregonJim Quote
Strangely, skin color doesn't seem to matter. Nearly everyone's skin is close to 18% grey when metered. Try it with your friends sometime...
04-02-2009, 09:53 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by cousinsane Quote
I don't know about other people. But I have a 18% grey card that I carry with me and I know that my skin is the not the shade as the grey card. In fact the back of my hand is exactly 1 stop lighter than the grey card.
You need to get out in the sun a little more...

Steve

(Just kidding...my understanding is that the rule of thumb is as you describe for most Caucasians.)
04-02-2009, 10:02 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithos Quote
Titrisol, that is an awesome tip. Probably need to dial in a little EV comp if you're black, though.

Those kinda tips I can use. Rulebooks that are longer than the Falcon 4.0 manual...no. No thanks.
Using the back of the hand or a gray (grey?) card is a real good option for tricky lighting conditions. It is equivalent to using an incident light meter.

Steve
04-02-2009, 10:05 AM   #23
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LOL.

more than 10 characters.

QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
You need to get out in the sun a little more...

Steve


04-02-2009, 11:33 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by cousinsane Quote
I don't know about other people. But I have a 18% grey card that I carry with me and I know that my skin is the not the shade as the grey card. In fact the back of my hand is exactly 1 stop lighter than the grey card.
I should have clarified... I was speaking of the PALM of the hand, which is much more consistent across all humans...
04-02-2009, 09:20 PM   #25
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Since both my cameras only have center-weighted metering, I rely on basic knowledge of EV comp, a handy sunny 16 chart, and the palm of my hand +1 exposure rule.


Basic knowledge of EV comp is knowing how to work the center-weighted meter, to accurately keep the 'mood' of dimmer scenes, or keep snowy bright ones crisp and white. Usually only a stop or less off the recommended reading in doing so (more often under than over)

The chart comes in handy for setting baselines for things like performers on stage, night streets, etc where 'darkness' or shadow detail constitutes a large portion of the frame. 1/30th @ f/4 @ ISO 400 is my most referred one, and a few others for sunsets/moon shots. I keep it taped in a front cover of a notebook. I can't find a copy online at the moment.

Tricky lighting and a wide lens?... stick my palm in front of the camera and open up one stop. (make sure palm is in the light you want to record as 'average'). Then refer to the first method.

I find it easier and easier to 'pre-set' the exposure based on experience, then check it in the viewfinder. I can't imagine piddling about with a spot meter and mental math. Mostly it's finding a useable 'middle' reading, and then deciding how much I'm willing to blow it out or block it up in relation to the intended composition. (Metering the sidewalk from inside a cafe, then opening up 2 stops for example).
04-03-2009, 07:02 AM   #26
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There is plenty of good advice in the 'understanding exposure' book, even if that book is oriented towards color. Some tricks that I hadn't known before, such as metering the north sky.

Basically I'm with CSoars... though I'd add - sometimes metering lawn or pavement is good, again with the +/- adjustment in mind.
04-03-2009, 09:56 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by CSoars Quote

...The chart comes in handy for setting baselines for things like performers on stage, night streets, etc where 'darkness' or shadow detail constitutes a large portion of the frame. 1/30th @ f/4 @ ISO 400 is my most referred one, and a few others for sunsets/moon shots. I keep it taped in a front cover of a notebook. I can't find a copy online at the moment...
Can you post your sunny 16 chart? I used to have one and found it very useful, but lost it at some point.

Steve
04-03-2009, 10:19 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Can you post your sunny 16 chart? I used to have one and found it very useful, but lost it at some point.

Steve
A-ha! Found it on my HD...

04-03-2009, 10:22 AM   #29
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An exposure chart for your pocket! - Rangefinderforum.com
04-08-2009, 03:43 PM   #30
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Thanks for the exposure charts! Very, very helpful...

Steve
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