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04-07-2009, 01:31 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by brkl Quote
Well I've never seen a convincing example.
define convincing, i'm doing a debate in another thread..

here is a 2000X1300 image, downsampled from the original 6000X4000 tiff, when i get home if you want i can send you the original..

but i think this is pretty good, for semi hand held @ 1/6th

http://fork.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p741806843.jpg

04-07-2009, 02:31 PM   #32
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Example of that a negative scanned at a little over 13MP is good enough. The image is sharpened a little bit.

I can scan it again at a higher resolution if anyone is interested?


Original image:



100% crop



100% crop
04-07-2009, 02:45 PM   #33
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final resolution has little to do with a scanners ability to record information within the frame, (real dpi)

this is where scanner testing and scanner reviews come in.

also, for best results images should be scanned at native dpi, whatever that is.
04-07-2009, 07:12 PM   #34
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native dpi

How to find native dpi for a particular scanner?

04-07-2009, 08:01 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by ddhytz Quote
How to find native dpi for a particular scanner?
usually its the advertised number..

this is a good site

Test reports film scanner: Reviews, experiences, comparison, overview: Nikon, reflecta, Plustek, Canon, Microtek, Quato, Umax

also, check out this thread

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-processing-printing-software/55500-f...ns-anyone.html
04-07-2009, 09:27 PM   #36
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Great thread guys. I have an HP Scanner and many folks would agree that it is a great scanner but the HP software is garbage. I would have to agree. Since hooking it up with Vue Scan, I get really good results. While researching this, it seems that it comes down to Silver fast or vue scan...

As for the DR range of film VS digital, I have the Fuji S100FS that has the built in fuji modes for different films. It has the same basic processor as the S5pro.. While it does a good job at film simulation, it is NOT film.
04-07-2009, 11:48 PM   #37
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Gooshin : Enfuse works great, sure, but not for portraits... Can't imagine how I could shoot three pics in a row without my kid moving a full mile between each... And yeah, I'm talking about a 3fps burst (kids are that fast, at least mine!).

Maybe with the 20fps high speed burst, but I'd then be limited to a 1.5MP pic (just enough for a 4x6).

Hey, that just gave me an idea... I'll give it a try tonight, a showdown between:
- a regular 3200 iso shot
- a 20fps 3200 iso burst, stacked with enfuse (EDIT : I mean, averaged with enfuse)
- a 20fps 800 iso burst, stacked with enfuse (EDIT : I mean, each pic is shoot with a reduced exposure, then all the partial exposure are added)

All this with "moving targets"... The 20fps burst would only allow for 4x6 prints, but 3200 iso is not that much better anyway...

Last edited by dlacouture; 04-08-2009 at 08:11 AM.
04-08-2009, 06:36 AM   #38
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keep in mind that you only need a medium capable of recording high dynamic range in a scene that has high dynamic range...

shooting a low DR scene with a high DR film is almost pointless.


===

another point to mention is that getting a flash gun with a swivel head can help reduce the need for the sensor to have high DR by simply filling in the light!

04-08-2009, 08:16 AM   #39
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Well, I shoot exclusively my kids in all kind of situations, so I'm not into scenery or architecture, but even there a high-DR medium is paramount...

I'd even go as far as saying that it's nearly the only kind of picture where a high DR medium is necessary, as scenery or architecture can be handled by bracketing, whereas portraits are restricted to one shot only...
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