[John Brown]

Who is this "Eric" that I see reference to, that does CLA's?

[LesDMess]

Who is this "Eric" that I see reference to, that does CLA's?

The goto Pentax repair guy -> Pentax Camera Repair

There is a sticky post -> Change of Address for Eric

There is a counterpoint thread Can't recommend Eric any longer but I believe there are far more thumbs up then there are thumbs down.

Another thread with many more pages of comments -> Pentax repair by Eric Hendrickson

[monochrome]

Who is this "Eric" that I see reference to, that does CLA's?

He’s CLA’ed over 40 cameras for me since 2009 (half of them sold on to get something else) and repaired many a damaged or dried out lens. If you have a mechanical Pentax that’s needs a once over, get it done now. Eric is getting old.

There is a younger technician at Advance Camera in (I believe) Portland who is developing a good reputation.

www.pentaxs.com/

[cooltouch]

I may as well toss in a good word for the camera techs I use, who happen to be local to me. But they do mail order. Professional Camera Repair. They work on everything, from antique view cameras to DSLRs. They are fast, reasonably priced, but most importantly, they do good work. I had them do a CLA on my LX a couple years ago, and they did a good job.

Professional Camera Repair - Houston, Texas, Sensor Cleaning, Digital Camera Repair, Film Camera Repair, Medium and Large Format Camera Repairs

[butangmucat]

Taken from my still life practice today. My Spotmatic F, serviced by Eric two years ago, and with three lenses:

- CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 electric (serviced by a famed Chinese technician this winter for sticky aperture blades)
- Mir-1A 37/2.8 (serviced by the same technician for stiff helicoid)
- Volna-9 50/2.8 Macro (bought near mint in China, and very sound mechanically without the need of service)

For my M42 system I don't use my two Takumars (35/2 and 50/1.4) that much because of the yellowing, and usually the to-go lens is a tough battle between the Volna-9 or the Pancolar.

通过我的 moto x4 上的 Tapatalk发言

[Jonathan Mac]

For my M42 system I don't use my two Takumars (35/2 and 50/1.4) that much because of the yellowing

Why don't you get rid of the yellowing with some exposure to UV light?

[butangmucat]

Why don't you get rid of the yellowing with some exposure to UV light?

I've tried the IKEA lamp method, but apparently my lenses are too old and considerable yellowing still exists after several days of treatment. For now my Takumars are mostly used as adapted glass on my digital or used with B/W film.

通过我的 moto x4 上的 Tapatalk发言

[monochrome]

I've tried the IKEA lamp method, but apparently my lenses are too old and considerable yellowing still exists after several days of treatment. For now my Takumars are mostly used as adapted glass on my digital or used with B/W film.

通过我的 moto x4 上的 Tapatalk发言

The standard windowsill / sunlight on the rear element with aluminum foil wrapped around the front for a week or two works. My S-M-C Tak 50/1.4 is gin clear after that treatment.

[abruzzi]

I've tried the IKEA lamp method, but apparently my lenses are too old and considerable yellowing still exists after several days of treatment.

In my experience the IKEA lamp method takes far more than a couple of days. I have a yellowed 105 f2.4 and after three weeks it was significantly decreased but not gone.

[John Brown]

Let me introduce a freebie I was given a few days ago. "I don't think it works, maybe you can make it work."

OK....a new battery arrived today and EVERYTHING works. The body is in nice shape. The lens has been around the block a few times cosmetically, but the glass looks great.

[butangmucat]

The standard windowsill / sunlight on the rear element with aluminum foil wrapped around the front for a week or two works. My S-M-C Tak 50/1.4 is gin clear after that treatment.

Unfortunately sunny days are a luxury here in Saratoga. Might be able to do that once I graduate and return back home for the summer.

通过我的 moto x4 上的 Tapatalk发言

---------- Post added 02-02-19 at 11:15 AM ----------

In my experience the IKEA lamp method takes far more than a couple of days. I have a yellowed 105 f2.4 and after three weeks it was significantly decreased but not gone.

Unfortunately I broke my last IKEA lamp, might just get a new one.

通过我的 moto x4 上的 Tapatalk发言

[TheRealMrBlue]

I have 12 Pentax film bodies but this these are my favorites:

[Cuthbert]

Taken from my still life practice today. My Spotmatic F, serviced by Eric two years ago, and with three lenses:

- CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 electric (serviced by a famed Chinese technician this winter for sticky aperture blades)
- Mir-1A 37/2.8 (serviced by the same technician for stiff helicoid)
- Volna-9 50/2.8 Macro (bought near mint in China, and very sound mechanically without the need of service)

For my M42 system I don't use my two Takumars (35/2 and 50/1.4) that much because of the yellowing, and usually the to-go lens is a tough battle between the Volna-9 or the Pancolar.

通过我的 moto x4 上的 Tapatalk发言

IMO the SPF is the best M42 camer ever made (even if the Fujica ST705W is a strong contender), I have three of them, including an Honeywell that came with box and documents, along with two Tak 1.4...yes they are yellow but I don't find it disturbing at all, with color they give a pleasant "warming" effect that you usually get with a cloudy filter.

[monochrome]

IMO the SPF is the best M42 camer ever made (even if the Fujica ST705W is a strong contender), I have three of them, including an Honeywell that came with box and documents, along with two Tak 1.4...yes they are yellow but I don't find it disturbing at all, with color they give a pleasant "warming" effect that you usually get with a cloudy filter.

I have two SP-F’s. And an SV - the other best m42 camera ever made.

[arnold]

[IMG][/IMG]
This is the third 'auto' variation of the last Spotmatic, the first automatic Pentax SLR. Even without the four LR44 batteries, (which fit under the lens mount) manual speeds 1/60 and above are available. The chrome models are rarer than the black I understand. This one is in good condition and working well. I am not a fan of the four button cells it requires, and am happier with the non automatic SP F.