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04-27-2009, 02:46 AM   #16
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Agitation is actually a key process in negative development.
I am used to a lazy-man agitation shcedule, i.e.
- avoid dev times below 6 min
- once per minute for dev times in the 6-15 min range,
- once every other minute for dev times in the 15-30 min range

I have found that less agitation gives me longer tonal scale negatives

Now, once you set on a film and developer is good to make a EI test.
You need an "average scene" i.e. one that has most of the tonal range (shadows + highlights) and preferably one you can control. I use a bookshelf with books in all colors, a gray scale, and some hot wheels cars.
Meter the light, and then shoot with open 2 stops , 1 stop, reading, close 1 stop, close 2 stops. Then shoot a blank and repeat

Then you develop not the whole roll but a part of it, since you shot repeatably the 5 frame sequence you should have those frames in a reasonable length snippet.
After developing evaluate the frames for shadow detail and tonal scale and decide which one is better. After that you adjust the ISO based on this number.

04-27-2009, 07:53 PM   #17
Ira
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I just watched that video, and a little warning:

You should pull any tape off any film SLOWLY! Doing it quickly will create an electrostatic discharge/spark, which although at the ends of the file and therefore harmless, is a light-emitting spark nonetheless.

I never used a changing bag, only a pitch-black closet, and 9 times out of 10 when I wasn't careful, I saw that spark.
04-27-2009, 10:15 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
I just watched that video, and a little warning:

You should pull any tape off any film SLOWLY! Doing it quickly will create an electrostatic discharge/spark, which although at the ends of the file and therefore harmless, is a light-emitting spark nonetheless.

I never used a changing bag, only a pitch-black closet, and 9 times out of 10 when I wasn't careful, I saw that spark.
A better bet is to either not rewind the film fully into the cassette, or to use a film leader extractor to pull it back out.
Once the tongue is exposed, turn off the lights and pull the film completely out of the cassette and cut it off with scissors.
This obviates the possibility of sparks from the tape (I've had light fogged film from this).

Photo labs use a sticky tape for extracting film from the cartidges, once you get the hang of how it works, it's pretty easy to pull a film tongue with Dymo tape.
04-28-2009, 10:15 AM   #19
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I could never really get a hang of the "tongue-type" extractors...but what I wouldn't give for a nice, heavy, metal tape extractor again! Ehh...I'll make do, I guess...

04-28-2009, 02:38 PM   #20
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Fewer passes through the cartridge means less scratches, so I use a can opener.
With a little practice it's not hard to work the scissors inside the changing bag.

Chris
04-29-2009, 09:35 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
Fewer passes through the cartridge means less scratches, so I use a can opener.
With a little practice it's not hard to work the scissors inside the changing bag.

Chris
I know the theory, it's pretty much a non issue. Labs use film extractors and pull the film directly from the cartridge. The wholesale lab I worked at in the 80s had an industrial can opener that would crack the cartrige and fire the film at the operator, who would then splice it to the previous film where it was wound onto a spool.
The only time we ever saw scratches was when someone brought in a roll of film that was dirty, and filth got transferred to the machine.
As long as your camera is kept clean, the film isn't removed from the can immediately prior to loading, and is returned to the can after being taken from the camera, scratches aren't likely to be a problem.

Having said that, I used a can opener for most of my time with 35mm film, it wasn't until I started running a custom processing service and had to do things like twin check film to keep them straight that I started doing it the way the labs do.
I never saw a scratch that could be attributed to dirt in the felt lips that wasn't caused by customer negligence in the first place.
04-29-2009, 10:03 AM   #22
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Yep...

I handle film roughly (expertly? ) and even in home-loading and processing, haven't managed to scratch a neg bad enough even when scanned at 2400dpi...

Thinking about it...bottle openers are really the hard way of doing things. Flat head screwdriver in the slot and prying the canister open leaves the film in the canister and on the spool. Now I remember why I never used a bottle opener in the lab...
04-29-2009, 10:04 AM   #23
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You know, I can generally just sort of tear the cartridge open by the slot a little ways with my fingers, and fish out the leader that way, (I don't know if everyone has the right size fingers for this, but it doesn't actually take a lot of strength,) ...that way the film stays pretty conveniently inside the cartridge while you load, and there's no worries about any scratches at all.

Hee, Ryan had a similar thought. Of course, this way, you're still trimming in the dark, but there we are.

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