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10-22-2010, 08:53 AM   #91
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QuoteOriginally posted by EyeSpy Quote
How many of you have a viewfinder cover? Have your ever used it as suggested on a Pentax or any other SLR?
It is the same one that comes with the K10D. I also have one that came with my Super Program. I have used mine in the past and have also used the eyepiece blind in my Ricoh XR-2s, but usually it is just as easy to shade the eyepiece with a finger tip or hand unless you have to be some distance from the camera.

As for the need...You would think that it would not be that much of an issue and often it isn't. A lot depends on how the camera manages auto-exposure when the self-timer is used (mirror-up on shutter press vs. mirror up at shutter release) and the lens/technique you are using. The first time I noticed a problem was with my Jupiter-9 with its manual (actually pre-set) aperture. There the lens is stopped down before you push the shutter release. I was doing macro work in Av mode and noting the shutter speed in the viewfinder before backing away from the camera to do the exposure. Boy was I surprised to see a much lower shutter speed in the top LCD than I saw in the viewfinder! How does one spell U-N-D-E-R-E-X-P-O-S-U-R-E?

If you are in a situation where you don't have the cover and can't be at the back of the camera to shade the viewfinder, the easy out is to simply shoot in manual mode.


Steve


Last edited by stevebrot; 10-22-2010 at 09:00 AM.
10-22-2010, 09:03 AM   #92
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Beswick Quote
I agree! one of the cool things about the P3/30/n/t () is how you can roll the shutter speed dial in almost the same way you would roll the control wheel on the front of a K10/20. The layout of the camera is such that you only need to pull it from your eye to wind the film, and if you use your right eye you might not even need to do that.
The shutter speed dial on the P3x series is one of the best in the Pentax world and one of the reasons why I like the camera. I would definitely own one except that I have a personal need to be able to manually set the ISO though I guess I could just apply an appropriate exposure comp.
10-22-2010, 08:01 PM   #93
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Well, I managed to get the bottom cover off, and tweaked the mechanism of the winder lever so that it had tension and would work, but the shutter still won't fire. Couldn't figure out how to manually release the shutter. Any further suggestions? I appreciate the advice very much. And thanks, EyeSpy, for the welcome.
10-22-2010, 09:07 PM   #94
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fiddling Bob Quote
Couldn't figure out how to manually release the shutter.
It is electronic and probably can't be tripped manually (no mechanical clockwork).


Steve

10-26-2010, 09:15 AM   #95
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Why No Love for the Pentax P3N?

QuoteOriginally posted by lawsonstone Quote
Is the P3N really such a bad camera?
This thread has been running for a long time now for a body-series "that no one loves".

To my mind the Pea-bodies are sort'a like the K200D - just not really much to complain about and a more versatile and efficient tool than it's given credit for.

I once had to spec-out a camera for users with minimal familiarization with the selected camera to include in aviation mishap investigation kits. At the time, the P3n was a great candidate. Box ISO wasn't an issue; it was ensuring fresh batteries on demand. They turned out to be durable, scratch and dent resistant (unlike the metal bodies) and simple to use. A body without that %@#$! built-in flash bump made for a compact kit but still able to use a "real" flash when necessary.

I've got five of 'em put out to pasture out of respect for their faithful service and occasionally give one away to deserving newbies.

H2
10-28-2010, 07:19 PM   #96
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QuoteOriginally posted by Fiddling Bob Quote
Well, I managed to get the bottom cover off, and tweaked the mechanism of the winder lever so that it had tension and would work, but the shutter still won't fire. Couldn't figure out how to manually release the shutter. Any further suggestions? I appreciate the advice very much. And thanks, EyeSpy, for the welcome.
Ummm. I didn't tweek anything.... I just fidgeted and pushed and pulled the levers and the the shutter would snap ... then I would rewind and have to do it all over again. I think I finally realized not to cock/advance before putting batteries in. (So basically I sort of figured that the camera was cocked with dead batteries so the shutter was stuck. So it was sold as non-working. ) Inserting new batteries would not help until the cocked shutter was manually fired through the bottom mechs.

wrong:
1. manually pull levers..whatevers' until you hear the shutter fire.
2. wind camera again to test

correct
1. manually pull levers..whatevers' until you hear the shutter fire
2. make sure good batteries are installed
3. turn camera on
4. cock it
5. fire.

so this is how by happenstance I solved my DOA P3 delimma. Again good luck.
10-29-2010, 07:18 AM   #97
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P3n: Maybe Dead, Maybe Not

Hmmm. . . okay, I think I'll open up that bottom plate again, mess around with the batteries out of the camera, and see what happens. Thanks.
10-30-2010, 09:03 AM   #98
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Hi, I've just bought a P30T on Ebay for 5!!

It's in great condition and with new batteries does everything it should. This is the plastic version as compared to my P30 which is all metal.

I must stop buying bodies now as I'm waiting for the ME and ME Super to return from Harrow Technical, own the two P30s and bought my son the Pentax MG. Great cameras.

I certainly have a lot of love for all the M and P series cameras, but probably don't need to buy any more.

I'd like to buy an A series 50mm lens if anyone wants to sell me one as I'm not that keen on the Pentax 35-70mm AF I'm using on it at the moment. It's a good lens in great condition but I don't like the need to use the two rings to focus.

Johnct

12-07-2010, 06:24 AM   #99
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I just picked up a P5 (OK, not quite the same thing). It is actually a nicely made camera with some decent features. However, for all the lovers of the P series, does anyone know what the issue was for Pentax and TTL flash? Why eliminate it for a decade and then bring it back?

My biggest disappointment in this camera series is not the DX coding that everyone talks about (I have other bodies for pushing), but its behavior on modern flashes. Pop an AF540FGZ on an LX or Superprogram or ZX-L, and it just works. The default P-TTL functions as TTL, and all is good with the world. Pop a modern flash on the P series, and you are setting the flash to A (TTL just yields a full power flash) as if it were an M body and setting aperture on the flash--strange to get used to. You lose the setting and go back to P-TTL if the flash is turned off.

Do the P series bodies play well with the older, high trigger voltage flashes, such as Vivitar 283s? I suppose that none of the older flashes will work well with lenses without aperture rings, since the only way I can find to manually set an aperture on such a lens is on the dedicated flash.
12-07-2010, 08:02 AM   #100
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
does anyone know what the issue was for Pentax and TTL flash? Why eliminate it for a decade and then bring it back?
Which decade are you referring to? Your P-series camera was made in the late 1980s. TTL flash was available on the LX and and SF-series cameras of the same vintage and on other later models through the *ist. The only earlier model that supported TTL was the Super Program IIRC. It was considered to be a high-end feature at the time and the P-series bodies were mid-market cameras.

I don't know if it is helpful, but I have shot my Vivitar 2600 (high trigger voltage) on my Super Program with no ill-affect.

Steve
12-07-2010, 11:22 AM   #101
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Which decade are you referring to? Your P-series camera was made in the late 1980s. TTL flash was available on the LX and and SF-series cameras of the same vintage and on other later models through the *ist. The only earlier model that supported TTL was the Super Program IIRC. It was considered to be a high-end feature at the time and the P-series bodies were mid-market cameras.

I don't know if it is helpful, but I have shot my Vivitar 2600 (high trigger voltage) on my Super Program with no ill-affect.

Steve
The use of the word "decade" is probably confusing. The ten years to which I am referring is the time during which the P series of cameras that is the subject of this thread were made--from the Mid 80s to the mid 90s. Why take the TTL out of a line of cameras full of exposure automation which were essentially slight "improvements" on the TTL-equipped SuperProgram? The P5 even takes the same winder. I don't believe Pentax ever made an autofocus camera, regardless of level, without TTL, even during this period.

I can't do anything about history. One solution would be if the modern dedicated flashes would just not default to TTL when they are attached to a camera that does not support it. The other thing to bear in mind is that these cameras aren't ideal for flash work with lenses that don't have aperture rings. That is a shame since many of us buy these bodies so that we can use the newer A-ringless lenses.

Last edited by GeneV; 12-07-2010 at 12:03 PM.
12-07-2010, 02:51 PM   #102
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Had my DA55-300 on my P3n (dont know why, just did) few weeks ago,
took a bright flashlight and directed into "Lil chopah" as I affectionatly call it.
(had meter set to auto or Av) and noticed that I could get the iris to neck down
to at least F11, maybe tighter.Hit expose' lock, turn mode dial to desired speed
and Im good to go. Got a bad awful itch for D FA 100/2.8 mac WR
more ways to scratch that itch, the happier I am.

Biggest complaint is no PC port on P3n.
Seems like prism is same dimension and size as ME spr, but focus screen is very
differnt. Like the matte portion of P3 a little more, seems brighter. Little or no
difference on split/prism. Porro-prism collar on ME spr is the best and brightest
Ive ever used, fantastic for longer focal lengths that I have, 400mm-600mm

That Seiko shutter is extremely strong(P3n), more so than ME spr, have heard
that seiko took a liitle "heat" in regards to ME super and came back with
slower but stronger design used in P series.

Trigger potential is electrcally isolated from meter by dry set of contacts
even with my old vivitar and its 300vdc plus, never a problem, beyond shooting manual flash

Last edited by BillM; 12-07-2010 at 03:06 PM.
12-07-2010, 05:09 PM   #103
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QuoteOriginally posted by BillM Quote
....

Trigger potential is electrcally isolated from meter by dry set of contacts
even with my old vivitar and its 300vdc plus, never a problem, beyond shooting manual flash
Is this refering to the P3/P3n/etc.?
12-07-2010, 06:22 PM   #104
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QuoteQuote:
Is this refering to the P3/P3n/etc.?
P3n specific , can remember seeing bottom of P5 and noticed battery chamber
has screw button rather than sliding flap type as on P3n are there other internal
changes that might suggest a little caution with higher trigger voltage's?

Have used same flash on ZX-M with no ill effects
12-08-2010, 08:04 PM   #105
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QuoteOriginally posted by BillM Quote
P3n specific , can remember seeing bottom of P5 and noticed battery chamber
has screw button rather than sliding flap type as on P3n are there other internal
changes that might suggest a little caution with higher trigger voltage's?

Have used same flash on ZX-M with no ill effects
I just don't see why it wouldn't be OK, ....what's so delicate to fry, there. I can't say for sure, but to be honest, I wouldn't think twice myself about a 283 on a P3 type, (for better or worse. )
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