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05-21-2009, 06:29 PM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady Quote
Right now I don't meter with the Macro. I set aperture, shutter speed and shoot. I can adjust overexposure with my scanning software. Here's a shot I used the macro setting on, though it's not truly macro as it's not close enough. But this photo was shown as overexposed in my scanner software and this is the result after fixing in that software.
Hrm. If you're metering by eye (and presumably being correct) and setting exposures by hand, you should not be overexposed. Is the exposure compensation, perchance, left off-zero? Otherwise, I'd suspect the lens simply isn't stopping down at all.

05-21-2009, 06:41 PM   #47
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QuoteQuote:
I'd suspect the lens simply isn't stopping down at all.
I'm assuming this is what's happening. Even doing the settings I do, the meter shows overexposed. And exposure compensation is at 0.0. I have not tried the other controls yet. I have plan to do that tomorrow if it doesn't rain all day. And I have another roll of film I'm getting developed tomorrow and will see how those other shots come out. I kind of been shooting and hoping for the best.
05-21-2009, 06:58 PM   #48
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady Quote
I'm assuming this is what's happening. Even doing the settings I do, the meter shows overexposed. And exposure compensation is at 0.0. I have not tried the other controls yet. I have plan to do that tomorrow if it doesn't rain all day. And I have another roll of film I'm getting developed tomorrow and will see how those other shots come out. I kind of been shooting and hoping for the best.

Hrm, well, maybe when the camera's empty, just do what you're doing, and dry-fire it so you can see if the iris closes down. That ought to let you know that part.
05-22-2009, 12:56 AM   #49
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K1000? I would recommend you try a ME Super or a SuperProgram
IMHO way better (and generally cheaper)

QuoteOriginally posted by photolady Quote
On the lens macro setting, this gives sharp closeup photos. So, I'll still keep it. Might pick up a K1000 to use that lens on in the near future. Now that was a good pack around camera. I'd gotten almost as fast at advancing the film, as auto advance on mine as my autofocus was.

Those auto features. I guess I'll play around with them soon as I get some more film. I've only got two rolls of Fuji 200. And of course we have had nothing but rain the last week. and not your normal spring showers but pouring down lightening and thunderstorms rain.

When my other lenses get here, there is a 50mm and a set of closeup lenses. That I can do macro with and I know because this is what I used when I had my K1000. Sometimes I miss that K1000.


05-22-2009, 03:40 AM   #50
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I would recommend you try a ME Super or a SuperProgram
IMHO way better (and generally cheaper)
Well, checking ebay I find the ME Super and SuperProgram to be higher priced than the K1000. Plus checking ASA, the K1000 is ASA to 3200, while the ME is ASA to 1600. Although, I do give credit to those you recommend, as they have the flash sync is higher than the K1000. Price wise and useability, I'll stick with the K1000. Watching one now for $30.
05-22-2009, 05:44 AM   #51
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I've also decided to buy a couple of FA lenses to use with this camera instead of buying a different camera. Lenses being cheaper than the other or newer camera. That way, when I do go digital, if ever, I'll have a few lenses. I hope they work with Pentax Digitals.
05-22-2009, 06:19 AM   #52
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FA lenses and the 3rd party autofocus lenses (Tokina, Sigma, Tamron etc) will work flawlessly with Pentax's DSLRs. The only "catch" is the crop factor, so you may still need to buy an ultra wide (in respect to focal lengths on film) to get a wide angle view. The crop factor of 1.5, which means multiply your focal length by 1.5 to get your resulting focal length (ie 50 mm* 1.5= 75 mm), will result in a loss of apparent wideness with your standard 28 or even 35 mm lens.

Then again, 28mm on a DSLR may just do the job for you. You won't really know untill you actually try it out.
05-22-2009, 06:46 AM   #53
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Thanks for the info on the lenses and crop factor info too. It will be a good while before I can afford a DSLR though.

05-22-2009, 10:02 AM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by VF-19 Quote
Then again, 28mm on a DSLR may just do the job for you. You won't really know untill you actually try it out.
I'm really quite fond of the 28mm lens on crop, by the way, just personally: the once-very common basic amateur kit just happens to become the equivalent FOVs of some interesting lenses. A 28 becomes like a 43 'true normal' ...a 50 1.4 is suddenly a little fast short portrait at 75, and a 135 suddenly becomes like a 200 2.8 you can pocket. I'm having a blast, there.

Common telephoto zooms also gain some extra ability to isolate your birdie type subjects.

If you end up going to digital, you might find em a bear to focus manually, though, comparatively speaking.

But, see what you can get a hold of ... the old kit lenses (usually somewhere around a 28-80) are also common and cheap. Not impressive glass, I mostly-presume, but they go.
05-22-2009, 01:01 PM   #55
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I'm used to how digitals focus, if you remember I said I had a Nikon digital.

I've posted some photos in my thread about the dust on the film. Which now I'm not sure it's the film or not.

See here
05-23-2009, 12:16 PM   #56
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Well, I ran into some more problems with this camera. For instance, it will not let me shoot anything in low light without the flash being activated. I mean even outside on a cloudy day, the shutter refused to release. Also though the instructions say I can use A lenses, it only works for me in manual mode. However, the manual says those lenses will work in Tv and Av modes....Also auto picture does not work with A lenses at all. None of the auto setting will allow me to depress the shutter release.

Moral of this story, don't buy a ZX-7. Buy the MZ-5n, which is what I am going to do on Wendnesday of the coming week.
05-23-2009, 12:42 PM   #57
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That is a very harsh conclusion based just on 1 sample, statistically will not hold.

In my case the MZ7 works perfectly (sample 2) so there is a 50-50 chance that a camera of these will work

Did you complain to KEH, you said you were expecting their mailers or something, in such case you already complained within the 14 days and they should honor your return

Last edited by titrisol; 05-23-2009 at 11:04 PM.
05-23-2009, 01:56 PM   #58
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I really wouldn't call it 1 sample. I've been trying to use this camera for a week. I've ruined two rolls of film with it, and when it won't work correctly in MF mode, won't let me change any settings to work with AF mode or Tv mode, it is basically useless for me.

My MZ-5n, I used A lenses and F/FA lenses. I've never lost a roll of film using it. I could adjust exposure compensation when I needed it. Of course I only used it in MF mode. And I've never had the shutter release refuse to let me press it down either.

Of course it could be that this particular camera is broken. Ratmagiclady said use Auto pic mode, well, I already found out I can't with this A lens or any other A lens. So, since A lenses is all I have and more to come in the mail this week, don't you think it would be better if I just got the camera I really wanted instead of going on and ruining more film?
05-23-2009, 06:51 PM   #59
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Sure, Photolady, it does sound like it'd be worth the money, if you've got it, to get hold of a model you really like, whatever else, you're clearly dissatisfied.

I believe you can defeat the flash-popup on the MZ-7, but possibly only in one mode.
05-23-2009, 08:41 PM   #60
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Photolady... When you used the A lens, have you tried turning the focus dial to manual focus (MF)? With my A 50/1.7 the shutter won't go in AF, but it goes in MF, in all shooting modes (auto pict, Av, Tv, M).

If you use AF on MZ-7 with A lenses, the camera will go to catch in focus mode, where it will only fire when the subject is focus. Press the shutter and keep focusing until focus is achieved. With the MZ-7 the caveat is that since the AF area is so big, it might be impossible to achieve focus with some subjects if using the catch-in focus.

If you use the Av, Tv, M, or no-flash-auto pict mode, the shutter should fire without flash despite the flash warnings.

Last edited by Andi Lo; 05-23-2009 at 08:50 PM.
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