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05-21-2009, 09:56 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by k100d Quote
i'm getting what appears to be very good results too by messing around with the black, mid and white points.
FWIW, for color negative film I usually just batch scan strips of 5 on a Coolscan V at full res/no crop/auto exposure.

If there's any sort of color cast (Reala seems particularly prone to this) apply the black-level eyedropper to the unexposed margins of each frame after the full scan to set the black point. Other levels/color/cropping adjustments happen afterward in lightroom or photoshop CS


ME Super, Fujicolor Reala 100, Pentax M 50/4.0 Macro

05-21-2009, 01:23 PM   #17
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Reala 100 is my favorite color film as well.

Scanned with a Epson 2450 Photo flatbed at 2400dpi, 48bit, 100% resulting in a 3200x2100 image.
PP is USM 0.7 and re-sized and cropped to 900x600



05-21-2009, 01:39 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by troyz Quote
FWIW, for color negative film I usually just batch scan strips of 5 on a Coolscan V at full res/no crop/auto exposure.

If there's any sort of color cast (Reala seems particularly prone to this) apply the black-level eyedropper to the unexposed margins of each frame after the full scan to set the black point. Other levels/color/cropping adjustments happen afterward in lightroom or photoshop CS
i've been using the pricy and cheap FH-3 holder. what a piece of junk, but critical for corner sharpness. and i don't intend to scan everything, only my faves.
thanks for the tip on the black point eye drop, will try that.
05-23-2009, 03:03 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by troyz Quote
If there's any sort of color cast (Reala seems particularly prone to this) apply the black-level eyedropper to the unexposed margins of each frame after the full scan to set the black point.
Do you mean a colour cast inherent in the film itself or in the scan? If only it were that simple to fix the scanner's introduced colour cast.

05-24-2009, 10:40 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by artobest Quote
Do you mean a colour cast inherent in the film itself or in the scan? If only it were that simple to fix the scanner's introduced colour cast.
I mean color added to the positive image, as if someone had turned on colored room lights during slide show.

If you have an uncropped positive image from a negative film scan, you should obtain peaks on the left (black) side of the R, G, and B histograms corresponding to the unexposed "black" area of the scan. If one of those peaks (say, green) is shifted to the right, the scanner probably hasn't properly compensated for the orange mask of the film; setting the output black level to the input level of the unexposed area is needed to fix that (placing the black peak at the left edge of the histogram where it belongs ).

Things to note:

(1) Since I'm using auto-exposure, black-level error may vary from frame to frame, so I can't just get the black level from one frame and apply it to others.

(2) Never trust the monitor, always look at the histograms. Very dark green might look black on your monitor.

(3) This doesn't help at all with color balance problems (i.e. using daylight film with tungsten light); you need to color-balance using some gray object (easy to do in lightroom after you have the black level fixed).
05-25-2009, 07:04 PM   #21
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Great pictures Simon. I really love this shot, there's just something about film eh? Did you scan any of your pictures taken with the GA645W?

I scan my negatives with Epson 4870 flatbed and I do notice pretty big difference between MF and 35mm negs. It's hard to go back to "small frame". Here is my flickr gallery, some sample scans:


05-25-2009, 07:35 PM   #22
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thanks! that's one of my favourites too, i should scan that one as well

medium format is awesomeness. i haven't done any scans but had some poor quality scans done at downtown camera. in the future, i will use MF only for chrome and my loupe, seems like the purest way to enjoy it.

QuoteOriginally posted by SquintyEyes Quote
Great pictures Simon. I really love this shot, there's just something about film eh? Did you scan any of your pictures taken with the GA645W?

I scan my negatives with Epson 4870 flatbed and I do notice pretty big difference between MF and 35mm negs. It's hard to go back to "small frame". Here is my flickr gallery, some sample scans:
05-25-2009, 11:20 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by k100d Quote
really not sure why everyone hates on the software, it makes more sense than Vuescan which seems like a CS project gone wrong. i'm getting what appears to be very good results too by messing around with the black, mid and white points.
I never liked Vuescan either. Same thoughts as you.

Silverfast is expensive but worth the price.

Of course Minolta scanners came with perfectly usable software, I would assume Nikon did as well.

Nice scans, always nice to see good info like this.

05-26-2009, 01:44 AM   #24
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hi all.. i have some nikon scan+reala too..

Z1+FA 20-35mm f/4



crop


crop again
05-26-2009, 08:49 PM   #25
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Just unboxed a new scanner here - a Canon "CanoScan 8800F. Flatbed with negative holders for 35, 120, and slides. Still experimenting with various settings but results seem nice and I'll get some up soon - slow as can be though. If it scanned any slower it would start growing moss on it's north side. Essentially the same as the reviews online- great quality, takes 120 negatives, but slow. Plus it was inexpensive - if I did this for a living I might be able to justify the cost of a Coolscan - but for home use I suppose I can be patient.
05-26-2009, 08:58 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rustyoldbug Quote
Just unboxed a new scanner here - a Canon "CanoScan 8800F. Flatbed with negative holders for 35, 120, and slides. Still experimenting with various settings but results seem nice and I'll get some up soon - slow as can be though. If it scanned any slower it would start growing moss on it's north side. Essentially the same as the reviews online- great quality, takes 120 negatives, but slow. Plus it was inexpensive - if I did this for a living I might be able to justify the cost of a Coolscan - but for home use I suppose I can be patient.
Yup, my Epson 2450 Photos is the same, about 6min for 1 48bit color scan or 4min at 16bit B&W at maximum hardware resolution.
05-26-2009, 09:21 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by ajuett Quote
Yup, my Epson 2450 Photos is the same, about 6min for 1 48bit color scan or 4min at 16bit B&W at maximum hardware resolution.
Haven't done any color yet, but max res B&W takes about 2 minutes per frame (I am running it on a 2Ghz Core Duo Mac with 4GB Ram) and I can load two 35mm negative strips in at a time - so I am loading it and starting the scan, rotating laundry, sipping coffee and browsing the forum for a bit - then reload & repeat.
05-26-2009, 09:25 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rustyoldbug Quote
Just unboxed a new scanner here - a Canon "CanoScan 8800F. Flatbed with negative holders for 35, 120, and slides. Still experimenting with various settings but results seem nice and I'll get some up soon - slow as can be though. If it scanned any slower it would start growing moss on it's north side. Essentially the same as the reviews online- great quality, takes 120 negatives, but slow. Plus it was inexpensive - if I did this for a living I might be able to justify the cost of a Coolscan - but for home use I suppose I can be patient.
I hear that Canon scanner is very good. I have been pondering that one myself so I will await your scans with anticipation.
05-31-2009, 08:26 PM   #29
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two new scans

400UC


P-800
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