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07-20-2009, 09:11 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
If you want to use Takumars on a film camera with full manual settings and a nice big bright viewfinder, forget the K-mount bodies and grab yourself an SV. I'll gladly join the list of folks recommending it.
as much as I love my SV, (and I really do) looking through both just now, the MX's focusing screen is just better. not counting the ridiculously awesome fresnel and microprism screen of the SV, (super easy to focus) the MX's is larger and at least 1 to 1 1/2 stops brighter than the SV. and with the meter off, the MX's screen is nearly as clean as the SV's. the little wheel on the right indicating shutter speed is almost unnoticeable when focusing. the SV is a brilliant and beautiful camera, but concerning the OP's requirements I just cant recommend the SV over the MX. even with open-aperture focusing of the SV. of course one also has to think about the MX's meter indication... which is a less than stellar simple LED. ive never run into any problems seeing it in bright daylight but its certainly not preferred over the needle. of course the SV has no meter, so you would have to use your trusted sekonic or whatever you use.

07-20-2009, 09:17 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by david.elliott Quote
. . .



Uh oh. Do any of the above mentioned bodies have mirror clearance issues with the 50/1.4?
I haven't verified the Super Tak 50mm f1.4 whether or not its a problem with the H3 or but suspect it won't clear. However, it IS a problem with the early SV but not the late SV. The early SV has a green R on the film rewind crank and the late SV has a red R.

The Spot F viewfinder will be a lot like the K-series bodies and has a match needle light meter similar to the K-1000 and has a split screen. It and its ES and ES II siblings has some quirks such as not being able to use the Super tak 50mm f1.4 and 55mm f1.8 lens but the use of the SMC Taks are the ultimate on these 3 bodies anyway.
07-20-2009, 09:42 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
you may want to look at a ricoh XR-2s.

It is an automatic camera witl full manual, layout and controls are like a KX or K2DMD but it has a diagonal split image. Very nice for MF.

ALso, M42 lenses in Aperture priority work very well, since the metering sees the light exactly as it is.
I can second for the XR-2s. The viewfinder is bright and it has the split-image/microprism screen. In comparison to the KX (I own both), the KX is easier for manual exposure since the meter stays active without having to keep your finger on the shutter button. While the KX screen is not as bright, I find it easier to work with for many subjects due to the broad ground-glass doughnut. Did I mention that a good XR-2 or XR-2s is about half the price of a KX in similar condition?

Edit
I forgot to second Lowell's comment regarding M42 in Av mode on the XR-2s. It is very slick.

Steve

Last edited by stevebrot; 07-20-2009 at 10:06 AM.
07-20-2009, 10:00 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by david.elliott Quote
Thank you.

I figure it cant be any less convenient than using a handheld meter. I use an incident one when I am out with my rolleiflex. So if I really dont like stop-down metering, I can just use the incident meter anyway.
Since you wouldn't mind using a separate handheld meter (Although it is fairly commonly available, I wouldn't recommend the optional top mounted Pentax meter for everyday practical use..... too clunky, transforming a graceful machine into an unwieldy "Rube Goldberg" device), I too would recommend a later model SV (I have the last model, an S3V), not only because of the 50mm 1.4 clearance issue, but also the shutter curtain was substantially redesigned & strengthened in these later models, a possible issue with a camera that is to be used regularly. Obtaining one of these would also eliminate any stop down issues, as you'll be using a separate meter.
These cameras are a pure joy to shoot with, basic photographic machinery at it's best, slightly smaller than a Spotmatic, ratchet free film winding, nice sized fresnal center focusing spot, feels more naturally (operationally & visually) matched with the old Takumars than the more modern bodies, coupled with the smoothest operating lenses ever made..... there's nothing that can match the focusing feel of a properly operating Takumar.
By the way, even if you were to use a handheld meter with one of the K-mount bodies, you would still have to stop down to shooting aperture before taking a shot.


Last edited by raymeedc; 07-20-2009 at 10:24 AM.
07-21-2009, 04:02 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
If you want to use Takumars on a film camera with full manual settings and a nice big bright viewfinder, forget the K-mount bodies and grab yourself an SV. I'll gladly join the list of folks recommending it.
The SV is definitely out of budget unfortunately, since it sounds very nice. There are only a couple on ebay and they are fairly expensive, and the one on keh costs $150 in bargain grade. :| :|
07-21-2009, 04:04 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by séamuis Quote
as much as I love my SV, (and I really do) looking through both just now, the MX's focusing screen is just better. not counting the ridiculously awesome fresnel and microprism screen of the SV, (super easy to focus) the MX's is larger and at least 1 to 1 1/2 stops brighter than the SV. and with the meter off, the MX's screen is nearly as clean as the SV's. the little wheel on the right indicating shutter speed is almost unnoticeable when focusing. the SV is a brilliant and beautiful camera, but concerning the OP's requirements I just cant recommend the SV over the MX. even with open-aperture focusing of the SV. of course one also has to think about the MX's meter indication... which is a less than stellar simple LED. ive never run into any problems seeing it in bright daylight but its certainly not preferred over the needle. of course the SV has no meter, so you would have to use your trusted sekonic or whatever you use.
Thanks for the comparison.

I use a sekonic L308
07-21-2009, 04:13 AM   #22
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Given that the SV is out of range, I think I will have to go with the me super or the mx, or even the xr-2s. Depends what I find in good condition at a reasonable price.

Thank you everybody.
07-21-2009, 04:51 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by david.elliott Quote
The SV is definitely out of budget unfortunately, since it sounds very nice. There are only a couple on ebay and they are fairly expensive, and the one on keh costs $150 in bargain grade. :| :|
You just have to know where to get them. I bought mine off a fresh CLA, including new shutter curtains and a Super Takumar 55/1.8, for the grand sum of $40. Séamuis got his (also off a fresh CLA/refurbishment) for a similar amount, plus a bit more for some international shipping. Still came out to about $70.

To quote Frankie Remley...."I know a guy...."

07-21-2009, 10:24 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by david.elliott Quote
The SV is definitely out of budget unfortunately, since it sounds very nice. There are only a couple on ebay and they are fairly expensive, and the one on keh costs $150 in bargain grade. :| :|
There aren't nearly as many for sale at any given time as Spotmatics, so an initial judgement on typical price parameters for an SV is not easily determined by a look at the couple of present offerings only. Many sellers think their cameras are worth more than they actually are..... it doesn't mean they'll sell at the asking price. To get a better indication, take a look at the selling prices of the "completed items" located in the column on the far left of Ebay pages. If it's the camera you want, have a little patience & look at what pops up over the next few weeks..... I'm pretty sure you'll be able to come up with a good example within your price range.
As far as KEH goes, store offerings are typically more than the price you can pick up an item for on EBay.
07-22-2009, 07:37 PM   #25
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In case you're interested, an early Pentax S1A just popped up on Ebay a couple of hours ago for a Buy it Now price of $55, with the original optional removable top mounted meter & case. Even if you don't want this one, I just wanted to show you that you can get one for quite a reasonable price if you have a little patience. They turn up often enough at quite affordable prices.

Link is as follows:
Asahi Pentax S1a + Light Meter + 55mm F2 - eBay (item 160350720141 end time Aug-01-09 18:16:44 PDT)
07-23-2009, 04:12 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by raymeedc Quote
In case you're interested, an early Pentax S1A just popped up on Ebay a couple of hours ago for a Buy it Now price of $55, with the original optional removable top mounted meter & case. Even if you don't want this one, I just wanted to show you that you can get one for quite a reasonable price if you have a little patience. They turn up often enough at quite affordable prices.

Link is as follows:
Asahi Pentax S1a + Light Meter + 55mm F2 - eBay (item 160350720141 end time Aug-01-09 18:16:44 PDT)
Yep, you were right. My initial price gauge was definitely off.

I'm going to go for the SV through Mike, and I will use it with my sekonic light meter or sunny 16.

For the really dim lighting or flat out darkness, I'm going to keep trucking with my Bessa R since I can handhold that down to 1/8th of a second.

Thanks again!

-David
07-23-2009, 06:04 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by david.elliott Quote
Yep, you were right. My initial price gauge was definitely off.

I'm going to go for the SV through Mike, and I will use it with my sekonic light meter or sunny 16.

For the really dim lighting or flat out darkness, I'm going to keep trucking with my Bessa R since I can handhold that down to 1/8th of a second.

Thanks again!

-David

you wont be disappointed with the SV.
07-23-2009, 06:24 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by séamuis Quote
you wont be disappointed with the SV.
Thanks. I am loooking forward to it
07-23-2009, 07:37 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by david.elliott Quote
Hello all,

I joined a while ago to sell a super takumar 105/2.8 I found in a desk drawer. Well, now I am back because the quality of the lens felt superb and after browsing flickr, the taks seem like high quality, relatively inexpensive glass. Plus, I've always wanted to try a film SLR.

I'll probably purchase the 28/3.5, 50/1.4, and 50/4 lenses, spaced out over the next year or so. Naturally, original pentax adapters to go with them.


-David
If you only have one Takumar and want to go to a K-mount camera why not just buy K-mount lenses? A ME Super (or Super Program) should fit the bill and the Pentax-M lenses are quite good optically and not all that expensive. Pentax-A lenses do demand a premium since they are quite functional on Pentax dSLRs.

I bought a ME Super for the manual mode but rarely use it. Since I would use it mainly for strong contrast lighting situations, I have found the exposure compensation dial to be faster. Even faster is the the exposure lock on my P30t but that camera does not have as large or bright a viewfinder as the MS Super, although it is more than adequate and better than my K200D, even with a Katzeye screen.
07-23-2009, 07:52 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tom in Delaware Quote
If you only have one Takumar and want to go to a K-mount camera why not just buy K-mount lenses? A ME Super (or Super Program) should fit the bill and the Pentax-M lenses are quite good optically and not all that expensive. Pentax-A lenses do demand a premium since they are quite functional on Pentax dSLRs.

I bought a ME Super for the manual mode but rarely use it. Since I would use it mainly for strong contrast lighting situations, I have found the exposure compensation dial to be faster. Even faster is the the exposure lock on my P30t but that camera does not have as large or bright a viewfinder as the MS Super, although it is more than adequate and better than my K200D, even with a Katzeye screen.
Actually, the lens sold and I dont have any takumar lenses at the moment.

I exclusively use, on my other film cameras, fully manual settings. None of them have automatic settings, so it is quite natural to me now anyway.

And on my nikon d70, I use old lenses that dont meter so its off to the incident meter and fully manual settings for that too.
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