Film Developing Guidebook

MBrannon · 08-12-2009, 09:39 AM

I would really like to learn how to develop my own film. Not just black and white negative, but color negative as well. I was wondering if anyone could point me towards a good book that covers the process step-by-step, and is easy for a darkroom noob like myself to understand. I mainly just want to develop the negative and scan it onto the computer. I'm not really planning on doing prints.

I've been looking around the net a bit trying to find the best choice. One that I've found is "The Basic Darkroom Book" by Michele and Tom Grimm. Does anyone have experience with this one, or maybe have a better choice? I really appreciate any help anyone may have.

Venturi · 08-12-2009, 11:56 AM

Hey Michael,

I started developing my own film first of the year. Started with B&W and have now begun color as well. It is much easier than it might seem to get going.

Here's are some links to pages I used to help get me going. I have yet to buy any specific darkroom books though as I move further down the road I'm sure they will begin appearing on my bookshelf.

C h i i f C a m e r a s - Developing B&W Film
Fecal Face B&W Processing Tutorial
YouTube - How to Develop Film
Digitaltruth Photo
Kodak HC-110 Developer - Unofficial Resource Page

Developing a C41 colour film
YouTube - Developing C41 Color Film At Home

Freestyle Photographic Supplies

Cosmo · 08-12-2009, 02:16 PM

I just got a book out from the library, I think it was like, Basic photography guide. Anyway, that helped.

I'll give you a very simple guide to developing.

Need:
Developer
Stop bath
Fixer
wetting agent
Tank+spool
thermometer
timer
tongs
clothes pegs
3 containers for the chemicals

Get a tank and spool. In a completely dark room, (I use my bathroom with a towel across the bottom of the door), reel the film onto the spool. This may take alot of practice, it may help it you use some old film you don't care about and just practice with that in the light first.

Once the film is in the tank, you can do the rest of the process in the light. All the dilution rates and times are on the developing bottles. You need a thermometer to know what temp the chemicals are at. Get 3 containers to mix each chemical in (Developer, stop bath and fixer). You need a timer or watch, and then pour the chemicals in and time as long as necessary for each (developing varies due to film speed, temp and developer, stop is about 2 min, fix is about 5 min). Agitate for 10 seconds every minute, give the tank a firm bang on the table to release any air bubble trapped against the film surface.

Once fixed, you can open the tank, rinse out the tank + film for 15-30min. You may wish to use a wetting agent, which helps the negs to dry without water marks on them. Get film out and let it dry, you can get tongs to scrape alot of the water off. You can hang the film with clothes pegs, with one on the bottom to help the film dry straight.

That's kinda rough, but would get you through developing.

MBrannon · 08-12-2009, 04:12 PM

Thank you for your replies.

Venturi, thanks for the links. I didn't know about the chemical kits that freestyle has. That's probably the way I'll go.
Cosmo, Thanks for the run down. It doesn't sound like it would be terribly hard at all.

One other question - once you develop a roll and pour the chemicals back into containers, about how many times can you reuse the chemicals before they need replaced? Thank you again for all the help.

Last edited by MBrannon; 08-18-2009 at 12:26 AM.

Sluggo · 08-12-2009, 05:56 PM

"need replaced"? Did you grow up in eastern Ohio or western Pennsylvania by any chance? That's a regional expression that seems to be spreading, but I digress before even starting.

I'm not sure what you would need tongs for. I don't have any.

How many times you re-use the chemicals depends on the chemicals. The color development kits will have explicit instructions about how many rolls they recommend you do before getting new chemicals.

For black and white, the developers are usually used once (in water dilutions that make the practice reasonably economical), but there are exceptions. Some developers can be used over and over, either by gradually increasing development times to compensate for the stuff getting weaker until you replace it, or by using some kind of replenishment scheme.

Almost everybody re-uses black and white fixer multiple times. Occasionally you'll hear from somebody who does not.

lithos · 08-12-2009, 11:15 PM

I've reused fixer for months, nearly a year. It tends to be more stable than developer, and it's not like you have to fix for a certain time. Also, I can't ever recall measuring fixer with any more accurate than my eye. With rapid fixer, you leave the film in for two minutes, then you can check to see, in normal light, whether it's completely clear. So exact dilution doesn't matter that much, because time doesn't matter that much. It's a "when it's done" process.

For devs, using excellent D-76 (if you're starting of with BW developing, start with that or Ilford's equivalent, ID-11) I normally just throw it out after each use. D-76 isn't that expensive. Also, diluting it 1:1 (or 1+1, as Ilford lists dilutions - one part water, one part D-76 solution) gives pretty much the same results while using half as much developer. Of course, with any other developer, all bets are off as to the results.

But that's the beauty and fun of DIY BW film development. BW Devs have massive effects on the final image - some give greater shadow detail, some smoother highlights, some give finer grain, others give greater acutance ("sharpness,") some smooth out midtones, etc, etc...and all those effects also depend on what film you use. Note that fixers don't really have any visual effect.

I learned, some would say not very well, from Kodak's Tech Pubs. ("Tech Pub" being short for "Technical Publication," of course, not a bar where geeks hang out.)

Before you buy anything, start there. They're free, and tell you only the mechanics of developing film, and, more importantly, deal with 35mm, 120 and sheet film.

A lot of other publications tend to be written by Zonies who find the idea of developing several frames of film at a time (eg, 35mm) repugnant and alien, and instead basically tell you the only way to do it is to just shoot several hundred dollars' worth of test frames, and waste them in the darkroom in order to find out the correct dev times for each single type of shot. It's makes film developing seem daunting, dull, and anal.

titrisol · 08-13-2009, 09:05 AM

In the goodwill stores it was very easy to find the Hedgecoe's books, there is at least 1 covering the subject you want quite extensively.

noblepa · 08-13-2009, 09:17 AM

Clearwater Public Library System Home Page

I did a quick search at your local library, using the keywords "photography" and "processing". This resulted in 180 hits. Some of the books are a little old, from the 1970's, but some were also within the last ten years. Film processing really hasn't changed that much for a long time, so any of them could probably give you the basics, although they may refer to products that are no longer available.

graphicgr8s · 08-14-2009, 10:49 AM

Can't really recommend any since all of mine are 30+ years old. Still good info just not sure if still in print. I've done a lot and I mean a lot of darkroom work in my time. I have a question for you though. If you're not printing stuff why bother developing it yourself? I mean the fun of it for me anyway was the effort in making the print. Developing the film itself was the drudgery to get past so I could have fun printing. The local lab can do it better and cheaper than you can. And safer to the environment than you. And give you the scans since you're going that way anyway. By not printing you're losing the essence of film anyway.

MBrannon · 08-14-2009, 02:07 PM

Well, the reasons I'm thinking of developing my own, are mainly cost, fun, and convenience. I also like the idea that once I get a little experience with doing it myself, I could take more time and care to make sure it comes out how I want. As far as the scans, I can make better, higher resolution scans than your local Wal Mart or Walgreens. I've already bought a Canoscan 8800 scanner, which does pretty high resolution scans of negatives, positives and slides (not to mentioon prints). I like the idea that if I shoot 2 or 3 rolls, I don't have to wait for the developing. I can go do it right then and have the results quickly. I can also have better control of the end product.

Blue · 08-14-2009, 02:10 PM

Originally posted by lithos

. . .

I learned, some would say not very well, from Kodak's Tech Pubs. ("Tech Pub" being short for "Technical Publication," of course, not a bar where geeks hang out.)

. . .

We used to have an "Office" and a "Library" that were pubs around here.

Sadly, this is all that remains of them.

On a serious note, don't overlook these tech pubs on the Kodak site either:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/databanks/filmDatabankIn....14.36.7&lc=en

MBrannon · 08-14-2009, 02:50 PM

Thanks Blue, I'm checking them out. I appreciate all the comments and recommendations from everyone.

08-12-2009, 09:39 AM	#1
MBrannon Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 161	Film Developing Guidebook I would really like to learn how to develop my own film. Not just black and white negative, but color negative as well. I was wondering if anyone could point me towards a good book that covers the process step-by-step, and is easy for a darkroom noob like myself to understand. I mainly just want to develop the negative and scan it onto the computer. I'm not really planning on doing prints. I've been looking around the net a bit trying to find the best choice. One that I've found is "The Basic Darkroom Book" by Michele and Tom Grimm. Does anyone have experience with this one, or maybe have a better choice? I really appreciate any help anyone may have.

08-13-2009, 09:17 AM	#8
noblepa Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Bay Village, Ohio USA Posts: 1,142	Clearwater Public Library Clearwater Public Library System Home Page I did a quick search at your local library, using the keywords "photography" and "processing". This resulted in 180 hits. Some of the books are a little old, from the 1970's, but some were also within the last ten years. Film processing really hasn't changed that much for a long time, so any of them could probably give you the basics, although they may refer to products that are no longer available.

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08-12-2009, 11:56 AM	#2
Venturi Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Tulsa, OK Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,636	Hey Michael, I started developing my own film first of the year. Started with B&W and have now begun color as well. It is much easier than it might seem to get going. Here's are some links to pages I used to help get me going. I have yet to buy any specific darkroom books though as I move further down the road I'm sure they will begin appearing on my bookshelf. C h i i f C a m e r a s - Developing B&W Film Fecal Face B&W Processing Tutorial YouTube - How to Develop Film Digitaltruth Photo Kodak HC-110 Developer - Unofficial Resource Page Developing a C41 colour film YouTube - Developing C41 Color Film At Home Freestyle Photographic Supplies

08-12-2009, 02:16 PM	#3
Cosmo Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Photos: Gallery Posts: 488	I just got a book out from the library, I think it was like, Basic photography guide. Anyway, that helped. I'll give you a very simple guide to developing. Need: Developer Stop bath Fixer wetting agent Tank+spool thermometer timer tongs clothes pegs 3 containers for the chemicals Get a tank and spool. In a completely dark room, (I use my bathroom with a towel across the bottom of the door), reel the film onto the spool. This may take alot of practice, it may help it you use some old film you don't care about and just practice with that in the light first. Once the film is in the tank, you can do the rest of the process in the light. All the dilution rates and times are on the developing bottles. You need a thermometer to know what temp the chemicals are at. Get 3 containers to mix each chemical in (Developer, stop bath and fixer). You need a timer or watch, and then pour the chemicals in and time as long as necessary for each (developing varies due to film speed, temp and developer, stop is about 2 min, fix is about 5 min). Agitate for 10 seconds every minute, give the tank a firm bang on the table to release any air bubble trapped against the film surface. Once fixed, you can open the tank, rinse out the tank + film for 15-30min. You may wish to use a wetting agent, which helps the negs to dry without water marks on them. Get film out and let it dry, you can get tongs to scrape alot of the water off. You can hang the film with clothes pegs, with one on the bottom to help the film dry straight. That's kinda rough, but would get you through developing.

08-12-2009, 04:12 PM	#4
MBrannon Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 161 Original Poster	Thank you for your replies. Venturi, thanks for the links. I didn't know about the chemical kits that freestyle has. That's probably the way I'll go. Cosmo, Thanks for the run down. It doesn't sound like it would be terribly hard at all. One other question - once you develop a roll and pour the chemicals back into containers, about how many times can you reuse the chemicals before they need replaced? Thank you again for all the help. Last edited by MBrannon; 08-18-2009 at 12:26 AM.

08-12-2009, 05:56 PM	#5
Sluggo Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Ames, Iowa Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 774	"need replaced"? Did you grow up in eastern Ohio or western Pennsylvania by any chance? That's a regional expression that seems to be spreading, but I digress before even starting. I'm not sure what you would need tongs for. I don't have any. How many times you re-use the chemicals depends on the chemicals. The color development kits will have explicit instructions about how many rolls they recommend you do before getting new chemicals. For black and white, the developers are usually used once (in water dilutions that make the practice reasonably economical), but there are exceptions. Some developers can be used over and over, either by gradually increasing development times to compensate for the stuff getting weaker until you replace it, or by using some kind of replenishment scheme. Almost everybody re-uses black and white fixer multiple times. Occasionally you'll hear from somebody who does not.

08-12-2009, 11:15 PM	#6
lithos Inactive Account Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUS Posts: 3,261	I've reused fixer for months, nearly a year. It tends to be more stable than developer, and it's not like you have to fix for a certain time. Also, I can't ever recall measuring fixer with any more accurate than my eye. With rapid fixer, you leave the film in for two minutes, then you can check to see, in normal light, whether it's completely clear. So exact dilution doesn't matter that much, because time doesn't matter that much. It's a "when it's done" process. For devs, using excellent D-76 (if you're starting of with BW developing, start with that or Ilford's equivalent, ID-11) I normally just throw it out after each use. D-76 isn't that expensive. Also, diluting it 1:1 (or 1+1, as Ilford lists dilutions - one part water, one part D-76 solution) gives pretty much the same results while using half as much developer. Of course, with any other developer, all bets are off as to the results. But that's the beauty and fun of DIY BW film development. BW Devs have massive effects on the final image - some give greater shadow detail, some smoother highlights, some give finer grain, others give greater acutance ("sharpness,") some smooth out midtones, etc, etc...and all those effects also depend on what film you use. Note that fixers don't really have any visual effect. I learned, some would say not very well, from Kodak's Tech Pubs. ("Tech Pub" being short for "Technical Publication," of course, not a bar where geeks hang out.) Before you buy anything, start there. They're free, and tell you only the mechanics of developing film, and, more importantly, deal with 35mm, 120 and sheet film. A lot of other publications tend to be written by Zonies who find the idea of developing several frames of film at a time (eg, 35mm) repugnant and alien, and instead basically tell you the only way to do it is to just shoot several hundred dollars' worth of test frames, and waste them in the darkroom in order to find out the correct dev times for each single type of shot. It's makes film developing seem daunting, dull, and anal.

08-13-2009, 09:05 AM	#7
titrisol Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: In the most populated state... state of denial Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,852	In the goodwill stores it was very easy to find the Hedgecoe's books, there is at least 1 covering the subject you want quite extensively.

08-14-2009, 10:49 AM	#9
graphicgr8s Guest	Can't really recommend any since all of mine are 30+ years old. Still good info just not sure if still in print. I've done a lot and I mean a lot of darkroom work in my time. I have a question for you though. If you're not printing stuff why bother developing it yourself? I mean the fun of it for me anyway was the effort in making the print. Developing the film itself was the drudgery to get past so I could have fun printing. The local lab can do it better and cheaper than you can. And safer to the environment than you. And give you the scans since you're going that way anyway. By not printing you're losing the essence of film anyway.

08-14-2009, 02:07 PM	#10
MBrannon Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 161 Original Poster	Well, the reasons I'm thinking of developing my own, are mainly cost, fun, and convenience. I also like the idea that once I get a little experience with doing it myself, I could take more time and care to make sure it comes out how I want. As far as the scans, I can make better, higher resolution scans than your local Wal Mart or Walgreens. I've already bought a Canoscan 8800 scanner, which does pretty high resolution scans of negatives, positives and slides (not to mentioon prints). I like the idea that if I shoot 2 or 3 rolls, I don't have to wait for the developing. I can go do it right then and have the results quickly. I can also have better control of the end product.

08-14-2009, 02:10 PM	#11
Blue Moderator Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Florida Hill Country Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,377	Originally posted by lithos . . . I learned, some would say not very well, from Kodak's Tech Pubs. ("Tech Pub" being short for "Technical Publication," of course, not a bar where geeks hang out.) . . . We used to have an "Office" and a "Library" that were pubs around here. Sadly, this is all that remains of them. On a serious note, don't overlook these tech pubs on the Kodak site either: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/databanks/filmDatabankIn....14.36.7&lc=en

08-14-2009, 02:50 PM	#12
MBrannon Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 161 Original Poster	Thanks Blue, I'm checking them out. I appreciate all the comments and recommendations from everyone.