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08-24-2009, 01:33 PM   #16
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I have some diafine that's mixed...been sitting on my shelf for a couple of years. I need to use it again just to see what the effects of time are on the stuff.

graphicgr8s -- do you let your chemicals sit out to evaporate? I have a little one at home (substantially more mobile than your new one) and I don't want open chemicals ANYWHERE around my house.

I haven't processed film since she's been born (a year and a half), so I haven't decided yet how I'm going to handle the chemical thing.

08-24-2009, 01:35 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by graphicgr8s Quote
You could let the water evaporate then dispose of the residue in the trash.
that takes days though...
08-24-2009, 01:57 PM   #18
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I think the idea about letting it evaporate and putting whatever it evaporated in into the trash was some kind of facetious. It's only gonna end up untreated and in the groundwater that way, dumped at sea, or incinerated and in the atmosphere, anyway. (Probably not too big a deal with developer, but the heavy metals.... ) Not to mention that the vapors from evaporating it are supposed to be half the problem in the first place.

Depends where you are, I suppose.
08-24-2009, 09:38 PM   #19
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ID-11 and D-76 are, for all practical purposes, the same.

The only difference is in their packaging. No, not just the labels and bags, but in their "chemical" packaging as well.

D-76 comes in one bag, just for ease-of-use. You mix it with the required quantity of water, and it's done. However, the essential chemicals that make up D-76/ID-11 tend to react a bit when stored with each other, so Kodak puts in a few extra chemicals to prevent that so they can put it all in one bag.

Ilford's ID-11 just separates the chemicals that react, and puts them in different bags, so they're not mixed until you mix the solution. You get an "A" bag and a "B" bag.

For developmental purposes, they're both the same. I highly recommend them as a beginner's developer, as they're easy-to-use, cheap, and give a good balance of grain and sharpness. It's been considered by some as a "baseline" or "standard" developer; it's what I use all the time, as Tri-X and D-76 are a match made in heaven (for me!)

Many darkroom schools use it. It's like the K1000 of devs, put it that way. A lot of webpages/books talking about a certain developer will often describe it in relation to D-76.

HC-110...different kettle o' fish. It's very, very concentrated. If you use it, ignore that BS Kodak tells you mixing a stock solution in a five gallon jug or whatever, then mix from that a working solution in another jug, whatever. It's a highly inefficient way of using the stuff. Instead, go to a chemist, grab a syringe with 0.1 CC (ml) markings on it, and measure the required amount of syrup needed straight from the bottle, and mix with the required amount of water. HC-110 syrup last until approximately the heat death of the universe, so it is indeed very good value.

Everything you need to know about HC-110 is on this page.

I tend to find it's got finer grain that D-76, but with less shadow detail. I've used it for pushed Tri-X, which doesn't help. Pushed HP5+...ugh. Just my opinion. YMMV.

I don't recommend starting off with it, as it works fast and the faster the developer, the less margin for timing/agitation error. But you can dilute it even further than Kodak suggests, and simply do a linear extrapolation of the dev times. Read that page I've linked to before you start!

08-24-2009, 10:13 PM   #20
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Good point on the HC110 Lithos. I never could figure out what the Kodak people were thinking with the stock solution method.

Buffy,

Have you given any thought to a fixer?
08-25-2009, 09:05 AM   #21
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I imagine it was for back in the good ol' days when everyone shot film - for photogs and labs who'd go through a bottle of HC-110 in a couple of months, not a couple of years (which is what it'll take me to get through mine.)

But who wants to have a coupla gallons of solution to store, when it's perfectly fine in a pint bottle?

I suppose another bonus with the stock solution method is that as HC-110 syrup is very, very viscous (it's about the consistency of warm honey, for those who haven't used some) some will stick to the bottle. If you don't submerge the whole damn thing, you might leave behind as much as, say, 5-10% of the syrup, which would impact your development.

Sure, you have wastage with the syringe method as some of it; probably enough to do a frame of 35mm (.16 of a ml) gets stuck to the outside of the syringe. Since you should only use the accurately measured stuff on the inside, you'll have to turf it.

But if you realise how efficient and cheap the stuff is, considering how long it lasts, how easy it is to get fresh solution every time, it's nothing to worry about at all.

I must say, for all it's secondary characteristics, HC-110 is an excellent developer for me. Unfortunately, I'm not a fan of its primary characteristics.

I'll be doing a roll of FP4+ in it soon, so we'll see how it goes.
08-25-2009, 09:31 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithos Quote
HC-110 syrup last until approximately the heat death of the universe.
11/10

hahahaha, epic!

that should go into the quote section.
08-25-2009, 09:51 AM   #23
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I recommend HC110. It will give you excellent results, keeps forever and is very economical.

Kodak FAQ on darkroom chemical disposal

Chris

08-25-2009, 10:00 AM   #24
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Well, for the love of god, correct my grammar:

HC-110 syrup lasts until the heat death of the universe.

I'd stick you Max Payne quote in there, were it an original (and something to do with this forum.)
08-25-2009, 11:47 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithos Quote
Well, for the love of god, correct my grammar:

HC-110 syrup lasts until the heat death of the universe.

I'd stick you Max Payne quote in there, were it an original (and something to do with this forum.)
well it does have something do with everything...

i mean, half the posts on this forum are always "what do i chose" "how should i do" etc etc...

why wont people just commit
08-25-2009, 01:57 PM   #26
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I am no expert but have tried Xtol and D-76, both seem fine - the D-76 has been around a while and is so common place that every type of film I have shot lists developing info for it.

I also picked up some Diafine but haven't tried any yet.
08-26-2009, 08:23 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Blue Quote
Buffy,

Have you given any thought to a fixer?
I'm thinking of either Ilford Rapid Fixer or Silvergrain Clearfix, which I found on Freestyle's web site. Silvergrain seems very eco-friendly.
08-26-2009, 08:30 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gooshin Quote
i mean, half the posts on this forum are always "what do i chose" "how should i do" etc etc...

why wont people just commit
Oft is the time I've enjoyed your curmudgeonly posts, Gooshin, but I think your witty repartee is misdirected this time. Figuring out "what do I choose" and "how should I do" is largely the point of these forums. (Well, that and bragging about having the biggest lens.)

Now I would agree there is no substitute for doing your own experimenting, but there's no harm in seeking the benefit of others' experience.
08-26-2009, 09:07 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Buffy Quote
Oft is the time I've enjoyed your curmudgeonly posts, Gooshin, but I think your witty repartee is misdirected this time. Figuring out "what do I choose" and "how should I do" is largely the point of these forums. (Well, that and bragging about having the biggest lens.)

Now I would agree there is no substitute for doing your own experimenting, but there's no harm in seeking the benefit of others' experience.
well i guess i was a bit generalizing..

like this thread is excellent, because there is discussion going on, and everyone is learning.


the threads in the lens section for instance, where some bloke with money (or no money) to burn is like "yeah i dont know what i want, there are these 50 lenses i want to choose from... um, i only have 300 dollars... i want the best.. and um... yeah.. can you guys help me choose cuz like... i havent a clue.. btw whats an F-stop??"

08-26-2009, 02:42 PM   #30
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I've used a lot of developers like Microphen, ID-11, Rodinal and Ilfosol.

Until I tested UltraFin Plus from Tetenal !
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