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09-22-2009, 04:53 PM   #16
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Well, one thing every film shooter should have and know how to use is a leader extractor. Occasionally you'll end up accidentally rewinding film all the way when you just wanted to unload it midroll to take up later or something like that. Commercial (ie, non-reloadable) film canisters won't let you put them back together again, so that's what you need.

09-22-2009, 11:35 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by schwarzundweiss Quote
oh.....so im more of an idiot for trying to wind it back out again.....for 20 minutes straight.....i hope my efforts to get it back out didnt damage the film
You're not an idiot. You just grew up in an era where nobody around you is using film and you have nothing to go on. Don't beat yourself up over it.

QuoteQuote:
but there is a problem, one of the rolls is completely unexposed, i made a mistake and rewound it, so i have a roll to use, but its stuck in the cassette....so do i need one of those tools to get it out?
If you go to one of those places that does the photo developing and printing right there on site (the "1-hour photo" places) all you need is a pleasant smile. Just tell the person what you did and ask them to fish the leader back out of the canister for you. That's what they have to do before they plop the film into the developing machine anyway. Shouldn't cost you more than a "please" and a "thank you".
09-23-2009, 12:27 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
If you go to one of those places that does the photo developing and printing right there on site (the "1-hour photo" places) all you need is a pleasant smile. Just tell the person what you did and ask them to fish the leader back out of the canister for you. That's what they have to do before they plop the film into the developing machine anyway. Shouldn't cost you more than a "please" and a "thank you".
Mike is right, if you brought it to the lab where I work we'd fish it out for you. If we're quiet it would take 2 minutes, if we're busy it might take an hour before we have the chance.
However we can only fish out 95% of them, with the rest we must open up the canister for developing.
09-23-2009, 10:00 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by little laker Quote
Mike is right, if you brought it to the lab where I work we'd fish it out for you. If we're quiet it would take 2 minutes, if we're busy it might take an hour before we have the chance.
However we can only fish out 95% of them, with the rest we must open up the canister for developing.
Really? Do you use the sticky plastic tape in the dispenser? I was like 99% with that...and if I couldn't get it with that, then I would use the plastic retriever for like 1 minute then it was straight to the darkbag.

The worst...and I mean THE WORST films are the single use cams labeled with "wedding" motifs. Had about 20 of em at once...could only fish out about 6...had 2 others try as well.

09-23-2009, 02:00 PM   #20
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Eh. They can be gotten, period. May take more time sometimes than at other times. You can make the tools out of scrap film if you have to.
09-28-2009, 04:15 PM   #21
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thanks to everyone for their input. im so glad that rewinding it back all the way is actually the correct way to do it
09-29-2009, 03:47 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by schwarzundweiss Quote
thanks to everyone for their input. im so glad that rewinding it back all the way is actually the correct way to do it
Relieving anxiety seems to be one of the primary functions of our wonderful little family here at Pentax Forums, and we are always happy to be of help.

I grew up in a time and in a family where "camera" meant "Kodak Instamatic" and until I was about to graduate high school I thought "film" meant the Kodak 126 film cartridge. In case you're not familiar with it, one one side there was a canister shaped bit for holding the unexposed film and on the other side a similar bit for taking up the exposed film. In between was a flat bit that connected the two and served as the pressure plate for the film. The film had a paper backing and there was a hold in the back of the cartridge (and a window in the camera back) which let you see numbers printed on the paper so you knew how many photos you had taken. You just wound the film all the way across and there was no rewinding at all. It was designed to idiot-proof the film loading and removal process. All you did was drop it in, close the back of the camera, and just wind and click, wind and click. When the roll was finished you removed the cartridge and sent the whole thing off for processing.

I was 17 years old before I encountered 35mm roll film that had to be rewound.
09-29-2009, 04:00 AM   #23
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B252 Adorama Film Leader Retriever 35mm
General Brand | 35mm Film Leader Retriever | B&H Photo Video

this thing works fine, though you need to read and understand the instructions to make it work.

I bought one because I have a mostly unexposed roll of 400H - it's been in 2 cameras so far, and the last one was motorized so it sucked in the leader. (Camera malfunctions in both casess).

I figure this could be a handy gadget - I've never had one in 45 years of film photography.

---

Rewinding - if you do the manual rewind, you learn to feel the extra resistance at the end when the leader pulls out of the spool, and then the much lesser resistance right after. You can hold your ear to the back of the camera too, to hear the difference in the sound it makes. This is how you learn how to leave the leader out.

In the 70s I used to leave the film peeking out, and load the developing tank by pulling the film back out of the canister. Or at least I seem to recall doing that - I also seem to recall using a churchkey. So much for memory.

Now I don't bother, I just wind it all in.

09-29-2009, 01:54 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
B252 Adorama Film Leader Retriever 35mm
General Brand | 35mm Film Leader Retriever | B&H Photo Video

this thing works fine, though you need to read and understand the instructions to make it work.

I bought one because I have a mostly unexposed roll of 400H - it's been in 2 cameras so far, and the last one was motorized so it sucked in the leader. (Camera malfunctions in both casess).

I figure this could be a handy gadget - I've never had one in 45 years of film photography.

---

Rewinding - if you do the manual rewind, you learn to feel the extra resistance at the end when the leader pulls out of the spool, and then the much lesser resistance right after. You can hold your ear to the back of the camera too, to hear the difference in the sound it makes. This is how you learn how to leave the leader out.

In the 70s I used to leave the film peeking out, and load the developing tank by pulling the film back out of the canister. Or at least I seem to recall doing that - I also seem to recall using a churchkey. So much for memory.

Now I don't bother, I just wind it all in.
Read the instructions? Men don't read no stinkin instructions.
09-30-2009, 02:27 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by graphicgr8s Quote
Read the instructions? Men don't read no stinkin instructions.
Chick McGee likes to describe instructions as, "another man's opinion".
10-01-2009, 08:55 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
Chick McGee likes to describe instructions as, "another man's opinion".
Maybe that's why boys can't fix nuffin.
10-01-2009, 10:43 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ratmagiclady Quote
Maybe that's why boys can't fix nuffin.
If you're on the computer then who's standing the barefooted watch in the kitchen?
10-01-2009, 11:44 PM   #28
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If I remember correctly, the PZ1p also gives you the option to leave the film out or in during rewind. Nice feature.
10-02-2009, 01:38 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ratmagiclady Quote
Maybe that's why boys can't fix nuffin.
If left to women the oil would never get changed and the tires would be flat.
10-02-2009, 03:21 PM   #30
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I always leave the film out during rewind, because I process on my own. It's easy if you pay attention while rewinding, at some point the film leader will pop out of the takeup spool and then there is no more resistance from the takeup spool.

Then I fold back the film leader which clearly marks the film roll as exposed.
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