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02-14-2010, 04:41 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Blue Quote
It won't hurt to ask Eric. However, in part it is because of calibrating a light meter with extreme low-light sensitivity, off-the-film metering (OTF) for ambient exposures, plus it has seals on every button and dial.
I was only thinking about the light seals. Also, his email indicated that there may have been some damage from the sticking mirror. That was the point of my original post--that using a camera with a sticky seal can cause expensive damage.

02-14-2010, 04:53 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
I was only thinking about the light seals. Also, his email indicated that there may have been some damage from the sticking mirror. That was the point of my original post--that using a camera with a sticky seal can cause expensive damage.
The LX has a special mirror which I suspect has to do with the off-film metering. This camera just happens to be one that has an expensive cla. Its kind of like a British sports car.
02-14-2010, 04:56 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Beswick Quote
This is an easy one!

The MX renders the K1000 redundant.
The only thing the Program Plus really has on the P3n is manual ISO, but you can always tweak the DX with a razor blade and/or electrical tape. On the other hand the P3n is much easier to actually use from an ergonomic standpoint.
The PZ-1 is superior to all the other AF bodies in just about every way, except maybe size or personal taste.

My answer: MX, P3n, PZ-1.
I just remembered why I took the *ist of my short list. It has the original "physically challenged" KAF which makes the "physically challenged" KAF2 seem like a quantum leap. So I would definitely go with the PZ-1.
02-14-2010, 05:37 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Eric is doing my LX, and his charge is $175. I did not know that his price was so much different for other models. Several Ebayers advertise $125, but if Eric will do an MX for $65, perhaps it is worth it to send it in.
The LX is a much more complex camera than a Spotmatic or MESuper, and parts are becoming hard to get.

Please see the 4th paragraph on the Estimating page of his website

The key is how you get the estimate:
  1. Send him your camera - $7 or $8 USPS Priority Mail
  2. Eric emails you the estimate for the CLA and proposed repairs to any additional damaged parts he finds
  3. You accept the estimate, PayPal the amount, he fixes your camera and sends it back - OR
  4. You don't accept the estimate, he doesn't fix your camera - AND HE SENDS IT BACK!!
yOUR TOTAL COST IS THE $7 or $8 USPS Priority Mail TO INITIALLY SEND HIM THE CAMERA.

02-14-2010, 07:11 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote

The key is how you get the estimate:
  1. Send him your camera - $7 or $8 USPS Priority Mail
  2. Eric emails you the estimate for the CLA and proposed repairs to any additional damaged parts he finds
  3. You accept the estimate, PayPal the amount, he fixes your camera and sends it back - OR
  4. You don't accept the estimate, he doesn't fix your camera - AND HE SENDS IT BACK!!
yOUR TOTAL COST IS THE $7 or $8 USPS Priority Mail TO INITIALLY SEND HIM THE CAMERA.
Of course I know that, because he is fixing my camera. No one is questioning Eric's honesty or business practices.
02-14-2010, 07:40 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Of course I know that, because he is fixing my camera. No one is questioning Eric's honesty or business practices.
Hey Gene: I've read several posts about your LX - sounds like you'll have a keeper and I'm envious.

Sorry if my tone was a bit off - just clearing things for others who might read this thread later. Eric's practice is somewhat unusual.
02-15-2010, 09:30 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
Hey Gene: I've read several posts about your LX - sounds like you'll have a keeper and I'm envious.

Sorry if my tone was a bit off - just clearing things for others who might read this thread later. Eric's practice is somewhat unusual.
No problem.

My LX has been all over with me, so it has a special place in my heart. The same is true of my MX (though my favorite one that I had the longest was stolen). I was concerned that the cost of refurbing the MX might exceed its value, especially with a refurbed MX going for about $200-250 on Ebay. If the MX cost is much less, then it may make sense to have it done.
02-24-2010, 07:40 PM   #23
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I love my *ist! Crippled KAF and all. So you can't use M or K lenses, you can use Taks,Fs, FAs and DAs. With the DA 40 it is an oversized P&S. Maybe a little small for some hands, but with the grip it is perfect for me.

So I would say PZ-1, *ist, MX.

02-24-2010, 08:30 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentastic Quote
K1000, MX, P3n, Program Plus, SF1n, PZ-1, MZ-L, *ist
Guess I haven't tossed my $0.02 in for this yet.

I have no experience with the last four (i.e., newer) bodies you list, but I own the first four. Of those, the only one with "you can have it when you pry my cold dead fingers from around it" status is the MX.
02-28-2010, 01:17 PM   #25
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If this is what you really want..

QuoteOriginally posted by Pentastic:
Longevity and flexibility are important.
Get rid of anything that depends on a battery and has electronic parts, stock up on a particular B&W film you like (best to buy out as much as you can from a particular batch and freeze it), collect duplicate lenses and get some extra seals and you should be set.
02-28-2010, 01:27 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Clicker Quote
Get rid of anything that depends on a battery and has electronic parts, stock up on a particular B&W film you like (best to buy out as much as you can from a particular batch and freeze it), collect duplicate lenses and get some extra seals and you should be set.

You mean like this "crowd?"




As opposed to this crowd?


02-28-2010, 01:29 PM   #27
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You know i really don't want to stare at that collection because i have Ebay bookmarked
03-01-2010, 08:45 PM   #28
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I have the opposite issue now. I just had a baby, so my father, a first time grandfather sponsored me into digital age and I picked up a K20D, and I put down my Program Plus, but when I picked up my last rolls of film I thought how fun it is to get my film back. So I picked up my brother's K1000, because I figure what's the point of shooting film if my camera is automatic, I got the K20D for that. My thinking would be to keep the K1000 and the MX. They are both little tanks although the MX is smaller (which I think is a plus), and although the camera's functionality are very similar you can load different film in each and bring both on your outings.
03-03-2010, 07:58 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Simian Summit Quote
I have the opposite issue now. I just had a baby, so my father, a first time grandfather sponsored me into digital age and I picked up a K20D, and I put down my Program Plus, but when I picked up my last rolls of film I thought how fun it is to get my film back. So I picked up my brother's K1000, because I figure what's the point of shooting film if my camera is automatic, I got the K20D for that. My thinking would be to keep the K1000 and the MX. They are both little tanks although the MX is smaller (which I think is a plus), and although the camera's functionality are very similar you can load different film in each and bring both on your outings.
I think that's very good thinking ...because i'm in the process of getting what i gave up prior to digital as a photo nut, you will somehow for whatever reason miss those film cameras so don't part with them all.
03-05-2010, 07:10 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Clicker Quote
I think that's very good thinking ...because i'm in the process of getting what i gave up prior to digital as a photo nut, you will somehow for whatever reason miss those film cameras so don't part with them all.
I'll echo that and add that multiple film bodies are more essential to me than multiple digital bodies because they allow you to carry different films.
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