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02-13-2010, 05:35 AM   #1
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Too many film bodies

I have acquired too many film bodies and want to reduce to 2 or 3. Anyone have opinions on which of these I should keep for a balanced arsenal? All are in excellent condition. I want to use rather than collect. I like to use Takumar lenses and black and white film. Longevity and flexibility are important. (FYI - I have K10d and K-x on digital side.)

K1000, MX, P3n, Program Plus, SF1n, PZ-1, MZ-L, *ist

02-13-2010, 05:48 AM   #2
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My $0.02 is keep the PZ-1 and P3n at least. I say the PZ-1 over the SF-1n and others becuase you get all the features of the others with the added benefits of the HyperP and the rear aperture control dial allows you to use DA and FAJ glass if you so desire.

The P3n vs Program Plus will probably spark some debate on here. The Program Plus gets you manual ISO input and Exposure Compensation, but the P3n has an actual Shutter Speed dial and exposure memory lock. You have to do your exposure compensation the old fashioned way, and the film will only auto-DX. I also admit to being very partial to my P3n or "NEd" if you follow that thread.
02-13-2010, 08:00 AM   #3
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if you must, keep one of the af bodies, but really, they aren't proper classic cameras. Though keeping one is handy for using those af digital lenses on film.

I'd keep the MX and Program Plus. I'd trade for one of the Spotmatics.
02-13-2010, 08:13 AM   #4
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Nesster, I'm with you on the AF bodies, but they do make some nice photographs. I was looking through some of my pics from last year and the ZX-5n really delivered the IQ (shot mostly w/ FA35 and FA50). Just heard a ringing endorsement of TTL flash from Mr. Pita and have a Super Program on the way "home" from Eric - looking forward to putting the TTL function to good use on both those bodies - so I'll second your endorsement of the Program Plus.

Pentastic, is there really such a thing as "too many" film bodies? If you're worried about not shooting a given body enough, why not put them all in rotation? I'd also second Nesster's suggestion of a Spotmatic or other screwmount body so you can use those Taks w/out an adapter. Good luck making up your mind and hoping you'll be satisfied with whatever decision you make.

Best,
Kevin

02-13-2010, 08:17 AM   #5
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If you like Taks and B&W, then the K1000 and MX are probably the ticket, since you won't be using lenses with AF and the other features. From recent personal experience, my only caveat with the older manual cameras is to check the light seals.

All of my pre-1986 35mm bodies need or needed a replacement of the mirror light seals. Some here have done this themselves, but if it is done by someone else, it runs $125 or more, and if the seals have liquified, it can be tedious work. I have an MX body with oozing seals which I will probably just abandon, since you can often find recently CLA'd bodies on Ebay for less than the cost of fixing this one.
02-13-2010, 11:46 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentastic Quote
I have acquired too many film bodies and want to reduce to 2 or 3. Anyone have opinions on which of these I should keep for a balanced arsenal? All are in excellent condition. I want to use rather than collect. I like to use Takumar lenses and black and white film. Longevity and flexibility are important. (FYI - I have K10d and K-x on digital side.)

K1000, MX, P3n, Program Plus, SF1n, PZ-1, MZ-L, *ist
I'd definitely keep the MX and Program Plus. I'd also keep either the *ist or maybe the PZ-1 depending on which ones specs and features I like best. I'd then sell all the others and/or trade for a m42 body. That puts you from 8 to 4 film bodies. If you were to use an adapter on the MX for M42, that would get you to 3. However, if you ever pick up a working SV or K, its over.

QuoteOriginally posted by Nesster Quote
if you must, keep one of the af bodies, but really, they aren't proper classic cameras. Though keeping one is handy for using those af digital lenses on film.

I'd keep the MX and Program Plus. I'd trade for one of the Spotmatics.
If there is a classic AF, it would be the PZ-1/PZ-1p and maybe the SF1n.

Last edited by Blue; 02-13-2010 at 11:53 AM.
02-13-2010, 11:49 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
If you like Taks and B&W, then the K1000 and MX are probably the ticket, since you won't be using lenses with AF and the other features. From recent personal experience, my only caveat with the older manual cameras is to check the light seals.

All of my pre-1986 35mm bodies need or needed a replacement of the mirror light seals. Some here have done this themselves, but if it is done by someone else, it runs $125 or more, and if the seals have liquified, it can be tedious work. I have an MX body with oozing seals which I will probably just abandon, since you can often find recently CLA'd bodies on Ebay for less than the cost of fixing this one.
If you are paying 125 for a CLA of a Pentax (excluding the LX) you are cheating yourself. Eric does this for ~ $65. Other brands are ~ $125 at some of the better places.
02-13-2010, 01:52 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
I have an MX body with oozing seals which I will probably just abandon, since you can often find recently CLA'd bodies on Ebay for less than the cost of fixing this one.
If you choose to abandon your MX the "green" thing to doo is to recycle it.

PM me for the address of the MX recycling center in my community. As a service to a Forum member I will cheerfully recycle your camera for you.

Seriously, ERIC will completely recondition your camera to like-new for +/- $70. $125 is way high for the service.

02-13-2010, 02:31 PM   #9
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If they're all in good condition there's only one answer that really makes sense: keep the ones you like best. They're all good camera, so there are good reasons for keeping each one.
02-14-2010, 03:59 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Blue Quote
If you are paying 125 for a CLA of a Pentax (excluding the LX) you are cheating yourself. Eric does this for ~ $65. Other brands are ~ $125 at some of the better places.
Eric is doing my LX, and his charge is $175. I did not know that his price was so much different for other models. Several Ebayers advertise $125, but if Eric will do an MX for $65, perhaps it is worth it to send it in.
02-14-2010, 04:03 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Blue Quote
If you are paying 125 for a CLA of a Pentax (excluding the LX) you are cheating yourself. Eric does this for ~ $65. Other brands are ~ $125 at some of the better places.
Eric is doing my LX, and it will be $175. I did not know that his price was so much different for other models. Several Ebayers advertise $125, but if Eric will do an MX for $65, perhaps it is worth it to send it in.

Perhaps I should ask him, but does anyone know why an LX is so much more expensive to re-seal and CLA ?
02-14-2010, 04:28 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Eric is doing my LX, and it will be $175. I did not know that his price was so much different for other models. Several Ebayers advertise $125, but if Eric will do an MX for $65, perhaps it is worth it to send it in.

Perhaps I should ask him, but does anyone know why an LX is so much more expensive to re-seal and CLA ?
I would guess it is at least partly because the LX has so many more seals than any of the others.
02-14-2010, 04:33 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Beswick Quote
I would guess it is at least partly because the LX has so many more seals than any of the others.
I can see that it would have a seal around the removable finder that other bodies would not, but are there other seals that aren't on, say, an MX?
02-14-2010, 04:33 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Eric is doing my LX, and it will be $175. I did not know that his price was so much different for other models. Several Ebayers advertise $125, but if Eric will do an MX for $65, perhaps it is worth it to send it in.

Perhaps I should ask him, but does anyone know why an LX is so much more expensive to re-seal and CLA ?
It won't hurt to ask Eric. However, in part it is because of calibrating a light meter with extreme low-light sensitivity, off-the-film metering (OTF) for ambient exposures, plus it has seals on every button and dial.
02-14-2010, 04:37 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentastic Quote
I have acquired too many film bodies and want to reduce to 2 or 3. Anyone have opinions on which of these I should keep for a balanced arsenal? All are in excellent condition. I want to use rather than collect. I like to use Takumar lenses and black and white film. Longevity and flexibility are important. (FYI - I have K10d and K-x on digital side.)

K1000, MX, P3n, Program Plus, SF1n, PZ-1, MZ-L, *ist
This is an easy one!

The MX renders the K1000 redundant.
The only thing the Program Plus really has on the P3n is manual ISO, but you can always tweak the DX with a razor blade and/or electrical tape. On the other hand the P3n is much easier to actually use from an ergonomic standpoint.
The PZ-1 is superior to all the other AF bodies in just about every way, except maybe size or personal taste.

My answer: MX, P3n, PZ-1.
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