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03-27-2010, 10:28 PM   #1
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Will K2 and KM Work with My AF280T Flash?

i have a Pentax K2 and KM, and my TTL Flash is AF280T, will the TTL Flash mode work with em ? because i download the flash manual and seem cant find any K camera on the list of backward compatibility? or i just missed it?


is this the correct forum to ask? or should i ask the mod to move this to Flash forum?

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03-27-2010, 11:48 PM   #2
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It should work in Manual, if it has a manual mode. However it won't work on TTL. Neither camera is designed to.

I don't know of any Pentax manual focus lens, with flash TTL, although I suppose that there may be a couple out there.
03-28-2010, 01:59 AM   #3
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this was stupid question from me isnt it? .. im struggling to understand how flash work, and having several camera from old day and learning about it, while try to improve my techics in film photography made confusion of me. I forgot to check teh camera specs. God. I should have checked camera review database first didnt i..

They doesnt have TTL capability.

so its all manual right? even the i cannot use the Auto Mode
03-28-2010, 04:55 AM   #4
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You can use the auto mode - the sensor in the flash will read the light - just put the camera shutter to flash sync speed or lower, the flash to your film speed, and the aperture to what the back of the flash tells you... for example, looking at the back of my AF280T, ASA 400 in auto green gives you f/16, in auto red f/8.

I use it like this all the time.

03-28-2010, 06:16 AM   #5
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@nesster

i try to understand the description by you... i think i already figure it out by now.. let me try later..

thanks
03-28-2010, 06:28 AM   #6
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Fearview, when it comes to flash, there really are no bad questions. It takes time to get it right and not nearly as simple as putting a new lens on and taking a photo. Although you posted in the right place. It could be in either forum.

Manual flash shooting is not that difficult and with some practice, You'll get some good results.

The nice thing is, you can put that flash on your DSLR and practice without film costs and then take what you learn to the film camera.
03-28-2010, 07:48 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by fearview Quote
@nesster

i try to understand the description by you... i think i already figure it out by now.. let me try later..

thanks
Nesster's got it. To rephrase, what you'll get is old-fashioned 'auto' flash, which doesn't have to be 'dedicated' (basically the same thing with more interaction with the camera) or 'TTL,' (which is dedicated flash, except that the flash reads through the lens, rather than the 'electric eye' on the flash itself.


Basically, with your 'auto' flash modes, you will set the ISO of the film, (it may say ASA; same numbers) ....each of those colored modes will try to give you the right amount of flash to expose properly at that aperture. f8 or f16 in Nesster's example.

The flash does this by firing, and simply stopping itself when the little sensor up front detects the right amount of light reflected back.

There'll usually be a little confirmation light that lights up on the back if the flash thinks it was able to give you the proper exposure. The sensor can of course be fooled, but usually in quite-predictable ways that you can account for once you get familiar with flash.

That's part of why I like old-fashioned 'auto' flash. Which was about as high-tech as at least you'd commonly see around the time of the K2. It just sits up there and says, "I'm gonna try and give you this, OK?" and doesn't interfere with the camera.

I stayed with flash like that and avoided 'dedicated' units all along, (Canon's version really didn't do anything useful to me, anyway, didn't even TTL meter.)

It's actually simpler to understand what you've got than fancier things. All you really need to know is that the flash will try and give you the aperture you select. All the camera tells the flash is 'fire' and the flash doesn't tell the camera anything.

(BTW, this means that you have to be sure not to set the camera's shutter speed anywhere that exceeds the camera's synch speed. Also, if you use a cord and there are two cord terminals, choose the one that says 'X'. )

Last edited by Ratmagiclady; 03-28-2010 at 07:56 AM.
03-29-2010, 10:04 AM   #8
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@pete zack

thank you for encouraging me. i might already have one or two frame blown away yesterday, because my confusion.. ..lets hope i wont have that kind mistake again

03-29-2010, 10:23 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ratmagiclady Quote
Nesster's got it. To rephrase, what you'll get is old-fashioned 'auto' flash, which doesn't have to be 'dedicated' (basically the same thing with more interaction with the camera) or 'TTL,' (which is dedicated flash, except that the flash reads through the lens, rather than the 'electric eye' on the flash itself.


Basically, with your 'auto' flash modes, you will set the ISO of the film, (it may say ASA; same numbers) ....each of those colored modes will try to give you the right amount of flash to expose properly at that aperture. f8 or f16 in Nesster's example.

The flash does this by firing, and simply stopping itself when the little sensor up front detects the right amount of light reflected back.

There'll usually be a little confirmation light that lights up on the back if the flash thinks it was able to give you the proper exposure. The sensor can of course be fooled, but usually in quite-predictable ways that you can account for once you get familiar with flash.

That's part of why I like old-fashioned 'auto' flash. Which was about as high-tech as at least you'd commonly see around the time of the K2. It just sits up there and says, "I'm gonna try and give you this, OK?" and doesn't interfere with the camera.

I stayed with flash like that and avoided 'dedicated' units all along, (Canon's version really didn't do anything useful to me, anyway, didn't even TTL meter.)

It's actually simpler to understand what you've got than fancier things. All you really need to know is that the flash will try and give you the aperture you select. All the camera tells the flash is 'fire' and the flash doesn't tell the camera anything.

(BTW, this means that you have to be sure not to set the camera's shutter speed anywhere that exceeds the camera's synch speed. Also, if you use a cord and there are two cord terminals, choose the one that says 'X'. )
this is marvelous explanation by you Lady. it wont be better than this. so there is two ways how an exposure of flash can be done, the old way trough flash sensor and TTL.. i might type this wrong because my English limitation, but i actually understand your explanation.

..

from the all manual i read, it seem i can only sync 1/60 below on K2 and KM. if you want to get faster shutter speed you need a bulb flash. i Have sunpax 33 ..which have cord a cable,..ill try it too..
03-29-2010, 11:41 PM   #10
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Actually, I think that the K2 is supposed to sync with electronic flashes at speeds up to 1/125. Not bad for a body from the '70s.
03-30-2010, 12:11 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by fearview Quote
i might type this wrong because my English limitation, but i actually understand your explanation.
I would have thought that English was your first language, the way that you communicate in it. I'm impressed.
03-30-2010, 06:19 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by fearview Quote
this is marvelous explanation by you Lady. it wont be better than this. so there is two ways how an exposure of flash can be done, the old way trough flash sensor and TTL.. i might type this wrong because my English limitation, but i actually understand your explanation.
Why, thanks for the compliment.

You're doing OK with the English, too.

(Just to be sure we clear on our end,, your K2 and KM can't 'talk' with the TTL mode, so you should use the plain old 'auto' modes with those cameras, not TTL.

You can also set the flash to manual, though, of course. (With manual, the light output is fixed, so you must calculate according to distance. There should be a scale on the back: I don't remember well what it looks like. )
..

QuoteQuote:
from the all manual i read, it seem i can only sync 1/60 below on K2 and KM. if you want to get faster shutter speed you need a bulb flash. i Have sunpax 33 ..which have cord a cable,..ill try it too..
The K2 should synch at up to 1/125 of a second, like Steinback says. (The number should be a different color, that's what that means. ) I don't know about the KM. That is probably 1/60 or so.
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