Originally posted by UncleVanya RAW and JPEG both.
UV is right, but of course the range of things you can do with a jpg image is much more limited: eg the basic noise reduction is available, but the more sophisticated PRIME noise reduction isn't.
Originally posted by Aslyfox is this for working alone or to work with other programs such as light room
The original version 9 didn't work as a plugin for Lightroom. You had to export files from DxO to DNG, and they could then be worked on in Lightroom or other editors. This is what the user guide for DxO OP v.9.1 said:
"The DNG format is designed for files that you intend to archive or that are going to undergo further post-processing with DNGcompatible software such as Adobe Camera Raw/Photoshop/Lightroom. The DNG generated by DxO Optics Pro is a 16-bit linear DNG format, which is only available for original images shot in RAW."
But version 9.5 of DxO OP introduced seamless integration between DxO and Lightroom. See details here:
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Friends at last: DxO Optics Pro becomes Lightroom’s bestie thanks to new raw-sharing capability (updated)
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DxO Optics Pro 9.5image quality now directly accessible from Adobe Lightroom | www.dxo.com
I can't tell from the access page for the free download linked at the beginning of this thread which iteration of v.9 of DxO OP is being offered. But I suspect that it is v.9.5 because the pdf list of supported cameras includes several that were first supported in v.9.5 (e.g.Sony A6000).
Maybe someone who has done the download can confirm?
---------- Post added 12-19-16 at 07:20 AM ----------
Originally posted by Aslyfox sorry for the newbie question just getting into pp work
If you go ahead and try DxO, you might find some of their tutorials useful:
Photo Tutorials, Video Tutorials, Webinars | DxO Academy | www.dxo.com
Any editing program can be a bit daunting at first. I found the DxO presets a helpful start (until I used them as a base for developing my own).
What I found worked for me was to pick a preset (the DxO default is often quite good), then try to adjust the exposure, and only worry about colour, contrast, noise, dust, horizon correction and so on (as required) after the exposure was fixed. As you practise adjusting exposure, try to learn to read the histogram - it's a very useful tool.
In starting out, I found the most remarkable thing to be the amount of detail that could be recovered from over-exposed and particularly under-exposed parts of an image. So much so that I changed my shooting practice to lean more towards under-exposure and to try harder to avoid blown highlights (except where they didn't matter).
Here's a cheap trick. If you darken the blacks a little (e.g. -4 to -8) it creates the impression of more contrast, without looking too artificial.
Last edited by Des; 12-18-2016 at 01:37 PM.