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10-09-2011, 07:30 PM   #1
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K110D won't turn on ... right.

Spoke too soon...

I just went to take a pic, and the camera froze.

I've replaced the lens, batteries, used AC adapter, cleaned the lens contacts, reset the firmware.

What happens:

I turn on the camera. LCD starts up, but shows no shutter time. Batteries are showing full, and AF is center and AE is bracketed, with a single shot to be taken.

If I do nothing the camera stays on.

If i depress the shutter release the camera freezes/locks up, if I do a preview the camera freezes/locks up.

I can depress the 4 direction keys and the shutter speed comes up with Tv as priority. After 30 seconds the camera resets and the whole thing starts again.

LCD screen does not work, no playback, no menu, no display of dial setting, no Fn (function).
Flash cannot be raised,

Man and AF switch changes nothing.

---
I shouldn't have though my camera was doing really good.
I'm tired and don't want to deal with this, going to bed.


BTW I've taken it apart before so if someone knows what could be wrong on board/parts I will take it apart again to fix it.



Last edited by aT0Mx; 10-09-2011 at 07:32 PM. Reason: add
10-09-2011, 07:53 PM   #2
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I'd consider taking it apart again and making sure all the plugs are seated firmly.
10-10-2011, 03:44 AM   #3
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I'm thinking I will.

I have it sitting in a bag of rice right now, if any moisture got to it.

As another note, it doesn't even recognize that the SD card door is open and it turns on, or doesn't turn off if the door is opened after the camera is turned on.

Oh, and another, I can depress the exposure setting and dial the +/- to a level, but I cannot change anything else like shutter speed when set to manual or other mode setting.

Is there a Pentax Technician in the house?
10-10-2011, 03:44 AM   #4
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How far did you take it apart, and was it working ok for a while after that?
As Aegon says there are a number of ribbon cable connectors, and some of them can be erratic unless seated exactly right. You can do that without having to unsolder anything.
The MF/AF switch needs to mate correctly with the inside mechanism - does moving the switch also move the AF screw in and out of the lens mount?

I had a GX1L where it didn't recognise lenses - that was the ribbon cable at the bottom right of the main board - just applying a little pressure would fix it. Let's hope it is something like that.

Edited to add: I also managed to break the card door switch on the GX1L, it is easy to do if you try to take the back off with the card door closed. Not sure where the switch is on the K110D though.

10-10-2011, 03:50 AM   #5
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Every once and while I will be taking a lens off and it will reset, so maybe that is it. Almost like I'm shifting the frame enough to move a ribbon slightly.

And yes, the AF switch on the side does move the drive screw in and out. But it does nothing because I can't even depress the shutter without it locking/freezing.

Oh yes, when I depress the AE.L button the actuator for the lens blades moves to take a reading.

Yes after I tool it apart last time it has been working perfectly for almost a year now.

Last edited by aT0Mx; 10-10-2011 at 05:19 AM.
10-10-2011, 03:53 AM   #6
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On the GX1L (*ist DL2) that bottom ribbon is bent through quite a tight radius, and is also susceptible to the lower back of the body being flexed inwards. Such as when you hold it differently to change a lens.
10-10-2011, 05:20 AM   #7
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The night in the rice (desiccant) did nothing, next step to take apart and see if anything is loose.

10-10-2011, 05:35 AM   #8
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I had something a bit similar to this happen to my K100d when I put the newest Lithium AA batteries in it. First, it would rapid fire and then lock up. I think the voltage was too high. With Eneloops or older-style CR3 it works fine.
10-10-2011, 06:11 AM   #9
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Lithium AA batteries run at a lower voltage (~1.2 vs ~1.5) the just supply the proper amount of current at a steady rate.
10-10-2011, 06:30 AM   #10
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At least while I don't have a camera to use I can get to my sorting and processing of my old photos.
10-10-2011, 08:14 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by aT0Mx Quote
Lithium AA batteries run at a lower voltage (~1.2 vs ~1.5) the just supply the proper amount of current at a steady rate.
No, that's incorrect. New lithium AAs run a bit higher than alkaline. Sometimes they can be as high as 1.7 or more right out of the package.
NiCads are generally about 1.2V

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10-10-2011, 08:57 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Parallax Quote
No, that's incorrect. New lithium AAs run a bit higher than alkaline. Sometimes they can be as high as 1.7 or more right out of the package.
NiCads are generally about 1.2V

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Can Lithium AA Size Batteries be Used with Canon BG-E2 grip on 30D? - Photo.net Canon EOS Forum
Whoops, yes. Still never had a problem with them. And these were older li-ions that i had in camera and were using them for a couple of months. I can easily fill 2-3 2GB cards with a set of them.
10-10-2011, 09:22 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by aT0Mx Quote
Whoops, yes. Still never had a problem with them. And these were older li-ions that i had in camera and were using them for a couple of months. I can easily fill 2-3 2GB cards with a set of them.
There seems to still be a bit of confusion here. Lithium AA batteries, such as Energizers are Lithium/Iron Disulfide (Li/FeS2) not lithium ion. Lithium-ion AA batteries (1.5ish volt) do not exist. AA "batteries" are actually single cells, not a battery of cells (such as your car battery). Lithium-ion cells are 3.7v as opposed to 1.5 for alkaline, older zinc, lead-acid, etc. There are AA size Lithium-ions, but they are 3.6-3.7 volts, with a peak voltage of 4.2V. Absolutely not interchangeable with AA batteries.

Last edited by Parallax; 10-10-2011 at 09:39 AM.
10-11-2011, 09:00 AM   #14
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ok, yes, right, but still not what is going on with my camera.
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