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I'm in the middle of putting a site about just that here. The Astrophoto 101 section of the "how to" menu explains my workflow from planning to the actual shooting.

Position and elevation matters most with longer lenses above 100 mm. I think it has to do with the fact that when shooting near the horizon the compass can measure the azimuth more precisely then when the camera is aiming near the zenith. I you shoot straight at polaris it is very easy for the tracer to simply rotate the sensor,

I recalibrate every time I see star trailling going up. Again, that happens more often with longer lenses. With 16 to 28 mm lenses sometimes don't calibrate at all and get long precise tracking.

If the camera and lens don't communicate usually the first thing you're promted to do on startup is to input the focal length, that's how it knows.

Clear skies!

Awesome. Might want to update the "What is the Astrotracer" section to say that the O-GPS1 is already built in to certain bodies such as the K-1 so there is no need to add it.

It is critical that you set the focal length on older lenses in order to get good results.

It is also very important that when you do the body calibration that you do it away from large metallic objects. This includes vehicles, and streets and concrete pads that contain rebar. My results dramatically improved when I started doing my calibrations at least 10m away from large metal objects and using the camera in the exact same spot where I did the calibration.

Thanks! Done!

Superb site. I'll send you some K3-II specific QuickStart guides when I get chance...interface is different, will include pics.

Thanks! That would make a great addition to the site thanks!

Just checked your original link and it's not working. Did the site go down? Hope all is ok with you...

Is that right?

I learned a NUMBER of interesting things from this review.

Oops! Just updated the link, thanks for the heads up, haven't had much time to work on it though but I will in the near future.

In my very limited experience, I get the best results if I keep the exposures short, usually 10 seconds then take multiple images and stack them with Deep Sky Stacker, Sequator or something of the sort. It's also possible to stack the frames in Photoshop but I've never tried it.

If the camera body does not recognize and properly decode the lens identification then you should enter the focal length in the menu. On the two bodies I have it is the 4th page of the first set of menus, the ones marked with the camera icon. If the focal length is incorrectly set you will get trailing.

Astro Tracer is not a substitute for a tracking mount but used in conjunction with stacking it can produce some very nice results.