Cropped is correct usage. You would seem to be well set to take photos of the lunar eclipse tonight, weather permitting of course.
PS. Here is a guide to lunar eclipse photography. It's old but still useful.
How to Photograph a Lunar Eclipse
I have read elsewhere that the Danjon value for this particular eclipse is expected to be 2.8. That's information you will need to use the exposure chart in the guide. Shoot RAW and when in doubt, underexpose. On Pentax cameras you'll be able to recover the blacks in post processing but going the other way, trying to recover the highlights, is tougher. Use as high an f-ratio as you can (but no higher than, say, f/16) for sharpness before raising the ISO. In any case you don't want exposures to go beyond, say, 1/8 of a second or more conservatively 1/15 of a second to avoid blurring from sidereal motion. (The moon isn't quite moving sidereally but at that exposure length it is close enough.) That's a total guess; I haven't done the math. But cropping raises the effective magnification, reducing what you would be able to get away with taking photos of star fields at a given focal length.
Totality may be the only problem. It is roughly 13 stops dimmer than the full moon! If you can't get a good combination from the charts you may have to select one that puts you over 10 seconds exposure time, which would then allow you to use Astrotracer to follow the moon's motion. But in that case be sure you have done the calibration well.
PS. I may have been a little conservative. I was able to do 1/4 of a second at 200mm f/8 during totality. Zooming the images to 16x on the camera LCD (I took many to stack them), they still look reasonably sharp. Probably not tack sharp but good enough.