I recently purchased a Pentax Auto Bellows M with the slide copier attachment. I am using it with my K-3 and a older 50mm, f/ 1.8 lens to try and copy our collection of slides. I realize that I cannot use the settings on the Bellows to copy the complete slide. I have been experimenting thinking I need to move the slide farther away from the camera than permitted by the copier bellows. I released the copier bellows from the lens and tried to find the required distance. It seems that I can only find one position for the lens and camera bellows that will allow me to accurately focus but this only allows me to capture about 68% of the slide. Do any of you have suggestion on how to capture the full slide on the K-3 cropped sensor? I realize the purchase of a K-1 would solve the problem but I have been unable to convince my CFO of the need. 😉

different focal length?

What would happen if you used extension tubes between the camera and the lens instead of the bellows? (Shorten the distance between the camera and lens even further while lengthening the distance between the lens and the slide copier?)

I have toyed with the thought of using a 35mm Macro but have been reluctant to purchase one. I had hoped to find someone who had more experience with the Autobellows for help.

Thanks for taking the time to help.

You are in a situation where no one will be able to provide a solution a priori. Only experimentation with multiple lenses would resolve whether what you want to achieve is even possible. Here are some unambiguously true observations:
1) I have a Pentax autobellows, the slide copier attachment, and both a K3 and a K1.
a) because of the shape of the cameras, neither can be mounted directly on the bellows, a short extension tube must be added
b) it is absolutely not possible to focus on the entirety of a 35mm slide using an APS-C camera (= the K3) and any lens that I own, and I have tried the 35mm macro, 40mm f2.8; 50mm f2.8 macro, 70mm f2.4, and 100mm short-mount bellows lens.

2) the degree of close focus is determined by the extension between camera sensor and lens. with a short lens such as a 35mm macro, the minimum bellows extension would cause focusing far too close to allow coverage of all of a 35mm slide or negative using either an APS-C or FF camera body. The 35mm on a bellows would, at minimum bellows extension, be magnifying greater than life-size. The 35mm macro could be used to copy slides but only if you do not use the bellows.
3) The Pentax bellows + slide copier is designed to copy slides using a FF body and a lens of 50mm focal length. It may not work properly even using a K1 + 50mm lens because the camera cannot be mounted directly to the bellows as required to achieve full coverage of a 35mm slide.

I WOULD STRONGLY RECOMMEND purchasing a little desk-top slide copier, they cost about $100 to $130. They are quick and reliable. I very much doubt you will get better results using a camera instead. I have found that a limitation in digitizing slides is the slide itself, especially the emulsion which seems to impart a texture to a digital copy that degrades IQ. This texture doesn't seem to show when a slide is projected - no idea why not - but is shows in just about all slides that I've digitized with the desk-top unit; a flat-bed scanner that had a slide-copy attachment, and slides I've sent to a commercial scanner (Scan Cafe). ANOTHER THING: To my eye, the colors never turn out right in a scan, and I've never been able to get them 100% satisfactory no matter what I do to the sliders in LR. Most unsatisfactory are the greens, which to me always look dull and "murky." Upping saturation and/or vibrance any which way may improve the greens, but the colors quickly start look artificial and carnival-like. Blue skies are sometimes OK. Colors at the warm end of the spectrum = red, yellow, orange - are usually decent in scans.

I did some more research and found several articles written several years ago by forum members. Those members suggested using a 70mm lens. Moving the slide copier and the bellows as far apart as possible and adding an extension tube between the lens and slide copier bellows. I used a set of step-up step-down rings to provide the needed 2 to 3 inch extension tube and added a 49mm filter ring for the slide copier connection ring. I am using a LED tracing screen as a light source and am able to copy around 120 slides/hour. I just wish I had been a better photographer in my film days.

G'day. I am fairly new to photgraphy and I have a desire to learn how to take good macro/ultra macro shots.
In just a couple of months, my camera and lens collection grew from 1 camera and 1 lens to 6 cameras and 17 lenses, 2 tripods, various UV, CPL and ND filters and other bits and pieces. My collection is far from complete.

I have read the above posts and I find myself in a similar situation with my pentax K-X and m42 Bellows.
I have tried 2 different m42 lenses (50mm f2, 70-230 f4.5-5.6) without finding any focus at any length.
After reading the above posts, am I correct in assuming I will need extension tubes? I am starting to think a wider lens may be the answer but this is just my guess..

I also have a "close up +4" magnifier filter that I cant seem to get any focus with on any lens. Do I need other magnifyers to get this to work?

I have watched many videos and read quite a few articles regarding macro photography and I think I have a decent grasp of what has been suggested, yet the Bellows and close up filter are still sort of a mystery to me as I cant get either to work for me.

I am guessing fault lays with the operator. As all I own is these two, I cant yet experiment with extension tubes or reverse lens mount adapters. I really would like to get an understanding.

From what I have read/watched, I still need to obtain extension tubes and a lens reversal mount and possibly more lighting. I then need to consider if the lenses I have are good enough.
I purchased an L.E.D. ring flash but this may not be enough.

I have been experimenting both indoors and outside.
Wind is my enemy, so I intend to build a half decent macro studio indoors where I think only the light will be my issue.

If there is any other advice for a relative noob of macro photography, especially concerning bellows &/or close up x4, I welcome it.

Thank you for your time.

I have sorted my issue.

Good! What was your solution? Others having the same difficulties might find what you did to get things working helpful for their own efforts.

What I needed to do was slow down and take my time. Once I did that, I realized that the focus was a lot closer than I thought. I just needed to move in closer to the subject is all.

Good Morning, I realize that I'm some what late here - but, I think I have a solution or at least some information for you. Quite a while back I was looking for some information on macro and came across this digital "book" that goes through all the various combinations of Pentax Bellows / macro lenses and an assortment of just Pentax lenses.

• http://extreme-macro.co.uk/bellows/The_Pentax_Bellows.pdf

If you flip to the back third of the book, the author has a set of tables that I believe specifically addresses what you may be looking for. Take a look at around page 92 - and it provides some guidance in terms of reduced magnification factor.

By the way, the mailman just delivered my Pentax Bellows M set. I want to try out a few things - along with some slides from the ship I was on some 50 years ago while in the Navy. I still need to unpack the whole entire "care" package - but I think I have all the parts to get started.

Actually Interested_Observer the book was mine and I am just finishing a new one "Pentax Macro & Close-Up Accessories". I would be happy to assist you on bellows stuff if you want to PM or email me oneill@nucleus.com

Murray