Hi SoldBear, are you still available and doing well? Best

(I'm the one who bought something from you a few years ago)

Hi,

I was reading your old posts about the aperture arm problem so I thought I'd ask you since you seem to know what you're doing. If you have a look at my thread maybe u can help me out.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/250133-random-mi...lop-issue.html
that black thing sticking out is it a spring that can be pushed back in place?does anything else seem odd?
what do u suggest I do?
1)Send it back since its still under warranty.But that means the dealer would send it to another country since there is no service in my country.That could take a month or more.
2)Proceed to amend it myself if its an easy job?

What do you think caused it?
I recently bought a sigma 24-70 f2.8 which is a little on the heavy side, and a samyang 8mm which is quite a tight fit.do u think any of these 2 caused it?

Thank you very much for your time.Its greatly appreciated.

Regards
Andy

I just made an additional posting to an very old thread, where we discussed problems concerning bouncing with Metz 40MZ series flashes.

It's about a Metz statement about the issue, published a year ago by a user in a German forum.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-flashes-lighting-technique/176988-...ml#post2481827

The 383 Super does not require a module. The 36DX, 444D, 422D require a module, essentially a hotfoot with some circuits to interface with the camera. The 30DX I'm selling include a PT-1D module for Pentax. In one of the photos in my previous post, you can see the module by itself, not attached to the flash.

If the flash is old (e.g. the 383 Super or 36DX we're talking about), replacing the bulb does not make economic sense. In most cases, the bulb is not available. It's cheaper and easier to buy a replacement flash.

I'm not in a hurry. Waiting a few days is OK. In terms of payment, I take Paypal, check or money order.

That is the model I was looking at. I found one for $20 plus shipping, but I've been a bit hesitant about it. After reading your response, I think I'll look for something better.

I do have a bid in on a Super 383, which I'll know for sure about tomorrow (about 24 hours from now). I've bid on four of them now and been unsuccessful on the first three, so I'm not optimistic. If it falls through, I would be interested in your 36DX if you can wait until tomorrow for a decision. If you can't, I certainly understand.

One question (if you don't mind) about the Super 383. You mention a module for the 36DX. Doe the 383 require one to use with a K-r? If so, where would one of those be found?

One last flash question (perhaps silly but I'm not well versed in these things as yet): can the bulb/flash element be replaced if necessary? I'm guessing no, but I suppose you never know.

Finally, how would I arrange payment to you? Than ks for all of your advice and input.

Walt

I've read a number of your posts on using "old" flashes with dSLRs. I hate to impose, but do you have any thoughts on using a Sunpak Auto Zoom 933 with a K-r. I have a chance to perhaps get one at a fairly low price, but I don't want to pull the trigger on it if it won't be a good fit with my K-r.

Thanks for all of your helpful and informative posts.

Walt

hey I've seen you using step down rings as lens hoods. im very impressed with it! However, i am wondering if you have tried a 28-25 step down ring before? especially for the fa 50. thanks!