Took out the glass of one of my SCOPTIC made FD-K adapters today. Sat down with some lens-spanners, but soon discovered that it only took my fingers. If you want to do this yourself, just grab the black metal around the lens and turn counterclockwise and the glass will unscrew. I haven't taken appart the lens unit itself, but I get the feeling when looking at its edges that it may be a two lens one group solution. Not sure.
Anyway, while it is anoying that they sell the FD to Nikon F adapter with and without glass, and the FD to Pentax K adapter only with glass, it is so simple to take out the glass, and they are so cheap anyway, that it doesn't really matter.
Without the glass, the difference in focal flange distance between FD and K and the extra thickness of the adapter means that this is like using an extension tube of about 10-12 mm (haven't measured the thickness of the adapter). That has little effect on a 200mm macro, but the max macro scale should be slightly larger than 1:1 and the close focus distance should go down somewhat, and there should be a tiny light loss (but less than with the glass in the adapter). I loose infinity focus, but it focus to about 3m, which is enough when chasing bugs, which has been my intention with this lens. And no glass of course means no optical degradation...
No side to side comparison, which I intend to do, but at least an apetizer;
I know the last shot isn't a success since only the right wing is in focus, but that also demonstrates the limitation of this oterhwise nice lens. I have to shoot stopped down, and I can't really close down more than f11 and still have enough light in the viewfinder to focus, but that isn't enough for all motifes.
Anyway, I think this adapter, with or without glass, probably even more so without glass, is an excellent way to get cheap macro glass to your Pentax camera, be it Pentaxors Vivitar 90mm or my Canon 200mm, or any other of the classical Canon or 3rd party 50/90/100/105/135 etc macro lenses in FD mount. As long as you are prepared to learn to work closed down. For stationary subjects where you can work with tripod etc or slow bugs "close - open" ring on the adapter is fast enough. For fast bugs one need to focus closed down, there isn't usually time for anything else. That is a limitation, but you can learn to work with it.