[stevebrot]

does the Judas window on the MX enable the aperture numbers on most Super Taks or SMC Taks to show in the viewfinder

It depends on the lens and how accurately the threads are cut. I have several M42 lenses and while the aperture scale is visible to my three bodies with Judas window, only two (both Vivitar) align properly and then only with one of my two Genuine Pentax M42 adapters.


Steve

[LesDMess]

But heavy and large...Oh, so heavy and large! (I have the 1000 DTL)
Steve

Typical size but of course all so much bigger then the M series . . .

[stevebrot]

Typical size but of course all so much bigger then the M series . . .

Interesting side-by-side shot. The face-on, front view is a little deceptive. I too have a KX (in silver finish) and both my 1000 DTL and my Singlex TLS are larger (the Singlex much less so), particularly in the hand. The 1000 DTL is almost 1.5 cm wider than the KX, several millimeters taller at the pentaprism, about 3 mm taller at the top plate and 6 mm deeper(!!) camera back to mount flange. The Singlex is the heaviest of the three and the KX the lightest. To give credit where credit it due, all three cameras look tiny next to and are lighter than a Topcon Super-D or a Nikon F Photomic.

Put my Super Program back-to-back with the 1000 DTL and it is hard to believe that both bodies use the same film format.

The KX has the same basic dimensions as the Spotmatic and the Spotmatic, IIRC, was the most compact interchangeable lens SLR you could buy prior to the release of the Olympus OM-1. (The Fujica models mentioned above may have been the smallest for a year or so, I don't remember when the various bodies were released.)


Steve


P.S. The extra bulk may explain why the shutter sound on the 1000 DTL is so sweet...not as hushed as my Canon-P, but still sweet.

[stevebrot]

...speaking of Ricoh...The original Singlex TLS is a bit heavy, but is only a little larger than a Spotmatic and is one of the sturdiest M42 metered bodies you can buy (bullet-proof Copal "Square" vertical-run metal shutter). The Singlex II might also be a good choice. It is sort of like a M42 version of the Ricoh XR-1.

[séamuis]

To give credit where credit it due, all three cameras look tiny next to and are lighter than a Topcon Super-D or a Nikon F Photomic.

most people, especially those who use them have no idea how big, heavy and clunky their F's are. terrible camera design IMO.

[stevebrot]

I know a lot of text on this thread has been devoted to M42 lenses adapted onto an aperture-priority auto-exposure K-mount body, but I must point out a small (or maybe not so small) usability issue with this sort of setup. While I definitely enjoy using my M42 lenses adapted to my more modern bodies, they really are best used on a body that allows use of the lens' automatic aperture coupling.

Despite what the Spotmatic manual may say, stop-down metered cameras are generally used with a single meter reading making do for a series of shots. Accurate focus is generally more important than up-to-the-moment metering accuracy and accurate focus requires that the lens be wide open immediately before the shot.

The flow goes like this:

• Meter the subject
• Turn-off meter (opens the lens)
• Focus
• Shoot (repeat these last two until subject or light changes or until you run out of film)

The flow with an adapted K-mount body (using a similar approach to metering) is:

• Meter the subject with lens aperture closed
• Move A/M switch to A position
• Focus
• Move A/M switch to M position
• Shoot (repeat last 4 steps until subject or light changes or until you run out of film)

An alternate flow is that works nicely (particularly with AE bodies):

• Move A/M switch to M position
• Twist aperture ring full open
• Focus
• Twist aperture ring (stop down) until desired shutter speed or meter position is attained
• Shoot (repeat last four steps until you run out of film)

My preference is to simply use a screw-mount body.


Steve

(BTW...built-in metering is high overrated. I generally get equivalent and often better results with a hand-held meter switching between incident and reflected measurement depending on subject.)

[titrisol]

The original Spottie is the one I would buy.
Of ocurse the SPII has the advantage of having a hot shoe.

[Nesster]

Well, I just bought a Fujica 605N For $11.90. Seems to be in good shape and seller stated everything works.

I'm going to be keeping my eye out for one of those Petax SV's though.

And I though LBA was bad

Congratulations. You know you'll have to buy every Pentax mentioned in this thread

[Colorado CJ]

Yeah, I'm afraid of what my house will look like this time next year, won't be able to find a place to sit for all the cameras around

[Tom in Delaware]

Spotmatic F. The most versatile of the Spotmatics. Works fine in stop-down mode with non-SMC Takumars, slap a SMC Takumar on it and it's pretty sweet.

[p. rex]

I would recommend one of the later Spotmatics, which work with the aperture lever SMC Takumars to provide open-aperture metering, as noted by Tom. The Spotmatic F is great for manual shooting; the ESII is simply sublime with aperture-priority automatic mode. Just set the aperture to something roughly appropriate for what you're doing, then focus and snap away. It notes the aperture setting, sets shutter speed accordingly, and stops down when you fire, like a screw-mount ME. You've even got exposure compensation if you need it, and I can get fine results from slide film. They're a little bulkier than the other Spotmatics, but really nothing terrible.

[Colorado CJ]

Well I got an Asahi Spotmatic with a Super Tak 50mm f1.4 lens coming in as well (made a new thread about it here). Got both for $46.00.

[TomB_tx]

Well I got an Asahi Spotmatic with a Super Tak 50mm f1.4 lens coming in as well (made a new thread about it here). Got both for $46.00.

Good buy - you'll enjoy it! You may find the 1.4 has turned a yellow tint, as both I bought recently had. (Not the brown-amber coating used in that era.) I set up a box holding the lenses a few inches under a black light flourescent (f-stop wide open) for a few days and the yellow tint cleared up well.
If the image looks yellow though the viewfinder (and on film) - that's the problem. I hear it blamed on either the glass or the element adhesive. But it's easy to fix.

[stevebrot]

You may find the 1.4 has turned a yellow tint

...caused by radiation's effect (thoriated glass) on the balsam cement used to secure the elements together.


Steve

[Colorado CJ]

My $11.00 Fujica 605n arrived! It's in very good condition and everything works. I'll have to replace the light seals and mirror bumper though as they are pretty gummy.

Can't wait to try my Takumars with it!