I was doing some more web surfing this morning, somewhat looking for more information / points of view on this topic and stumbled (the coffee pot was still brewing) across this...
Yes, I keep going back to Nikon since they are currently the only ones who have bodies with and without AA filters that you can essentially do a side by side A/B test with. I found it interesting to have read the following...
Quote: Within the zone of best sharpness for the lenses that we've primarily used for comparison (a 50mm and 85mm prime) the D800E only held a meaningful lead over the D800 between F4 and F5.6. By F11 diffraction narrows the difference between the two models to the extent that the D800 and D800E produce virtually identical results. By F16 - a reasonable working aperture for landscape photographers that want front-to-back focus - the difference between the D800 and D800E's Raw output is academic. So if you're a portrait photographer working between F4-5.6 then yes - in your day-to-day photography you'll see the benefit of the D800E's special sensor design. If you shoot wide open, or stopped right down though, you probably won't.
Most of our direct comparisons between the D800 and D800E were made from their respective Raw output, but as you'll see from our JPEG comparisons and from our image quality comparison pages the D800E's JPEG output is significantly superior to the D800's at optimal aperture settings. Not only do the D800E's JPEGs look sharper at default settings, they contain noticeably more detail - something that will be very attractive to casual photographers that want to save storage space on cards and hard drives, but also to professionals that want better looking JPEG 'proofs'. Even in our F16 comparison images the D800E's JPEGs appear 'better' although close inspection reveals that they are no more detailed.
Ultimately then, if you're weighing up the D800 and D800E, in our opinion there is no obvious downside to opting for the more expensive model beyond the extra cost. You get better image quality in both RAW and JPEG mode (although diffraction and lens aberrations remove that benefit at certain aperture settings). And color moiré in still images - in the relatively few instances we've encountered it - is typically only marginally more visible in the D800E than it is in equivalent scene elements captured by the D800. Like the D800, the Nikon D800E earns our coveted gold award.
Obviously, the only thing that counts to us is how the K5IIs actually performs as opposed to either the K5 or the K5 II. Until then I think that Nikon is a reasonable standing reference. One thing that it does it serve as a stalking horse in terms of what tests and approaches bring out the differences, an then what does it mean to your shooting style.
So far, I think - or what sticks in my mind are the following areas:
- Lens types - What focal lengths tend to work best (UWA, WA, Normal, mild Telephoto, Telephoto). I bring this up since everything I have seen tends to use 50s, 85s, and 150s for a basis of comparison. This thread's original question, I think brings up a pretty unique question - as to what does loosing the AA filter mean to wider angle lenses.
- Aperture - This link above, straight out indicates the more open the aperture is, the greater the affect. f4 to f5.6 - I am wondering how this translates to the APS-c size sensor from the various analysis done of the FF size sensor, or does sensor size not matter. I don't know, so I am just taking this point on the principal expressed in the link.
- Distance - I have not seen this expressed as a criteria. Just my thinking - and I don't know here. I am just wondering out loud if with a wider lens and the larger area each pixel needs to represent, if there is any differentiation. Thinking some more along this line of thought - if the sensor provides a % increase in sharpness (which would be wonderful to quantify), it should be equally apparent across all shooting distances. My main thought here is that if you are shooting landscapes, say several miles away, will this additional sharpness actually be able to be apparent.
- Print Size - Again, just my own musings here. How large of a print would be necessary to actually be able to have the additional sharpness noticeable? Any size? or is there a threshold of ?????
We will actually start to know, probably by Halloween (cameras available on 10/15, and then say another 2 weeks to test and write reviews...).
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I ran across some additional links, specifically this one, again from the Luminous Landscape...
I found this particular interesting in that in this writeup/analysis, the question of wide angle lenses are beginning to be touched on. 14mm is the widest lens that they are considering to use, and in particular only the best glass.
Another set of criteria was also brought up...
Quote: When I wrote my essay on choosing between the D800 and D800e back in March, 2012 I wrote that it was important to select the best lenses possible and also wrote the following about how to get the highest image quality that these cameras can produce.
– Use the optimum aperture. Apertures above about f/11 introduce diffraction which effectively acts as an unintentional AA filter
– Use a really solid tripod and head
– Use Live View, or mirror lock up with a remote release or self timer.
– Use critical focusing, using single point AF and LV focus magnification (up to 23X)
– When shooting hand-held use lenses with VR when possible, and also a high shutter speed... 2X or 3 X the reciprocal of the focal length, not the 1/focal length of olden days
– Use the lowest possible ISO, though as we'll see the camera is very clean up to and including ISO 1600
This brings up another couple of points.
- Shake Reduction - This is something that Nikon does not have. You have to be able to purchase a lens with stabilization for this to be applicable. Pentax with the in body stabilization, covers all lenses, all focal lengths. Thus, this would be a potential additional plus when handholding.
- Lowest Possible ISO - This is an equivalent here, since the K5's sensor meets the FF sensors in Dynamic Range. The lower ISOs of the K5 family at ISO80 would be a plus. Its not 50, but then again its not 100 or 200.
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Falconeye has published some tests in terms of the difference of sharpness between the Nikon D800 and D800e.
The bottom line is (given that I read everything as intended), how strong is the AA filter in the body that sports the AA filter? So, there is not a single rule of measure between any model with and without an AA filter, it is specifically tuned to the make and model - which makes perfect sense. Pentax K5II vs K5IIs is going to be different, based on the AA filter in the K5II / K5. We need to wait for the bodies and some folks to test the two and make the comparisons. That also bring up yet another question. Is the AA filter the same in the K5 and the K5II - probably, but Pentax has not specifically said (other than K5 = K5II plus these upgrades).
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There have also been some posting about comparing lens performance across both film and digital (with AA filters). The same lens on film has very sharp corners, and on digital (with AA), becomes very soft.
So, by loosing the AA filter, the performance of some lenses may be increased. That would be favorable in the use of WA and UWA glass.