First roll complete...

LFLee · 08-05-2013, 05:26 PM

Finally complete my first roll, Kodak Ektar 100 w/ P67II + 105mm! My first ever 120 film.
I carried it with me while I shoot mostly with my digital, only the absolutely nice shot (after capturing with K5), I pull out the beast.

Will bring it to develop tomorrow. Hopefully I didn't mess it up!!

**filoxophy** · 08-05-2013, 08:29 PM

That's a lovely piece of kit! Keep wanting to go MF myself, but my digital gear still needs filled out. Look forward to the pics.

**gofour3** · 08-05-2013, 09:54 PM

Yes very nice!

Phil.

LFLee · 08-05-2013, 11:17 PM

It is a little scary as it is more than a dollar a click for me (negative + develop)! 0.0

Nuff · 08-06-2013, 02:49 AM

$1 per click is nothing. My K5 cost me more in $ per good photos. Especially with the depreciation as I bought it at full price. That's 1000+ good photos right there. (My good photo hit rate is a lot higher on MF than APSC).

Silent Street · 08-06-2013, 10:48 PM

I would keep going even when it is $10 per click. Make every photo count! And with the 67ii and a good eye, it's not an impossible task.

LFLee · 08-08-2013, 11:14 AM

I got the negative back, as well as printed photo.

Surprisingly, I nailed the focus 9/10, while shooting at f2.4 and f2.8. It is easier than I thought with shooting film!

I put myself in difficult position as I shoot about 2/3 of them in backlit situation.

I shoot in Av mode, and I wanted brighter picture, so I have +1/3EV on all of them. The way I meter is mostly using center point metering, then using exposure lock to lock the exposure value (The way I I started to shoot in Av mode in DSLR). Some of them still a little darker than I would like, not sure if this is due to development of the negatives or what.

For few shots, the shutter speed go as low as 1/45, and surprisingly, I don't see blurring (well, maybe the 1/10 that I think is OOF is actually due to shake).

Anyway, I am pretty happy with the result, and can't wait to scan them this weekend. The prints is only 4x6, while I specifically ask the store to "print the whole frame" while leaving the side border blank, they cut my frame to fill the 4x6. Will have to scan them myself this weekend to get the whole 6x7 experience -- now reading on how to scan using Epson v500 to maintain the film colors, I don't plan to do any processing except maybe push the EV on some.

Will post a photo of the prints tonight!

Edit: Here is the outcome! 9/10 (1/10 is more or less the same as one of the 9, so did not include that)

Last edited by LFLee; 08-08-2013 at 03:57 PM.

Nuff · 08-08-2013, 04:58 PM

Looks great, some of them look underexposed and bit pushed. Film isn't great at recovering shadows. That's digital, film will have grainy shadows. If you try to recover highlights film is fantastic. Also for people shots I recommend not to use ektar. The skin will be too red and it has smaller latitude than films better suited to that task.
Get some kodak portra 400 or fuji pro 400h and shoot them at iso 200 (or even 100). Both look great with skin (that's what they are for) and will give you better shutter speed. With 67 it's advised to keep it at or above 1/250.

Last of all, get an incident light meter. You will never play around with shutter speeds again. Not to mention you will nail every exposure.

LFLee · 08-08-2013, 05:14 PM

Originally posted by Nuff

Looks great, some of them look underexposed and bit pushed. Film isn't great at recovering shadows. That's digital, film will have grainy shadows. If you try to recover highlights film is fantastic. Also for people shots I recommend not to use ektar. The skin will be too red and it has smaller latitude than films better suited to that task.
Get some kodak portra 400 or fuji pro 400h and shoot them at iso 200 (or even 100). Both look great with skin (that's what they are for) and will give you better shutter speed. With 67 it's advised to keep it at or above 1/250.

Last of all, get an incident light meter. You will never play around with shutter speeds again. Not to mention you will nail every exposure.

I use Ektar because some people recommend it for portrait...

But that's some great advise! Thanks! So basically 1 stop/2 stop overexpose, how is this compare to using the exposure compensation to +1Ev/+2Ev?
I think I will get Portra 400 as you mentioned, heard good things about them.

Nuff · 08-08-2013, 06:08 PM

I like both, Portra has bit more punchy colours. Get a roll of each, play around with settings and take notes. Then you will know what looks best to you.

And yes, it's 1 or 2 stop overexposure for whole roll. you can add even more with the EV settings later, you don't want to use up your ev range from the start and not be able to overexpose more. Don't worry, those films can handle easily +5EV.

I also like Ektar, but not for people. It's very saturated and contrasty, like slide film and it's great for everything else.

Anyway, here's pro 400h shot at iso 200 (or maybe even 100, measured using incident meter) at golden hour.

here's some portra 400 shot at iso 200 (using TTL meter in pentax mx).

LFLee · 08-08-2013, 07:25 PM

Originally posted by Nuff

I like both, Portra has bit more punchy colours. Get a roll of each, play around with settings and take notes. Then you will know what looks best to you.

And yes, it's 1 or 2 stop overexposure for whole roll. you can add even more with the EV settings later, you don't want to use up your ev range from the start and not be able to overexpose more. Don't worry, those films can handle easily +5EV.

I also like Ektar, but not for people. It's very saturated and contrasty, like slide film and it's great for everything else.

Anyway, here's pro 400h shot at iso 200 (or maybe even 100, measured using incident meter) at golden hour.

here's some portra 400 shot at iso 200 (using TTL meter in pentax mx).

Thanks for sharing, I like the Portra color, will try it your way!

**gofour3** · 08-08-2013, 07:35 PM

Originally posted by LFLee

The way I meter is mostly using center point metering, then using exposure lock to lock the exposure value

Good stuff! Try the matrix metering mode & leave the shutter on “Automatic” setting, then leave everything else alone.

The matrix metering is very accurate and it will give you a good idea what the AE prism is capable of.

I’d also recommend trying some b&w, it’s a bit more forgiving.

Happy shooting!

Phil.

LFLee · 08-08-2013, 07:59 PM

Originally posted by gofour3

Good stuff! Try the matrix metering mode & leave the shutter on “Automatic” setting, then leave everything else alone.

The matrix metering is very accurate and it will give you a good idea what the AE prism is capable of.

I’d also recommend trying some b&w, it’s a bit more forgiving.

Happy shooting!

Phil.

Hi Phil.... use the matrix metering even in backlit situation (I like to shoot this way)?
I read many places that the matrix metering is very accurate, but in backlit situation?

**gofour3** · 08-10-2013, 09:11 AM

Originally posted by LFLee

Hi Phil.... use the matrix metering even in backlit situation (I like to shoot this way)?
I read many places that the matrix metering is very accurate, but in backlit situation?

Try a test roll of b&w and let the AE’s matrix do its thing, then bracket with the exposure compensation if you think it’s needed.

I just got my 67ii/AE two months ago and am putting the different meter modes through various tests.

It’s the only way for me to figure out what it’s capable of doing. Just make sure you record the mode/shutter speed/aperture/exposure comp for each shot so you can compare after you get the film processed.

Phil.

Nuff · 08-10-2013, 07:33 PM - **1 Like**

To help you out and get an idea what film is capable of, someone did some exposure tests using an incident lightmeter, so there was no second guessing what it should be. Also you can get an idea of what the film looks like when it's overexposed.

Portra 400 test: Portra 400 test - a set on Flickr
Ektar 100 test: Ektar 100 Test - a set on Flickr
Older Portra 400NC test with up to +10 and +12 overexposure: Portra 400NC test - a set on Flickr

As you can see from the tests, don't be afraid to give it more light, problems start if you don't give it enough.

08-05-2013, 05:26 PM	#1
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292	First roll complete... Finally complete my first roll, Kodak Ektar 100 w/ P67II + 105mm! My first ever 120 film. I carried it with me while I shoot mostly with my digital, only the absolutely nice shot (after capturing with K5), I pull out the beast. Will bring it to develop tomorrow. Hopefully I didn't mess it up!!

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08-05-2013, 08:29 PM	#2
filoxophy Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 1,132	That's a lovely piece of kit! Keep wanting to go MF myself, but my digital gear still needs filled out. Look forward to the pics.

08-05-2013, 09:54 PM	#3
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Yes very nice! Phil.

08-05-2013, 11:17 PM	#4
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292 Original Poster	It is a little scary as it is more than a dollar a click for me (negative + develop)! 0.0

08-06-2013, 02:49 AM	#5
Nuff Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sydney Posts: 671	$1 per click is nothing. My K5 cost me more in $ per good photos. Especially with the depreciation as I bought it at full price. That's 1000+ good photos right there. (My good photo hit rate is a lot higher on MF than APSC).

08-06-2013, 10:48 PM	#6
Silent Street Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Castlemaine, Victoria, AUS Photos: Albums Posts: 1,151	I would keep going even when it is $10 per click. Make every photo count! And with the 67ii and a good eye, it's not an impossible task.

08-08-2013, 11:14 AM	#7
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292 Original Poster	I got the negative back, as well as printed photo. Surprisingly, I nailed the focus 9/10, while shooting at f2.4 and f2.8. It is easier than I thought with shooting film! I put myself in difficult position as I shoot about 2/3 of them in backlit situation. I shoot in Av mode, and I wanted brighter picture, so I have +1/3EV on all of them. The way I meter is mostly using center point metering, then using exposure lock to lock the exposure value (The way I I started to shoot in Av mode in DSLR). Some of them still a little darker than I would like, not sure if this is due to development of the negatives or what. For few shots, the shutter speed go as low as 1/45, and surprisingly, I don't see blurring (well, maybe the 1/10 that I think is OOF is actually due to shake). Anyway, I am pretty happy with the result, and can't wait to scan them this weekend. The prints is only 4x6, while I specifically ask the store to "print the whole frame" while leaving the side border blank, they cut my frame to fill the 4x6. Will have to scan them myself this weekend to get the whole 6x7 experience -- now reading on how to scan using Epson v500 to maintain the film colors, I don't plan to do any processing except maybe push the EV on some. Will post a photo of the prints tonight! Edit: Here is the outcome! 9/10 (1/10 is more or less the same as one of the 9, so did not include that) Last edited by LFLee; 08-08-2013 at 03:57 PM.

08-08-2013, 04:58 PM	#8
Nuff Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sydney Posts: 671	Looks great, some of them look underexposed and bit pushed. Film isn't great at recovering shadows. That's digital, film will have grainy shadows. If you try to recover highlights film is fantastic. Also for people shots I recommend not to use ektar. The skin will be too red and it has smaller latitude than films better suited to that task. Get some kodak portra 400 or fuji pro 400h and shoot them at iso 200 (or even 100). Both look great with skin (that's what they are for) and will give you better shutter speed. With 67 it's advised to keep it at or above 1/250. Last of all, get an incident light meter. You will never play around with shutter speeds again. Not to mention you will nail every exposure.

08-08-2013, 05:14 PM	#9
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292 Original Poster	Originally posted by Nuff Looks great, some of them look underexposed and bit pushed. Film isn't great at recovering shadows. That's digital, film will have grainy shadows. If you try to recover highlights film is fantastic. Also for people shots I recommend not to use ektar. The skin will be too red and it has smaller latitude than films better suited to that task. Get some kodak portra 400 or fuji pro 400h and shoot them at iso 200 (or even 100). Both look great with skin (that's what they are for) and will give you better shutter speed. With 67 it's advised to keep it at or above 1/250. Last of all, get an incident light meter. You will never play around with shutter speeds again. Not to mention you will nail every exposure. I use Ektar because some people recommend it for portrait... But that's some great advise! Thanks! So basically 1 stop/2 stop overexpose, how is this compare to using the exposure compensation to +1Ev/+2Ev? I think I will get Portra 400 as you mentioned, heard good things about them.

08-08-2013, 06:08 PM	#10
Nuff Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sydney Posts: 671	I like both, Portra has bit more punchy colours. Get a roll of each, play around with settings and take notes. Then you will know what looks best to you. And yes, it's 1 or 2 stop overexposure for whole roll. you can add even more with the EV settings later, you don't want to use up your ev range from the start and not be able to overexpose more. Don't worry, those films can handle easily +5EV. I also like Ektar, but not for people. It's very saturated and contrasty, like slide film and it's great for everything else. Anyway, here's pro 400h shot at iso 200 (or maybe even 100, measured using incident meter) at golden hour. here's some portra 400 shot at iso 200 (using TTL meter in pentax mx).

08-08-2013, 07:25 PM	#11
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292 Original Poster	Originally posted by Nuff I like both, Portra has bit more punchy colours. Get a roll of each, play around with settings and take notes. Then you will know what looks best to you. And yes, it's 1 or 2 stop overexposure for whole roll. you can add even more with the EV settings later, you don't want to use up your ev range from the start and not be able to overexpose more. Don't worry, those films can handle easily +5EV. I also like Ektar, but not for people. It's very saturated and contrasty, like slide film and it's great for everything else. Anyway, here's pro 400h shot at iso 200 (or maybe even 100, measured using incident meter) at golden hour. here's some portra 400 shot at iso 200 (using TTL meter in pentax mx). Thanks for sharing, I like the Portra color, will try it your way!

08-08-2013, 07:35 PM	#12
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by LFLee The way I meter is mostly using center point metering, then using exposure lock to lock the exposure value Good stuff! Try the matrix metering mode & leave the shutter on “Automatic” setting, then leave everything else alone. The matrix metering is very accurate and it will give you a good idea what the AE prism is capable of. I’d also recommend trying some b&w, it’s a bit more forgiving. Happy shooting! Phil.

08-08-2013, 07:59 PM	#13
LFLee Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Southern California Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,292 Original Poster	Originally posted by gofour3 Good stuff! Try the matrix metering mode & leave the shutter on “Automatic” setting, then leave everything else alone. The matrix metering is very accurate and it will give you a good idea what the AE prism is capable of. I’d also recommend trying some b&w, it’s a bit more forgiving. Happy shooting! Phil. Hi Phil.... use the matrix metering even in backlit situation (I like to shoot this way)? I read many places that the matrix metering is very accurate, but in backlit situation?

08-10-2013, 09:11 AM	#14
gofour3 Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 8,091	Originally posted by LFLee Hi Phil.... use the matrix metering even in backlit situation (I like to shoot this way)? I read many places that the matrix metering is very accurate, but in backlit situation? Try a test roll of b&w and let the AE’s matrix do its thing, then bracket with the exposure compensation if you think it’s needed. I just got my 67ii/AE two months ago and am putting the different meter modes through various tests. It’s the only way for me to figure out what it’s capable of doing. Just make sure you record the mode/shutter speed/aperture/exposure comp for each shot so you can compare after you get the film processed. Phil.

08-10-2013, 07:33 PM - 1 Like	#15
Nuff Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sydney Posts: 671	To help you out and get an idea what film is capable of, someone did some exposure tests using an incident lightmeter, so there was no second guessing what it should be. Also you can get an idea of what the film looks like when it's overexposed. Portra 400 test: Portra 400 test - a set on Flickr Ektar 100 test: Ektar 100 Test - a set on Flickr Older Portra 400NC test with up to +10 and +12 overexposure: Portra 400NC test - a set on Flickr As you can see from the tests, don't be afraid to give it more light, problems start if you don't give it enough.