The M Club!

yeatzee · 06-08-2010, 01:01 AM

Originally posted by goddo31

That normally works for me.
Did you set it to private after you linked to it?

nope
.

Marc Sabatella · 06-08-2010, 09:47 AM

The M100/2.8 almost never disappoints. Here's jazz pianist Fred Hersch, shot at f/2.8 & 1/45" on my K200D at ISO 1600:

8540tomg · 06-08-2010, 03:17 PM

Nice shot Marc. I really regret having sold my M 100/2.8.

But rather than wallow in self pity I went out with the old M 400/5.6 and managed the following shot. I know it is a sparrow but I'm not sure if it is a Song Sparrow or a Savannah Sparrow.

I suppose it doesn't really matter as I was just happy to get it in focus.

Tom G

MikeW · 06-08-2010, 04:41 PM

He's a song sparrow, right? Just a great shot. I'm impressed.

8540tomg · 06-08-2010, 06:08 PM

Thanks Mike.

I think he/she is a Song Sparrow but I'm not sure. Any ornithological opinions out there?

Tom G

jsherman999 · 06-08-2010, 06:23 PM

Originally posted by Marc Sabatella

The M100/2.8 almost never disappoints. Here's jazz pianist Fred Hersch, shot at f/2.8 & 1/45" on my K200D at ISO 1600:

Very sharp & vivid capture. The 100 2.8 is a killer lens, also wish I still had a copy.

Originally posted by 8540tomg

Nice shot Marc. I really regret having sold my M 100/2.8.

But rather than wallow in self pity I went out with the old M 400/5.6 and managed the following shot. I know it is a sparrow but I'm not sure if it is a Song Sparrow or a Savannah Sparrow.

I suppose it doesn't really matter as I was just happy to get it in focus.

Tom G

Tom! Nice one, wow.

.

8540tomg · 06-08-2010, 06:33 PM

Thanks Jay.

After a lot of trial and error and over a year I think I'm getting the hang of the old M 400/5.6.

By the way did you notice the thread you started is way over 100,000 views now?

Seems the M series is finally getting the attention and respect it deserves.

Tom G

Last edited by 8540tomg; 06-09-2010 at 03:08 AM. Reason: typo

matam · 06-09-2010, 05:37 AM

Currently i only own the M50 f1.4, i think i will never ever let go this lens away, some find it "soft" wide open, i do not agree with them (at least when i'm able to nail the focus

).

ISO 100 f1.4 1/30s

ISO 140 f4 1/500s

Handheld M50 + ~50mm extension tube @f22 1/180 w on body flash and an home made diffuser

the diffuser itself (tobacco can filled with alluminium paper and 3 layer of backing paper on the front)

8540tomg · 06-09-2010, 07:20 AM

Nice work with that M 50/1.4 matam.

Tom G

**Canada_Rockies** · 06-09-2010, 08:09 AM

Originally posted by 8540tomg

Thanks Jay.

After a lot of trial and error and over a year I think I'm getting the hang of the old M 400/5.6.

Tom, you are really a fast learner. I've had mine for about 20 years now, and I'm still trying to learn how to use it.

Quote:

By the way did you notice the thread you started is way over 100,000 views now?

Seems the M series is finally getting the attention and respect it deserves.

Tom G

Respect that is well deserved. My two M's are special purpose lenses, but I really have no desire to replace them. In both cases, manual focus is a much better tool than AF most of the time. Your sparrow shot (my vote is song sparrow, BTW) is where AF would have a conniption fit. All those branches give perfect high contrast lines to focus on. For macro, MF and CIF are the way to fly with flying bugs, and that is by far my most common use for the M100/4. I would like f/2.8 for viewing, but not at the expense of losing CIF.

jeghead1 · 06-09-2010, 11:16 PM

Hi I shoot with the m50 1.7 mostly and I still cant trust my eye in the viewfinder with a shallow dof. is there any tips you guys may have to offer it seems like 1 out of 3 shots, roughly are perfectly focused!

thanks!

Marc Sabatella · 06-10-2010, 09:06 AM

Practice on a sheet of text. Pay close attention to which lines look in focus in the viewfinder versus which lines appear in focus in the actual shot - it is unfortunately normal that more will look in focus in the viewfinder. Then work on using this information to help you "place" your subject within the focus zone. As you turn the focus ring, pay attention to whether focus is behind or in front of your subject, and get a sense of where the range is that might be in focus. If your tests with text show you that you need to have your subject toward the *front*of that zone, then make it so; similarly if your text practice shows you that you need your subject to be toward the rear of the zone, or right in the middle. On my camera, it needs to be toward the front.

Do this enough and you can get to 2 out of 3, maybe :-). Also consider buying an O-ME53 viewfinder magnifier, which helps a little (makes a a bigger difference, I find, than I'd expect given the relatively modest magnification), or if you really want to invest in MF, a split prism focus screen.

phillipb · 06-10-2010, 05:35 PM

Originally posted by Marc Sabatella

...or if you really want to invest in MF, a split prism focus screen.

I definitely agree with Marc's last suggestion. I recently picked up a Nikon variant K3 split prism focusing screen for my K-x and it's made a world of difference. My focusing is faster and more accurate as a result.

I too have the M 1.7 and having the new screen has kept it on my camera more and more.

I picked mine up from focusingscreen.com

jsherman999 · 06-10-2010, 07:02 PM

Originally posted by Marc Sabatella

Practice on a sheet of text. Pay close attention to which lines look in focus in the viewfinder versus which lines appear in focus in the actual shot - it is unfortunately normal that more will look in focus in the viewfinder. Then work on using this information to help you "place" your subject within the focus zone. As you turn the focus ring, pay attention to whether focus is behind or in front of your subject, and get a sense of where the range is that might be in focus. If your tests with text show you that you need to have your subject toward the *front*of that zone, then make it so; similarly if your text practice shows you that you need your subject to be toward the rear of the zone, or right in the middle. On my camera, it needs to be toward the front.

Do this enough and you can get to 2 out of 3, maybe :-). Also consider buying an O-ME53 viewfinder magnifier, which helps a little (makes a a bigger difference, I find, than I'd expect given the relatively modest magnification), or if you really want to invest in MF, a split prism focus screen.

.

I use a variation of this technique also.

Additionally, if your eyes aren't doing the job, try using the in-focus indicator light. Use trial & error to try to determine if there's a consistent 'spot' in the degree of focus throw the light is most accurate - right when it appears, in the middle, right before it turns off. With most lenses, this entire 'light-on' throw range will be only a couple degrees.

When all else fails, focus-bracket. Snap once at the appearance of the light, once in the middle, and once at the very end. One of those three will be tack-sharp.

.

jeghead1 · 06-11-2010, 10:05 AM

thanks i will get a focusing screen. Was it easy to install? Also I sometimes dont get the focus approval in the viewfinder. Is there a setting or something i may be missing? set to MF/AF etc.

06-08-2010, 03:17 PM	#1653
8540tomg Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Waterloo, Ontario Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,461	SMC Pentax M 400/5.6 Nice shot Marc. I really regret having sold my M 100/2.8. But rather than wallow in self pity I went out with the old M 400/5.6 and managed the following shot. I know it is a sparrow but I'm not sure if it is a Song Sparrow or a Savannah Sparrow. I suppose it doesn't really matter as I was just happy to get it in focus. Tom G Last edited by 8540tomg; 06-08-2010 at 04:53 PM. Reason: typo

06-09-2010, 05:37 AM	#1658
matam Inactive Account Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Berlin Posts: 112	Currently i only own the M50 f1.4, i think i will never ever let go this lens away, some find it "soft" wide open, i do not agree with them (at least when i'm able to nail the focus ). ISO 100 f1.4 1/30s ISO 140 f4 1/500s Handheld M50 + ~50mm extension tube @f22 1/180 w on body flash and an home made diffuser the diffuser itself (tobacco can filled with alluminium paper and 3 layer of backing paper on the front) Last edited by matam; 06-29-2010 at 08:35 AM.

06-09-2010, 11:16 PM	#1661
jeghead1 Inactive Account Join Date: May 2010 Location: Renton, Washington Posts: 35	kx tips for focus Hi I shoot with the m50 1.7 mostly and I still cant trust my eye in the viewfinder with a shallow dof. is there any tips you guys may have to offer it seems like 1 out of 3 shots, roughly are perfectly focused! thanks!

06-11-2010, 10:05 AM	#1665
jeghead1 Inactive Account Join Date: May 2010 Location: Renton, Washington Posts: 35	screen thanks i will get a focusing screen. Was it easy to install? Also I sometimes dont get the focus approval in the viewfinder. Is there a setting or something i may be missing? set to MF/AF etc.

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06-08-2010, 01:01 AM	#1651
yeatzee Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Temecula Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,675	Originally posted by goddo31 That normally works for me. Did you set it to private after you linked to it? nope .

06-08-2010, 09:47 AM	#1652
Marc Sabatella Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Denver, CO Photos: Gallery Posts: 10,685	The M100/2.8 almost never disappoints. Here's jazz pianist Fred Hersch, shot at f/2.8 & 1/45" on my K200D at ISO 1600:

06-08-2010, 04:41 PM	#1654
MikeW Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Indiana Photos: Gallery Posts: 437	He's a song sparrow, right? Just a great shot. I'm impressed.

06-08-2010, 06:08 PM	#1655
8540tomg Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Waterloo, Ontario Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,461	Thanks Mike. I think he/she is a Song Sparrow but I'm not sure. Any ornithological opinions out there? Tom G

06-08-2010, 06:23 PM	#1656
jsherman999 Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,237 Original Poster	Originally posted by Marc Sabatella The M100/2.8 almost never disappoints. Here's jazz pianist Fred Hersch, shot at f/2.8 & 1/45" on my K200D at ISO 1600: Very sharp & vivid capture. The 100 2.8 is a killer lens, also wish I still had a copy. Originally posted by 8540tomg Nice shot Marc. I really regret having sold my M 100/2.8. But rather than wallow in self pity I went out with the old M 400/5.6 and managed the following shot. I know it is a sparrow but I'm not sure if it is a Song Sparrow or a Savannah Sparrow. I suppose it doesn't really matter as I was just happy to get it in focus. Tom G Tom! Nice one, wow. .

06-08-2010, 06:33 PM	#1657
8540tomg Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Waterloo, Ontario Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,461	Thanks Jay. After a lot of trial and error and over a year I think I'm getting the hang of the old M 400/5.6. By the way did you notice the thread you started is way over 100,000 views now? Seems the M series is finally getting the attention and respect it deserves. Tom G Last edited by 8540tomg; 06-09-2010 at 03:08 AM. Reason: typo

06-09-2010, 07:20 AM	#1659
8540tomg Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Waterloo, Ontario Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,461	Nice work with that M 50/1.4 matam. Tom G

06-09-2010, 08:09 AM	#1660
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	Originally posted by 8540tomg Thanks Jay. After a lot of trial and error and over a year I think I'm getting the hang of the old M 400/5.6. Tom, you are really a fast learner. I've had mine for about 20 years now, and I'm still trying to learn how to use it. Quote: By the way did you notice the thread you started is way over 100,000 views now? Seems the M series is finally getting the attention and respect it deserves. Tom G Respect that is well deserved. My two M's are special purpose lenses, but I really have no desire to replace them. In both cases, manual focus is a much better tool than AF most of the time. Your sparrow shot (my vote is song sparrow, BTW) is where AF would have a conniption fit. All those branches give perfect high contrast lines to focus on. For macro, MF and CIF are the way to fly with flying bugs, and that is by far my most common use for the M100/4. I would like f/2.8 for viewing, but not at the expense of losing CIF.

06-10-2010, 09:06 AM	#1662
Marc Sabatella Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Denver, CO Photos: Gallery Posts: 10,685	Practice on a sheet of text. Pay close attention to which lines look in focus in the viewfinder versus which lines appear in focus in the actual shot - it is unfortunately normal that more will look in focus in the viewfinder. Then work on using this information to help you "place" your subject within the focus zone. As you turn the focus ring, pay attention to whether focus is behind or in front of your subject, and get a sense of where the range is that might be in focus. If your tests with text show you that you need to have your subject toward the frontof that zone, then make it so; similarly if your text practice shows you that you need your subject to be toward the rear of the zone, or right in the middle. On my camera, it needs to be toward the front. Do this enough and you can get to 2 out of 3, maybe :-). Also consider buying an O-ME53 viewfinder magnifier, which helps a little (makes a a bigger difference, I find, than I'd expect given the relatively modest magnification), or if you really want to invest in MF, a split prism focus screen.

06-10-2010, 05:35 PM	#1663
phillipb Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 37	Originally posted by Marc Sabatella ...or if you really want to invest in MF, a split prism focus screen. I definitely agree with Marc's last suggestion. I recently picked up a Nikon variant K3 split prism focusing screen for my K-x and it's made a world of difference. My focusing is faster and more accurate as a result. I too have the M 1.7 and having the new screen has kept it on my camera more and more. I picked mine up from focusingscreen.com

06-10-2010, 07:02 PM	#1664
jsherman999 Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,237 Original Poster	Originally posted by Marc Sabatella Practice on a sheet of text. Pay close attention to which lines look in focus in the viewfinder versus which lines appear in focus in the actual shot - it is unfortunately normal that more will look in focus in the viewfinder. Then work on using this information to help you "place" your subject within the focus zone. As you turn the focus ring, pay attention to whether focus is behind or in front of your subject, and get a sense of where the range is that might be in focus. If your tests with text show you that you need to have your subject toward the frontof that zone, then make it so; similarly if your text practice shows you that you need your subject to be toward the rear of the zone, or right in the middle. On my camera, it needs to be toward the front. Do this enough and you can get to 2 out of 3, maybe :-). Also consider buying an O-ME53 viewfinder magnifier, which helps a little (makes a a bigger difference, I find, than I'd expect given the relatively modest magnification), or if you really want to invest in MF, a split prism focus screen. . I use a variation of this technique also. Additionally, if your eyes aren't doing the job, try using the in-focus indicator light. Use trial & error to try to determine if there's a consistent 'spot' in the degree of focus throw the light is most accurate - right when it appears, in the middle, right before it turns off. With most lenses, this entire 'light-on' throw range will be only a couple degrees. When all else fails, focus-bracket. Snap once at the appearance of the light, once in the middle, and once at the very end. One of those three will be tack-sharp. .