[bsbxl]

After reading ALL messages in the Takumar Club thread and seeing many top quality pictures in it I decided tot get myself some Takumar lenses. So now I have got the SMC 55/1.8, S-M-C 35/3.5 and S-M-C 135/3.5. My genuine Pentax M42 adapter ring (ordered new from Pentax) arrived today.

When I screw in a lens, is the focus distance window supposed to be right on top? I can't screw it in far enough so that it sits in the middle on top.

I have been playing around a bit with the 55/1.8 and to get a correctly exposed image I need to dial in 2 extra stops of exposure compensation on my K200D. For the test shots I used aperture priority and set the meter tot spot metering (perhaps I should have used centre weighed metering?). I know there are other people who also have to use exposure compensation with the Takumars but isn't 2 stops a bit much? I also read in a previous thread that fellow forum member Mike Cash said that he doesn't use exposure compensation at all. Mike, if you read this, how do you do that? Thanks.

On a side note, the build quality of the Takumars is indeed top notch! The focus ring is a joy to use and the Takumars seem to be easier to focus than my M-series lenses. I am eager to discover their optical qualities now!

Bsbxl

[Bellakelpie]

Re the focus window location.
It depends upon whether your K-Mount to M42 Mount converter is a genuine Pentax one or an "After Market "clone.
On the genuine unit, the focus window will sit correctly on the top. (It does on my K-Mount Film DSLR's anyway. Haven't tried it yet on my K200D.)
My daughter has a "clone" converter. On hers bodies, the focus window sits off T-D-C.

[k100d]

i must say that i found w/ my genuine one w/ a Macro Tak 50, the focus window didn't line up. didn't seem to cause any problems.

[richard64]

When I screw in a lens, is the focus distance window supposed to be right on top? I can't screw it in far enough so that it sits in the middle on top.

That's normal. None of my Taks align correctly, they are to the right as seen from the viewfinder side, on my K100D. It is not a problem. The only issue is my SMC Takumar 55/1.8 (the one with the rubber grip) because the A/M switch is right underneath the flash carbuncle which makes it difficult to flick between Auto and Manual.

but isn't 2 stops a bit much?

I think it depends on the camera and lens. On my K100D I find that I have to use +2/3 EV for most of my Taks. For my CZJ 135/3.5 I have to use +1.5 EV. For my CZJ 35/2.4 I don't need any.

I also read in a previous thread that fellow forum member Mike Cash said that he doesn't use exposure compensation at all. Mike, if you read this, how do you do that? Thanks.

Magic, I think. And Mike does indeed produce some magical images

Richard

[Mike Cash]

No magic involved. I don't use exposure compensation on the K20D. When I was using the K100D I used it. For me that was one of the great (and unexpected) benefits of upgrading cameras....having my Takumars meter correctly. I also have Auto EV Compensation enabled in the custom menu, so maybe that has something to do with it. I've never done a test to find out.

On the K100D I used the aluminum foil fix to minimize the metering problem. For those who don't know what that is, you just tear a little strip of aluminum foil to fit across the electrical contacts on the face of the body's lens mount and tape it in place. That will let you either entirely do away with or drastically reduce the amount of EV compensation you need with M42 lenses.

I still love my K100D, but it is a dedicated K-mount shooter now. She took somewhere around 17,000 aluminum foil assisted Takumar shots,though.

[Mechan1k]

On my K10D with the Genuine Pentax M42 adaptor does not line up the focus window dead centre ... it's site just to the right when looking down on the lens ... does it wth all of my Super Taks.

[eccs19]

+1 on that here as well.

On my K10D with the Genuine Pentax M42 adaptor does not line up the focus window dead centre ... it's site just to the right when looking down on the lens ... does it wth all of my Super Taks.

[kthung]

Ive got a genuine M42 adapter and all four of my taks line up correctly.

[Stratman]

Mine lines up a little to the right side also, but doesn't affect anything negatively at all...

Here is my K10D with the Super Tak 55 1.8 mounted, you can see that it is a bit off center, but that's just the way it is with all 4 of my Takumars..

[Andi Lo]

Mike, I assume the foil can be taped on the lens instead? I still use my DA lenses quite a bit. Would like to use taks more once I get a 28 and 135 though.

[newarts]

Mike, I assume the foil can be taped on the lens instead? I still use my DA lenses quite a bit. Would like to use taks more once I get a 28 and 135 though.

I prefer just sanding black paint off the m42 lens base at the contact location (if the base overlaps the contacts at all.) It can be "repainted" later with a black magic marker if desired.

Most of us short all the contacts but only the 5th from the bottom of the 7 contacts actually need be shorted. I can't think of a reason not to short it permanently, but see no easy way to do it.

It doesn't matter if the window is at the top of the mounted lens. What matters is that the m42 lens base seat flush against the camera's flange surface. That's what insures infinity focus. Because of that, be careful using tape to mount aluminum foil as its thickness might mess up focus at infinity. Aluminum foil is usually only about 5/10,000 inch thick - tapes are typically thicker.

Dave

PS you might consider adding an m42 adapter to each of your taks. That will minimize fooling around when you change lenses. You can do it later when you get more taks.